i have a 91 trans am convertible.... and i just put the drivers side door on put new pins in it and lined up the brackets from where they were sitting problem is the drivers door the right hand top corner sticks up a little higher then the quarter panel.. the passenger side is flush with the top of the quarter panel tried everything i could think of.. is this common for convertibles

 

For what its worth...

Any time you align a "latching" panel, you want to do it with the striker removed.

 

I replaced pins, roller and springs on both doors for my coupe. I have fenders off so can't speak to final fitment issues with doors.

I had problems lining up rear of doors so they opened smoothly off of the door striker. While putting doors back on I noticed a few things. I had to put a few bolts in at a time and move rear of door up or down to get rest of holes to line up so I could put remaining bolts in. Even with all bolt in place but not tightened down, the door could be rotated on the hinges somewhat that could maybe cause a slight alignment issue with the front fender gap.

I finally found a way to get the doors to line up and open easy. It may work for you. I have pin stripes on my car so that helped my know how my rear door was sitting compared to rest of body. I placed all bolts in door hinges and tightened them so they were still loose and door hinges could move somewhat. I placed a piece of cardboard on bottom of door sill near rear of door. Used piece of box top and folded it in half to give me enough thickness. I then lifted door up a little while closing it so the door would sit on top of cardboard while closed. I then went around and progressively tightened the bolts. Thought that tightening one bolt all the way would twist the door hinges somewhat. This method worked out good on both doors. My first attempts without cardboard resulted in door not opening smoothly from striker bolt.

If your door opens smooth now and has fender gap, you may need to shim or slide your fender to get better proper gap at door.

 

heres the problem.. i dont know if i should try to jack both hinges up it will level out or not tried everything i could think of

 

Wow, you don't even have the lock on

You could try that. At one point I tried something similar by placing a small piece of 2x4 on my jack and using it to push up on bottom of hinge with my jack. Not sure if it will do much but worth a try. From trying to futz around and get the bolt holes to line up, I found that when the hinge bolts were loose, the rear portion of door could be moved up or down a lot with your hand. Your door doesn't seem too bad height wise but you are getting a weird gap with body.

Here is a crazy thought. Maybe your body sagged in middle due to it being a vert with no subframe connectors. Now after installing good hinge bushings, the doors aren't sagging same as body anymore.

 

i dunno tried that today.. but wont budge lol.. my 88 trans am the drivers door is the same way.. i guess maybe it will be different when i put wrap around wing on it.. but anyways hears today's results

 

Looks to me like the back of the door just needs to go down. You can do this easily by sliding the top hinge back a little or the bottom hinge to the front a little. The first will open the gap at the front of the door, the other will open the gap at the rear. A little on each will keep the gaps close to how they are now. Someone has probably used a jack or bar on the rear of the door to pick it up to make up for the worn pins and bushings bending the shell of the door. When you took up that slack with new parts, it picked up the rear of the door. Is the striker still on the car?

 

The EZ-Store door alignment tool ($24.95) is designed to solve your alignment problem. My site is temporarily offline while the site gets updated with new software. Call or e-mail me if you want to buy the tool.

Lon Salgren
626-369-0040
topdownsolutions@yahoo.com