My car has a very solid body. The only dent is quarter sized in the pass. Side door. My questions are: I can look down the side of the car and it looks straight but there are a few spots in the metal where it looks a little wavy. Almost like dips not dents. You can only see them from an angle. When I start to prep the car for paint can I just prep the paint to paint over it? Or do I need to strip it and primer it since there are wavy spots? I'm no body guy so I need advice please. I was thinking about prepping the paint to be painted over and then using a filler for the low spots. Is that right? Or is there better ways to do this?

 

You can paint over paint assuming there is no failer of old paint or clear coat. One benefit of stripping the old paint is that you can find hidden damage/rust. If you are confident in condition of old paint/body condition then scuff (red scotch) or sand (150-220 grit) to get "mechanical" bite. Filler can not be applied over paint, however, glaze can. For the dents I would go with glaze either "Evercoat" or "Winzer" brand. If glaze needs to be applied over plastic it must be "flexible" glaze. Apply one coat Epoxy primer for corosion protection. Then apply 2-3 coats fill primer. Block no less than 320 grit for factory finish appearance. The finer the grit the smoother the finish, for ultra smooth finish around 400-600 grit. Apply 1 coat sealer, 2 coats color (standard finish,non-tricoat, kandy, ect.) and 2 (or more) coats clear. Color sand, buff, enjoy.

 

if this not the factory paint job, then sand down the whole car with 80 grit and start fresh...i just repainted my 91 rs with the 2010 synergy green and i thought my car would be alright to paint over original but as soon as i sanded past the teal on one spot i found old filler...if i were you, i would sand the whole car atleast most of the way down to the original sealer to make sure there are no trouble spots hiding (this way you can also apply body filler and ensure proper adhesion for that)...by what you are describing, the waves are definently not factory, and it sounds like it was fixed before(not properly, as there are waves). when its all sanded and filled, apply any kind of primer (you dont need etch, because now mosdt primers are metal bonding) and then spray a light coat of guidecoat to make sure the body is laser straight. sand with 320, apply 1 coat sealer (which by the way, you can also tint with base coat to make coverage later on easier. then a minimum of 3 coats base (color), but you can do more that three if its not covered yet, then 2 wet coats of clear. if sprayed right, you dont have to sand and buff.

 

Thanks for your replies guys. like I said, I'm new to body work but this is something I want to learn to do. I just have a few more questions. 1. what is "guide coat"? I'm pretty sure I'm going to sand it down like 406ci said. and that leads me to question 2. How do I know when I have sanded to the factory sealer? Is that Just past the original paint? 3. Tinting the factory sealer. Is that mixing base coat with the sealer? 4. this is the last question. Do I wet sand before I spray base coat? or after? or both?
Again thanks to both of you for your replies.

 

hey man just glad to help...1. guide coat is essentially flat black spray paint formulated to sand easily without gumming up your sand paper and it shows your high and low spots and ensures you have sanded everything properly. it comes in an aerosal can for about $4. most bodyshops use it, i buy SEM brand. 2. the sealer will be a shade of grey and its just below the base (color). 3. you can add 10% of base to your sealer mix to tint it...tinting will make it easier to cover with your base coats...most sealers are 4 parts sealer, 1 part activator, and one part reducer (you do not need sealer, but in most cases it will spray easier and flow out better). so if you have a total of 6 ounces after mixing that, you just add half an once of base. essentially you should have about 90% of your mixture the regular sealer mixture, and 10% base. 4. you will want to spray your one coat of sealer, give it a 20 minute flash time, spray your 3 or more coats of base with a 15 minute flash time imbetween each, then after your last coat of base, wait for a 30 minute flash time, then spray 2 coats of clear with 10 minute flash times imbetween. then your done...no sanding between any of that is needed because with those flash times, every coat will bond to the last. if you have anymore questions im happy to answer them...and just so you know you can trust my advice (and to show off a little) here is a picture of my 91 rs...originally teal with a v6...did a v8 swap and now its getting the synergy green pearl treatment!!

 

First thank you for taking your time to help. Also your paint looks very nice, you can show it off anytime.
I just have a few more questions. Are there different color primers? I had some bought for me and the cap is black but I sprayed some out and it looks like a rusty red color? I'm going to be painting my car black. Would it matter what color primer I use? I was thinking if the guide coat is black then I should use a light color primer like grey correct? And When I sand to the factory sealer and do any body work thats needed, then prime the car. Do I sand the primer before putting the guide coat on? or just spray the guide coat and sand all at one time?
And do I have to sand the sealer before spraying the base coat? And you said I didn't have to do the sealer. Is there any cons to not using the sealer?
Again thank you for your help. And your car looks great. have you nmade anymore progress since the picture was taken?

 

Sounds as if your using a gun but you said the cap is black on the primer but it sprays rusty red. Are you referring to rattle can ? If you are that could change a few things.

 

yeah its a rattle can. I havent sprayed any on the car I just thought it was weird. Should I buy something different to use?

 

OK,there are a few here that have rattle caned there cars and maybe they can give you some advice on the procedure.
You should know "these" rattle can threads always end up in major controversy.

 

HA HA yeah I know how they end up. But I asked about the primer because Someone bought it for me as a present (their way of helping me) But I do have a air tank and a spray gun. I just wanted some info on the primer because I have it and it was free. But if it is better to just buy primer from a paint shop and use my spray gun I'll do that.
And just for the record. I am using my tank and gun to paint the car with. Just was curious about the rattle can primer

 

Its nice that it was a gift but you cant mix spray can paint with high quality automotive paint. It sounds like your willing to do what it takes so I'm sure you will get the advise you need for a beautiful paint job.I only was able to do the basic initial sanding when it came to my paint job before it became beyond me.You will not have to spend the money I did for help but materials can still be expensive.

This may not answer your questions but it will give you some idea of what the process looks like.=
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...nt-photos.html

Materials cost $1,500.00 including all new weatherstripping and miscellaneous parts and pieces .Then there's what I payed my friend ( pro.painter) to do the job. another $1,500.00 = $3,000.00 Base/Clear coat with the best PPG has to offer including PPG red pearl additive. The car was on its way to the junk yard. I took a chance and payed 500.00 for it. Needed a fuel pump ,water pump , power steering unit ,new steering column/ VATS module , some of the interior ,etc.( I did not know all that when I bought it.All I new was I wanted to save it) . Runs like a champ now.Seven years of hard but fulfilling work so far.

 

I apologize if I sounded sarcastic earlier.

 

It's ok I didn't take it as sarcasm.
And your car looks awesome man. I'm going to be painting my all black like it came from the factory but I hope it turns out as good as yours.