ZZ3Astro

I figured I'd start a thread to show the before, during and after pics of my Iroc's repaint. In the interest of time, I decided to just pay someone to do it the right way. I was going to do the body work myself, but I don't have all of the fancy tools to properly deal with the type of damage my car has. Almost all of it is on sharp body lines. Also I'm too busy with my job right now and car show season is approaching rapidly. I was told to expect it back around the first week of March (three weeks). My experience with body shops this year generally leads me to think at least mid-march!

I delivered the car to the today. I will be visiting frequently to document their progress. The cost of the job is $3700 + a new windshield, ttop seals, dew wipes, iroc and ground effect border stickers, and the emblems. I could also use door seals for cosmetic value, but the existing ones seal fine.

Here are a few pics of the problems in the exisiting paint. This car had a repaint about 15 years ago (before I owned it) and it was not well done as you will see below!


Lack of flex additive on nose paint is obvious. Lower ground effect removed because I had to take the nose off to remove the cold side tubing and intercooler.





Dry overspray on door sill surfaces.


Worst of the dry overspray - except for the rear hatch channel area near the hinges.


Remaining damage from bank post down side of car (was woman owned ). This is after my amateur PDR work. It is 300x better than when I got the car.


Poor surface prep - paint bubbling/releasing on this quarter in several spots


Tape line very evident at edge of opening. Some dry overspray.




The front left fender has some very poor body work but it isn't obvious in photos so I will leave that out. Wasn't bad damage but there are DA marks in it so they were using a contaminated sanding disk on the primer.. then painted over that!

I've asked them to give me a 1987 appearing factory paint job. I doubt they'll quite make it there. Modern paints in typical hands just don't leave a glass smooth base coat. You have to find a real expert and need more money than I have to spend. Anyway, hoping it will turn out pretty decent. I'll post more pics as they come in!

ZZ3Astro

The worst damage on the car came in the form of a hit and run sideswiping that happened last year. I was parallel parked downtown at "friday fest" - a monthly car show none-the-less! To make it even better, the color of the criminal's car is light blue like you see on old 50's cars. This is after extensive PDR work and I touched up the paint where it was scraped down to metal.


Driver door and front part of the rear quarter. Reflection shows some low areas here and a couple of dings.

In these pics you'll also notice the IROC-Z stickers are positioned too low. As well, there should be a two tone stripe but they elected to use a single silver pin-stripe. All of this will be done correctly this time.
More to come

U.S.Marine09

cant wait to see i love black camaros

Sonymaster20

iTrader: (3)

You can actually get a very good paint job out of modern paints, and for $3700, I would expect nothing much less then perfect. Also if the clear doesnt come out all that great you can always wetsand and buff it.

ZZ3Astro

Well it's the base coat that seems to have the texture.. for example a brand new Z06 will have a glass smooth clear coat but look close at reflections and the base coat has a texture. Same with my truck, both the original paint and the repaint.

ZZ3Astro

So things went south with the paint shop.. waaaay south. I no longer trust any paint and body shop after the things I've dealt with in the past six months. See my other thread for details.

I'm going to use this thread to show the progress as I attempt to do the prep work myself. I will then bring it to my friend's paint booth where another friend that is good with base clear will do the paint. I will probably shoot the ground effects myself but leave the big panels to him. When we paint my wife's Monte SS maybe I'll shoot some of that.

This is my first time doing final body work & prep. I've worked with bondo before and I do some PDR (as a hobby) but most of this is a learning experience for me. I might even give up half way through, like I wanted to today!

Lots of work so far. Not fun sanding with the DA though.. spent a lot of the day on panels and didn't get as far as I'd hoped.

Work as of Saturday 2-19-11:


Also found some bondo work on the middle and rear part of the front fender. Note bondo under where the door strike moulding was ground off. Might consider replacing this fender.


In addition to the beating the car took at the body shop, I found old damage on forward part of the quarter panel. It has about 20 holes from the old school drill style puller and a pretty thick layer of bondo. I ground that off and will try to bring that metal out a bit too.


Got a start on the right side.. note test patch on door showing previous repaint


Pile 'O parts

ZZ3Astro

Today was another long day of working on the Iroc. After doing a ton of sanding on the passenger side and hood, we took most of the interior out. I'm putting in new carpet up in the passenger area and hopefully re-doing or replacing the seats as well. Since most of the panels were out anyway it seemed easier to just mask the dashboard and not having to worry about anything else getting paint on it. This is especially convenient since we're paint all of the door sills and edges as well as the rear hatch valled and ttop gasket channels.


DA all day


Keeping the wife busy removing stickers and stripes.


Interior almost stripped. Tomorrow night I'll get the center console out and the passenger area carpet. Rear carpet in good shape so is covered in plastic. Ttop channels in good shape with a little surface rust on the passenger side center.


At the end of a long day, quite a bit has been accomplished.. especially since I took a long break and went out for a while.

Today was a day of doubting.. it's really a big project now and I'm on a timeline of only six weeks.. from today it needs to be completely done in 6.5 weeks if I'm going to make the Grand Rod Run in April. Everything depends on how the body work goes.. feeling a bit overwhelmed right now. One thing is for sure though - I'm sleeping really good because this keeps me worn out. Also it keeps my mind off the news, which is usually depressing to see these days! Forward we march!

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Well, I hope you have a stock of your favorite pain reliever!! LOL !!
My Bride & I did the prep on ours. DA, sanding blocks, time, time, time...

The only thing I can say is
be careful when you do the plastic // rubber sanding. I don't recall what grit I used, but there are sanding swirls in our bumper cover!!! Can't see it from 5 ft, but to " look " at it, it's painfully evident!! Maybe should have used a super-fine scotch brite???

My Bride & I wish you patience, & looking forward to seeing another
( Husband & Wife ?? ) project done!! LOL

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt use any sandpaper on the bumper cover. Use "Aircraft stripper" and then sand lightly with a scotchbright pad. Then spray etching primer with flex agent. Do this on chin spoiler and rear cover as well. Lookin good!

U.S.Marine09

haha so jealous i would not have the patience for that

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

just a lil observation, etching primer is more for bare metal OP should use plastic primer , its a b**ch to sand down but its the best thing to use on plastics.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I have used both plastic primer and etching primer on my bumper covers with mixed results. The plastic primer, I found required a lot more surface prep. (I painted the rear cover of my RS 4 times with plastic primer before just adding flex to etching primer) We used to do this a lot at the body shop I worked for back then. Etching primer is just my personal preferance based on my experiences.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

humm!!! u never stop learning!!!,

i will have to try that!

ZZ3Astro

Monday was take a break day. Only thing I worked on was the tbar removal. I was suprised to find no rust under it! The tbar support has the usual rust in the seams but nothing bad enough to merit replacing it at this time. Still waiting on my weld puller to ship (

89rs358

why are you making such a big deal over the paint shops screw up on the dent, its an opportunity!!! just put one of those giant car bandaids on it when your done with the paint, thats almost as cool as a racing stripe, heck if you cut a few holes in the fender first it will lighten the car, thats like... 50hp extra duh

LOL jk looks awsome so far!

http://fastsigns2542highlander.wordp...009/07/30/311/

ZZ3Astro

LOL yeah - believe me I considered (very briefly!) leaving the body work and finishing the rest of the car.. then putting a big sign on the back window with an arrow.

Update for Tuesday:

Long work day and some bad news. The DF-505ii is on back order for two weeks. It also turns out it was a drop ship item, so even though I was ordering from Tx expecting 2 day ground to Florida, it ships from California. The week seemed spoiled until I found the DF-505i for only about $50 more and in stock in Louisiana. Now we'll see if they come thru or not. This puts me a week behind on sheet metal work unless it shows up on Friday.

Tonight I tore down the center console and removed the carpet. A good bit of floorboard rust in the two front floor pans. It's only where the carpet touches the metal. I expected some rust here as its the only place on the car where there is rust through. Mostly surface rust thankfully. Found a good $5 in 60s-70s-80s quarters and nickels! Also did a little more DA work around the ttop and windshield areas.

3rdgenfever

so what happened with the body shop did you try and get some of your money back. lookin good and cant wait to see the final product. regarding plastic......also just an observation and to inform you, etch primer's main purpose is corrosion protection for bare metal and to promote adhesion for the coming layers of paint. using it on plastic anything is a waste of paint and time, just my personal opinion and fact..but if it works for some don't let me stop you. also using a DA with some 400 grit wont hurt anything at all and will save time. get some adhesion promoter in an aerosol can and spray anything that got down to pure plastic before layering primer on to prevent lifting (read directions on dry time and amount of coats). been doing it that way for a long time. also i never add flex agent and have never had a problem. good luck man

ZZ3Astro

The body shop won't return my calls. I asked for the owner to contact me (he was conveniently out of town until last Friday). I've since heard from several people that he is a *****. Ultimately it cost me $370.

There was some benefit out of what they did - they applied filler to several spots and the filler you see on the nose. They were surprisingly gentle with the parts and I only found a few problems caused by them, including one stripped stud on the hatch mounted 'wing'.

All I can do is tell my story to everyone I know. The bottom line is they shortcut by avoiding metal work and using bondo to compensate. It works for the masses. Most people are only concerned that it looks pretty good when they get it back. Modern techniques are out there to do it better though, and that's what I expected for the price I was paying.

Here is another cool tool for doing it better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL4IMy8t2-k

ZZ3Astro

Wow, wow, wow and WOW! LOL.. I got my DF-505 in today. Really loving this thing right out of the box. A friend volunteered his Jeep as our first victim. He had a really bad crease dent up front. I'm really impressed with this tool so far. It took about an hour and a half, during which we were pretty much lost as to the methods we should have been using. If I had to do it over with what I learned tonight, I could have done it in 20 minutes. We have just a bit more work to do before it is ready for body filler and priming.

It went so well that I went ahead and pulled the passenger side door where the door strike moulding went down a bank post and pushed a low spot under it. The metal on the Iroc felt about 1/3rd as stiff/thick as the Jeep and it only took me about 5 minutes.

This is my first work with it.. not quite done, but certainly looks a lot better already!

ZZ3Astro

Worked on the rear quarter side swipe area today with the DF-505. Very pleased with the progress I made in only a few hours:


Note the silver areas are high spots created by the fired body shop


The 'Claw' that comes with the DF-505 in action with wiggle-wire on the panel. The was only one step in the job. Plenty of hammer pulling and knocking down highs as well.


Restored body line. I have to go back over this tomorrow and work on any high/low spots. Line came out nice and straight even though the photo might not show it.

the solitaire

Looks like an impressive tool so far.
I wish you luck in repairing what was messed up however.

Main difficulty I see in that rear quarter panel is if you´d want the sheet metal done up perfectly, you´d have to shave the marks off. That would take off so much of the sheet metal however that it needs reinforcement at the back side of it.

1b rock

im not for sure what is a average price for a full on paint job in your area but it will cost at least 750 in material and more like 4000 plus for a quality job that goin to last thats if you take all the moldings handles, bumpers and etc off around here..... and most peaple wont touch an older car anymore just want the insurance jobs just my experience if you have any questions about painting your car dont hesitate to ask ive been doin bodywork for a long time glad to help gona start on my iroc this summer building my new shop now brandon

1b rock

heres some pics of my buddys truck i painted for his dad last year



then he hit a deer and an ambulance that almost made me cry

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Actually the wiggle wire and studs just break off with minimal work to be done to the panel afterward. I usually use a mini angle grinder with a fine grit roloc pad to clean up what little there is on the surface. Looks really nice so far! I've had jeeps for many years and in a land (AZ) where there are more rocks than trees, you end up doing lots of repairs on them! That repair you did on your buddys YJ (Wrangler) Looks pretty good! Thats a tough area to repair because there is a curve and a bodyline in the same area.

ZZ3Astro

Thanks.. that jeep metal is pretty hard and it was definitely a tough spot for our first effort. We weren't going for perfection on that one but it turned out pretty nice. I think he said the biggest problem is the paint he bought didn't really match but otherwise looks decent.

I moved on from the DF-505 to body filler tonight. I went back over the videos I shot and realized I've actually done quite a bit of work with it. I was having so much fun I didn't realize how much time went by. I've learned a lot this weekend.

For anyone interested in seeing how I'm doing the repairs, I'm uploading a whole series of videos. As of tonight I've got 7 videos but only 5 are uploaded so far. As I upload additional videos I'll try to link them together at the ends:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiGB6tqR_10 Video 1 - next linked at end of first video

This is my first body filler effort. Tomorrow I'll do some more. Filler is Rage Gold.



Oh and my wife caught this cool shot when I hit a contaminated spot:

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Looks really cool! That would make a really cool Avatar pic!

ZZ3Astro

Update... body filler sucks to work with! Not much further along (cosmetically) than I was in the last quarter panel pic.. But I'm on about the 5th or 6th pass of body filler. Progress is measured in inches this week. This fender flare is a very complex area to work with for someone who's never done it before. I think I'm finally getting close to getting it smooth but there are still some concerns. At least I'm ahead of schedule but at this rate I'll be behind by this weekend.

Tobias05

Keep up the great work!

ZZ3Astro

Just about done with the fender flare on the left quarter panel. Just a little bit more filling and sanding and I'm done with this area. Everything else on the car is 'easy' body filler work.

89rs358

looks great! going to be a bad *** when your done!

TheMuskr

looks like a fun project!

znate

great job so far hope to see it at the Grand Rod Run! i love that car show try to go every year atleast 1 of the 2.

ZZ3Astro

Lots of things to update on. I got my seat upholesty in from Hawks. I'm not really happy with them. I knew the fabric wouldn't be the same, but it's not even in the same class. I feel like I bought some old Grand Am seats. To add insult to injury, the color isn't in the same class either. I was not expecting to be in love with them anyway but I also didnt expect to be so disappointed. The build quality seems nice so far, but I can't imagine why they would put all of this effort into making them and use such cheesy looking fabric. There must be something more like the Oem than velvet looking crap! Now that this subject is out of the way...

Starting to get short on time and progress. In an effort to stay on schedule, I got started with some other areas. The windshield post had a high spot on it (from factory) so I knocked that down. Removed headlight harness and other driver side underhood harnesses/equipment and started prepping the wheel well. Passenger side will be worked on tomorrow. Wife sanded all of the core support/headlight areas and started on the wells. Meanwhile I blocked more of the driver side. Wife finished blocking the hood after I filled some lows.

Today I felt very frustrated with the body filler. I keep finding problems after I get everything 'perfect'. No matter how many times you work and make it perfect, there will always be more problems. Learning from my mistakes though. Should I ever get stupid again and decide I want to paint another car, at least I'll know the things that result in pain LOL.

Tomorrow there will be primer in the air! Hopefully it is pointed at the Iroc. I was originally planning to just spot primer in the repaired areas, then block it and then prime the whole car. Instead, I think I'm just going to prime entire panels at a time. Any highs or lows will show up in the dry blocking and it will be easier to deal with on a solid color for a change. Plus I'll feel a lot better to see a major change to the car, after three weeks of hard work with rather intangible results.


The (hopefully) final application of body filler awaits sanding at the rear of the door and below the gas cap.


Cruise control and headlight harness + horns and fuel lines moved out of way for prep and painting. Surface rust from washer jug rubbing paint off was dealt with tonight.

ZZ3Astro

Worked on it all day today. Did *not* get any primer sprayed but I might skip work for tomorrow morning and try priming the driver side. I finished up all driver side bondo work. The hood is blocked out and ready to prime on top. Hood sides and underneat are almost ready as well. Fender wells need a bit more sanding and I'm going to put some body filler where the pits are from the surface rust which we treated. Finally put some body filler on the passenger side so I'm finally making some progress. Also figured out that I could relocate the entire passenger side wiring harness + batt cable through the inside of the pass fender (over the wheel well plastic above the tire). This really cleans up the bay nicely. I disconnected my MSD 6AL and put my bypass harness in for now. It should look much nicer when this is all done. I have two weeks to prime & block the car, ground effects and nose/rear bumper covers. It has to go in the paint booth the last week or March and I must have it back by the first or second of April. That gives me 10 days to put the whole car back together, or my trip to the Grand Rod Run will be sans Iroc.


Fender well is D-O-N-E!! Well, ready for priming at least. Blue tape indicated slight lows which were later filled.


Passenger side initial blocking out is done. I spent the morning knocking down high spots on the rear part of the door. Got it leveled out nicely (I hope) and put the first layer of body filler on it next.


First layer on body filler on. Started blocking the front part. Note the high points from the pulls. Door is otherwise glass smooth according to blocking results.


In addition to the stock wiring harness, I ran the battery relocate alongside until I had time to run it directly to the starter. I will be dealing with that and the rest of the wiring will come out through the hole just behind the MSD box at the lower right.


Look how much cleaner it is already! Wheel wells will be painted nice and shiny black. Intercooler and cold air piping will cover up most of the wiring when it's all done. Looking forward to this new layout!

toomany

Keep up the good work! I know how much time and effort goes into preping a car for paint. I'm currently neck deep into a full restoration of an 82 Z28, got it down to only the shell and starting body work. The one nice thing about body work is...if you don't like it sand it off and start again.

ZZ3Astro

I was trying to keep track of time but it kind of got lost in the rush. It took me longer to do the bondo work on the rear quarter than I expected. Some of that was a learning curve. Once I finished that part over the area I pulled, things have gone pretty quickly with blocking and priming. I'm on track to complete this project in time, if you don't count the nose prep. Still not sure if I'm going to tackle that or have a shop finish it.


Driver side first primer coat is on and blocked. Low spots filled and reprimed. Just need to block those areas and its ready for the final primer coat and wet blocking.


Since the car was outside I was going to prime the hatch area and roof last night, but dew settled while I was eating dinner. Instead I focused on masking off the engine area for priming and painting. I'm going to paint this area myself so it can be driven onto the trailer to the painting location. I think. Otherwise will have to remove my wife's Christmas paper. Maybe not a bad idea anyway LOL. Of course after this project we won't have money for gifts this year anyway.

ZZ3Astro

A little more progress today. Got the hood off, finished masking the engine area and got it primed, along with the T-Bar and seal channels. Also the hatch seal channel and roof/windshield posts. Still learning this priming thing but starting to get it figured out. I need to have the whole car in final primer coat by Monday, so it can cure for a few days before I do the final blocking next weekend. Then off to the paint booth I hope.


This is how my spot weld pulled quarter ended up looking with some primer on it.


I can't wait to see this area with the base/clear on it!

znate

Looks good cant wait to c it at ROD RUN!!

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

That is looking good! Patience is the key, and it looks like you've got it! Spray a guide-coat, sand, and send it to paint.

ZZ3Astro

I sure hope I can get it done by the rod run. I'm going either way, in fact we're staying an extra day now to check out pigeon forge and knoxville because we might move up that way in a couple of years.

Worked *all* day long on it today. I fixed the low areas on the roof, treated the rust area on the front passenger floor board, blocked out the nose, blocked out the hood a second time (pre-primer), body filler on the passenger door, sprayed a guide coat on the driver side primer and my wife spent the day blocking all of the ground effects, wing and mirrors. The end result was the car didn't really look much different but I'm almost ready to prime the last part of the body - the passenger side. The hood and nose are ready to prime, as will be the ground effects and other parts my wife worked on. By lunchtime tomorrow, everything will have primer on it!


Guide coat will tell me how well I did.. uhg more sanding!


I had to block out the hood because some drops from a tree got on it while it was sitting in the driveway. It worked out good because now its even flatter. For the nose, I used 240 grit in a DA to break down the filler in the headlight bucket. The poly filler is not fun to sand at all. Afterwards I blocked everything at 320. Pretty sure this is going to come out looking decent, since the shop had already put some work into this part. Still took me a good hour and a half to get to this point.


Passenger side should be ready in the morning. I hope. Getting tired of putting filler on, then sanding it mostly off. Then more filler! I got the rear quarter finished today. Just gotta get the middle part of the door happy and it's primer city!

Tobias05

Who's Jealous?

...this guy.

Coming along nicely!

Wish my car looked like your BEFORE pictures, lol...

ZZ3Astro

Thanks.. it was a tough decision in some ways, especially doing it myself. That first DA pass was difficult. Two weeks later I'm thinking to myself, jeez you just ruined a perfectly decent looking car LOL. Had I not been sideswiped on the driver side, I might have waited a bit longer to do this.. but once I couldn't put "a good side out" the decision was made. I'm still sitting here wondering how I'm going to get this done in time. We have relatives coming tomorrow. I'm swamped with work this coming week. Guess we'll see what happens..

ZZ3Astro

Behind once again.. however it looks like next weekend would be paint day if my friend shoots it, since the body shop hasn't called back to give me a price. This buys me about 4 extra days because I was gonna get it to the paint shop next Monday. Also since I am working on getting the engine bay back together, including the intercooler and tubing, I pick up an extra free day that would have been used up after the paint job. So the way I see it, I'm about 2 days ahead of schedule.

So today I spent all day collecting supplies to base-clear the engine bay, radiatior support and door jambs. I did some blocking this morning but most of the day was spent on the painting. My first time shooting base/clear (or any other paint for that matter). Of course it got dark on me right in the middle of the session, so who knows what I'll find in the daylight in the morning! However it looks pretty dang awesome tonight. Not perfect, but nice enough to make my engine look - - old and dirty!

Was disappointed to find pretty high costs for this little sideshow. I spent $270. This got me 2 quarts of black and 1 quart of clear (mid grade stuff since it's not exposed to sunlight), an extra gallon of primer, various activators, reducers and some cleanup supplies. So over the next few days I will get the car blocked, reprimed and blocked again, then wet sanded, Also putting the hood back on and cutting in the door jambs, inside parts of the doors, bottom of the hood and hood hinges.


Got three layers of basecoat on.. awaiting clear.


Closeup pre-clear coat


Cleared!


Dusty dirty engine

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Looks good! You are going to have to get that engine cleaned up now, for sure!

ZZ3Astro

Worked on it all day Friday. I'm not really sure what was accomplished. Most of the work went into further blocking and low spot filling all over the car. I also mounted up my MSD box and part of the intercooler tubing, as well as welding caps on the square tubing support brackets for the intercooler. Re-routed wiring on the passenger side engine bay as planned. Much cleaner looking now. Everything is covered in sanding dust once again, but will wash it all soon enough.

After breakfast this morning, the car is completely ready for the full second coat of primer. I do need to put some filler on one mirror, one spot on the nose and the T-Bar piece which became a victim of the lid of my tool box (closed while moving tool box, which the t-bar cover was laying on top of the open box!)


Wash me!! Already :-O


I enjoy working with the tig more than anything else on this project.

znate

looks real good hope i get to c it at rod run we are planning on staying friday night through sunday! good luck hope to c it there!

ZZ3Astro

Thanks... so do I! I'm gonna stay till Tues morning now. Just hoping the Iroc will be with me. If so we'll have to meet up somewhere and make a mini Third Gen car show. I'm gonna be staying down in Gatlinburg.

ZZ3Astro

Another full day of work. What should have taken half a day, as usual, consumed the whole day. It seems like you just have to give up and some point and move forward regardless of small imperfections. I'm not going for show car quality anyway but jeez.. it could easily take six months to do this right.


Finally got the caps finished on the intercooler supports and painted them. Only did one coat of base on them because I forgot all about them till I was on the last bit of paint.


Painted the hood hinged, latch assy and T-Bar. I was gonna flat black the Tbar but thought I'd try base clear first.


Hood cut-in is all done (yes I masked the labels). New insulation blanket on the way this week.


More painting in the dark. I have some new halogen lights but this black is just too dark to paint with at home. Need a well lit paint booth. Turned out ok. Runs on both sides on the rear vertical part of the door sills. No big deal but on the passenger side i realized I got too thin with the base in the same area as the run.. so I will sand out the run, shoot one more coat of base and re-clear it tomorrow night.


I went ahead and cut-in the hatch seal valley. This will let the painter focus on getting the panels perfect and not have to go spraying into places where debris likes to hide. Tomorrow night I will also shoot the ttop seal areas for the same reason.

Next up... Tuesday night starts final wet sanding of everything. Also the front ground effect is a mess. It had cracks all in the paint and two cans of stripper were useless. Now I'm trying to DA it and that seems to be working somewhat. Should be finished up by Thursday and ready for paint except maybe that front thing.

znate

i wont get to bring mine doin a t5 swap in the 88 and the 87 i am doin like you strip and repaint not black but yellow. sad i know but good times will be had anyway and hope to find some good parts cheap lol!!

calamitascamaro

iTrader: (5)

When you respray the sill, dont go too heavy with base, or it will react with your fresh clear and wrinkle. You dont want that as wrinkling spreads like cancer.