As much as I love my '84 Trans Am, the faded/cracked paint is really doing it an injustice. So, after pulling one small dent, I'm going to begin sanding, priming and painting it. However, never having done this before, I'm a little uncertain as to a few things:

How much paint overall will it take to do a full paint job on the car? I'm planning on doing things right, and applying probably a good 3 coats. I'm planning on doing a two-tone paint job: black with silver or platinum ground effects. Also, I'm assuming you have to mix it, similar to airbrushing? What is the typical mix ratio? Any other painting information/suggestions are welcome too. I've read the sticky thread by jay_d on the painting process, which is a great resource, but if there's any other suggested reading, I'm all for it.

Now on to the next question: I need to replace the seals for my t-tops, as the original ones are pretty much shot. However, I don't want to replace the seals until the car is repainted. Is there a temporary solution that could be used for the next month or two to prevent leaking? (I don't have reliable covered parking at the moment)

And, since it just popped in my head: does anyone know where a good place to buy paint in the greater Seattle area would be? Been doing some searching, but nothing beats a good recommendation.

 

Bump.

 

well i do have an idea. they use this stuff in boating. it is supposed to be a masking tape that will provide a waterproof seal but comes back off easily and isint supposed to tear the finish up. I havent used it personally but if you were to seal it up with this i dont think it would cause major damage. But remember your t tops ride on thos rubber seals. dont yank thos out to paint untill you have seals to replace them with. or atleast save enough of the old seals for the t tops to sit properly on

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/..._source=google

 

If you are doing a solid color. You can do it single stage. Metallics I would do base coat/clear coat. You will need a gallon of each for the entire car. Plus associated reducer, hardner or other liquids. Just depends on the mfg. The same for the mixing ratio...depends on brand and what line you choose. Stay with the same mfg. for all liquids.

 

So basically, 1 coat = 1 gallon of paint? I'm planning to paint it a non-metallic black, since that's the color it was originally (although I'm debating maybe a pearl black color, just to flash it up a bit), but I'm planning at least 2, if not 3 coats of color, as well as clear coat. Needless to say, it would be pretty lame if I found out that I hadn't ordered enough paint and still had half a car left.

I'm guessing the whole process will take about 3 weekends: 1 to sand/prime, 1 to paint and clear coat the removed hood, bumper covers, etc. and the third weekend to paint and clear coat the body. Is this a reasonable estimate? This is all new to me, so I'm still getting a feel for what to expect.

TorqueWolf, thanks for the info... I'll check into a local boating shop here (one of the great things about living in a port city) and see if I can pick some up.

 

1 gallon should equal about 3 coats. You can buff single stage, to a deep shine just like clear coat. Plus a lot of people think clear over black makes it appear milky...another benefit is in the future. If you need to repair or re-shoot an area. Single stage is lots easier than base coat / clear coat. I've painted plenty of cars with clear. It is VERY easy to run the clear. You don't see it as well as a color coat going on. If you have never painted before. I would stay away from metallic. You REALLY need experience to spray it. Or you will wind up with a car that looks like a zebra.

Here is my suggestion. Get 1 qt. of whatever you decide to try. Metallic, base coat / clear coat, or single stage. If you decide to go with clear. You will need a qt. of it and the associated liquids. Spray your hood and see how it turns out. Then you can decide on how to do the rest of the car.