I have go some rust starting to form on the driver's side above the bumper. Does anyone know exactly how to get the bumper off? I would like to solve the problem before it gets too much worse. I have found 8 bolts that look like they are all, but I'm not sure. Any help would be great.

 

The rear bumper.. it's been a while; I think there's 4 screws on each side. You nab 'em from inside the hatch, behind the plastic panels. They're in the extreme corners... use a flashlight.

After that, you remove the taillights. (Hm, maybe remove the taillights first.) There will be 8 plastic panel clips holding the urethane bumper to the steel bumper; pry them up with screwdrivers. There's 6 or 8 more underneath the back bumper, doing the same thing (holding plastic to steel).


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

You wouldn't have any rust repair tips would you? I was just going to sand it off, and put some primer on it to get me by until I can find a a paint that matches what I have now. I bought the car after it was repainted and I don't know the cars color. I'm searching though.

 

Tom pretty much summed it up except.that therer are 3 nuts on each side where the bumper cover bolts to the rear quarters.
I believe they are 10mm---plus the plastic clip things that are on hte top and bottom of the bumper cover.

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84 FIREBIRD-2.8 V6,5spd super economy model
no options except t-tops( not even locking),no tilt,no cruise,no delay wipers,no rear defroter,no a/c,no rear spoiler(i put one on)no pw,pdl,pm,pseat,no gauges(just a 85 mph speedo with no trip odometer and a big f***in' gas gauge)
90 FORMULA 350-
Edelbrock t.e.s,gutted cat,Borla cat-back,LT4 hot cam ,24# injectors,holley h.p. fuel pump,K&N Throttle Body mounted air filter,52mm throttle body,accel 8.8mm wires,plugs cap and rotor,ADS superchip,GTA tailights,T-tops,4th Gen 17's with 275/40ZR17 Comp T/A's
No E.T's yet.

Previous 3rd gen's
83 Trans-Am 305 CFI auto T-TOP
84 Firebird 305 H.O. auto HARDTOP
87 Firebird 2.8 V-6 auto HARDTOP

 

I hate rust.

(Background: Accident #1 was mild, and I decided to start stripping the whole car to bare metal and priming it. Accident #2 had me cursing, because I found out primer is NOT waterproof!)

In one spot on my car, I had a ton of rust under my primer.. I sanded it all down to bare metal, primed & painted it. Well, 2 years later, the rust is back with a vengence, and I have to weld on a new right rear 1/4 panel.

Check out http://www.por-15.com for a waterproof paint (more like a chemical) that stops rust. I used their $20 Super Starter Kit when I rebuilt my rear axle. It'll be great for now.

The best stopper is panel replacement. Check out http://www.eastwoodco.com for a "weld-less panel replacement" kit. Actually, get their free catalog while you're there, too. The kit comes with a tool that lets you flush-mount rivets into a panel.. the tool looks like vise-grips. You can buy the tool separately. Anyway just by looking at the catalog & website you'll see what I mean.

I found it for you- go to Eastwood's site, and go under "Body & Fender". "Click Here" for all the items, and go to page 5 of 8. They call them "Dimpling Pliers." You could buy a panel flanger to really get a flush repair. Aw hell here's the link: http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...3394079&FNM=20

The whole "no weld panel repair kit" is on page 6. http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...3394079&FNM=20

But go to their main page anyway to get your free catalog.

Hope this helps!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!