project89

iTrader: (1)

i already have the metalic blue and sliver paint for the car but since winter is just about here and i plan on driving the car threw the winter i didnt want salt on the fresh paint .i decided to do the ultimate budget paint job on it till the summer/springtime.

total cost is about 60 bucks for the whole car

the paint im using is rustoleum in a can mixed 1:1 with pure mineral spirits and applied with a high density foam roller.

most ppl need about 6 coats to cover good and if done right u cant tell the difference of it being rustoleum vs automotive paint

these were shot after the first coat with no wetsanding or buffing, though i need to hit it with a 1500grit wetsand before i put the next coat on which will be in about 2 hours.

if done right the paint will have a mirror like shine, this is my first time trying thi and i was skeptical about doing it but i figured for 50 bucks why not give it a shot. the paint is deffintly glossy as u can see below

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

wish you had a better picture, but it looks good from what I can see.

project89

iTrader: (1)

alls i have to take pics atm is my cellphone, im also painting the hood on my enclosed porch which dosent have good light, tommorow when i get off work if the weather is good i will put the hood back on the car and take pics in the sunlight.

i will say i am amazed at how easy this is to do and the paint looks good in person except for the dust dirt i got in the first coat of paint since i forgot to close the heater vent on my front porch when i started, but it will all wetsand out of the paint before i do the next coat

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Looks good! I love reading these threads. My camaro needs a paint job, and I can't afford a shop to do it. Right now anyway...

project89

iTrader: (1)

sanded the first 2 coats just now, and found out a few things
#1 i didnt have the paint thin enough so it didnt self level all that good had a bunch of orange peel,

so i hit it with some 600 grit wet paper then hit it with 1000 grit wet paper before i started the next coat

this last coat i just put on i mixed so it was like water, went on alot nicer though alot thiner, but the paint is leveling out nicely, and is almost as flat as a piece of glass im sure it will flatten out more as it dries i just put it on in the last few mins.
soon as it tacks up a bit ill take some pics.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

When I did the rustoleum paint job I started from a thinner mixture to a thicker one, five applications total. Used a blow dryer during applications to remove any bubbles as I rolled it on. Wet sanded the orange peel down between applications once dried, hit it with some mineral spirits, then wiped it down with a tack cloth before the next application was applied. After the last (fifth) application was applied, I didn't wet sand it after it dried, I then applied the clear coat. Wet sanded the clear coat down to remove the final orange peel, then hit it with Mequiar's Ulitmate Compound and buffed the hell out of it. Came out like a mirror...

project89

iTrader: (1)

this thin thin coat i just put on layed down really flat it has almost no orange peel at all. i just took some pics soon as i resize them ill get them posted, it alreadys has a really nice shine to it, cant wait to see what it looks like after a final wetsand and buff, i may go out and get some super gloss black though instead of the blue

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is after the first wetsand and recoat,no wetsanding or polishing on the recoat in the pics yet




going to apply another light coat tongiht and then wetsand it after work tommorow

zenish

thats pretty close to the color my car was before it faded.

puma1552

iTrader: (1)

...

streetpro

I think that came out pretty nice,good job

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

When do you plan on having the rest of the car done? It is looking good so far!

58mark

iTrader: (3)

before you start sanding, make sure you wait a LONG time to let the paint cure. Enamel paint, especially brushed on, will be thick and uneven. real block Sanding will cause a nightmare to get out all of those surface imperfections I see.

Can't say I'm a fan so far. I see a lot of orange peel and waves in the reflection, and Some major surface scratches in the body. (fist pic of post 8) Looks like some more prep was needed, or it's just going to look like a half ___ job.

I'm also not sure the enamel will retain the shine. It's not going to be worth it if you have to rebuff it ever couple of months, and if you don't rebuff it, it will look like crap.

any paint job, even rattle can, can look good for a while. It's the upkeep that you pay for in the long run by using a cheap paint.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Here is the right way w/the rustoleum paint job...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRV3CSeQonY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvODd7aWy5s

58mark

iTrader: (3)

here's a third gen in sail blue... it does look nice.. the guy probably used a compressor, lots of sanding, and a buffer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-1q8...eature=related

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dave, did you consider metal flake at all w/the mix at any point in time...?

58mark

iTrader: (3)

that would have been sweet, but if you are sanding and buffing without clear, it's hard to pull off

torque_is_good

it looks like it needs more sanding and another go at it. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. it's not going to look like a professional job but probably better than what it was.

I prepped and prepped, sprayed my primer, sanded, sealed, spayed my first coat, sprayed my 2nd coat, went inside, came back out and cried looking at all the love bugs that were stuck to my paint.

They were nowhere to be found when I began spraying. It's not just the rustoleum guys who sometimes have to re-sand and respray(re-roll)......ugghhh

project89

iTrader: (1)

the orange peel wetsands right off, all the sanding scratches are also gone, i got 4 more caots on it last night, need to let the paint sit for a few days now to harden good before i do the final 1500/2000 grit wetsand on it and polish.

this paint only has to last me about 5 months before i stip it off and the car goes for real paint

rob u cant use flake on a roll on paint job the flake wont roll out evenly unfortunatly

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Sure you can, you just need to apply a few coats of clear coat over it otherwise you will pull them right back off without the clear when you wet sand and buff. I've done it on a friend's GSXR, however it might be a little more involved with a much wider area to cover though, that is for sure, but still doable. What are your plans when it comes to painting the unibody (doing it outside in the elements )...?

project89

iTrader: (1)

Gettinvg some pvc poles tarp and a bullet heater today after work. And going to start the roof

zenish

that videos too blurry to tell much.

deadbird

You should have rolled on a sealer (ppg ncs2008, for eg) then. You'd days ahead on labor wasted trying to get that garbage back off.

haps

iTrader: (4)

Please update this thread when you've spent $300 on materials to strip this crap off or the quote from a body shop for $1700 to strip it...either one will do.

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

you wouldve been a lot better off just having it painted and spent the 50.00 bucks on cleaning supplies to wash the salt off as needed. salt is only bad if you leave it on there...less time then resanding the whole thing back down.

91 Droptop

I was just going to say that, if your going to paint it in the spring you should have left it alone. You have created a nightmare to have that paint removed, you cannot just scuff it and paint over it.

Sorry I am no fan of the roller system on a car, get a compressor and a gun and do it right. Sorry to be harsh but this is going to be a mess for you when you go to strip it.

58mark

iTrader: (3)

I thought my rattle can job was a nice temporary job, but the worst part about it was getting it all off.... nothing clogs a sheet of sandpaper faster...

I decided it was easier to replace my hood than to try to sand it down

project89

iTrader: (1)

i was told on another forum that i could have rolled on an epoxy primer or sealer, which i didnt know before hand otherwise i would have done that.

as of right now just the hood is done, im going to let it harden over the next 2 days then wetsand and buff it over the weekend.once thats done ill decide wether im going to strip it off and epoxy prime the car or finish the rustoleuom.ive also decided now that the hood is on the car that i dont like the color so if i do finish off the car with rustoleum i will prolly get a gallon of super gloss black

i know i have to strip the car again before its painted but that dosent bother me, i dont mind the labor or work

but based on how the hood is comming out i would not heasatate to do this kind of paint job on a few hundred $ beater car at all

project89

iTrader: (1)

i agree but thats what soda blasters r for more then likley when i goto strip the car i will soda blast the body

58mark

iTrader: (3)

well if you've got one I guess that's an option.. I wasn't sure how strippers and blasting would effect the filler I already put on, and didn't want to re-do it

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Bingo...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_2-es8uXUU

deadbird

Stop now regardless of outcome if you're going to repaint.

2 days... try weeks minimum. Even automotive enamel doesn't full cure for at least a month. Sand and polish now, it will keep shrinking and gain peel again as it cures.

Rustoleum is oil based enamel (in can form usually). no hardener. no acrylic. that's why it clogs paper. it's not an acrylic (plastic) based paint.when you over reduce it, it simply worsens holdout/durability.

I'm not harassing but, stop now. sealer, even rolled on, can sill be sanded and top coated down the road while protecting until you do paint

it seems so fruitless to turn showcar labor into half-ss results

project89

iTrader: (1)

would just a polish with a buffing machine harm it if i waited a few days?
id liek to atleast finish the hood this way if i decide not to continue with the paint some of the other members considering this paint job can see some results of a finished panel


anyways i may as well post this here too, since i didnt do anything with the hood today other then mount it back on the car i took the time to finish up my electrical wiring and took a small vid of the car running. the sound aint the greatest cause it was taken with my cell phone but its not real bad either


been having troubl tunning my acceleration enrichments but im getting it closer now and it dosent stumble to bad unless i open the throttle to fast

http://www.streetfire.net/video/blah3_2339950.htm

deadbird

If it's cool there, I'd be leery. Use your fingernail in a spot not noticeable. If you can leave an impression or, it seems 'sticky' (can't easily drag your nail across), it's still to 'soft' (not cured enough) to mess with.

ZZ3 Z28

I appreciate your resourcefulness but I have never seen Chip Foose paint a car with roll-on enamel on OverHaulin'.

project89

iTrader: (1)

when i put the hood back on the car i was able to grab the hood and the paint was not sticky at all, i could lay my hand on it and it would slide across the surface no problem.

i did do the fingernail test in the corner and was able to leave an impression.when i was painting i was waiting about 8 hours between wetsanding before the next coat.

ill do the fingernail test again on friday night and see what happens if it helps ill take the hood back off the car and put it back on my porch that i can keep at 80* with my small portable heater.

outside temps range from 50-65* during the day and down into the 30's at night but there is like no humidity here so that helps a bit i pretty much live on the edge of the desert

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dead link...

Also Dave, just finish painting your car the way you want to and enjoy the damn thing...

project89

iTrader: (1)

rob here

http://www.mediafire.com/?lyc4s2n8fbm8101 its a .3gp video so not sure if windows mediaplayer will play it, dont know why its messed up on streetfire

im waiting to see what the hood completly finished looks like before i decide to continue or not, thats the reason i only bought an 8$ quart of paint instead of a gallon in the first place.

i can tell u im not a fan of the blue so if i do continue it will be black instead

haps

iTrader: (4)

Do you have ANY idea what that will cost?

project89

iTrader: (1)

free for me , anyways i did the fingerbnail test today and if i pushed hard on the paint i could leave a slight impression so going to wait till monday or tuesday for final sand and buff/polish

haps

iTrader: (4)

Ok.

project89

iTrader: (1)

did the fingernail test again today and the i can barley leave a fingernial impression in the paint. so sometime tommorow i will wetsand and do the final buff and polish on the hood and post results.

these results will determine if i do the entire car or not

project89

iTrader: (1)

yanked th4e hood back off the car now with a somewhat glossy paint on the car i can se ejust how bad my hood is in terms of low and high spots. its so bad im actually going to get a new fiberglass hood. the fiberglass hood was going to be bought down the road anyways, just need to figure out if i need a 4 or 6 inch outlaw hood to clear the upcomming heads/intake combo

anyways im in the middle of wetsanding it, the paint knocks down flat and smooth as glass easily, though im having a hard time bringing the shine back.
the buffer i biught at walmart isnt the greatest either it spinds really slow and has like no power to it.

ill throw up some pictures when i get a lil more done

FYRCHKN

You'll never get a decent shine with that orbital buffer. It's only for buffing wax off, not polishing. You need a high speed buffer with a wool pad and a foam pad.

Speaking from experience, you're going to hate yourself when you get ready to strip off the Rustoleum. Hint: The easiest way to get it off is with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Then, all your filler work will have to be done over again.

You're also going to hate the maintenance on the paint to keep the shine, especially since you didn't add any hardener to it. You're looking at a weekly wax job to keep it glossy.

I've used it. I got very nice results with Rusto, but it just doesn't hold up to any elements.

SaltLifeCamaro

for about $400 you can get car vinyl from 3m ( off ebay ) many colors. fun to do yourself but a learning experience for sure. then it just peels off when ur done or ready to paint. i am doing it to my 87 iroc. matte black with gloss black pinstripe flames. havent started yet cause i wanna finish other projects first dont wanna damage it but we did my friends cobra and it looks great invisible at night when the lights are off. but yeah fairly cheap option thats alot easier to remove.

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

The fiberglass hood will be just as big of a nightmare with high and low spots

project89

iTrader: (1)

i had much better results polishing it by hand thats for sure, and it came out nice,made a big mistake letting a friend help me though and he sanded it way to deep, infact u can see some primer threw the blue now.so im knocking all the blue down wqith 120 then 800 grit and hitting it with the black.

this time around im adding a wet look hardner to it.

i didnt put the blue on nearly as thich as i thought i did though, i can kncok the hood back down to primer in no time and its not really cloging up the paper to bad.

i also learned i didnt sand enough between coats.im going to give this one more go round with the gloss black paint and see what happenes

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know but im going to need a hood to clear the new heads /w vic jr or victor intake and elbow anyways

when i decide the car isnt fast enough with the current combo im going to swap to afr 220 heads with a vic or vic jr efi with rear facing tb so i can do an w2a intercooler

project89

iTrader: (1)

the black is 10000x times better this is after one coat



i dont know why but the black is going on so much nicer then the blue and it has a much deeper shine,not to mention no orange peel anywere on the hood

project89

iTrader: (1)

hows this for a shine, this was the first coat before i wet sanded it


buddy droped a half inch ratchet on the hood and i didnt relize it dinged it that bad