Apone

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what there solution was.

My driver side door makes a lot of noise when I am driving and I hit a pothole in the road. Basically what is happening is that the door is "bouncing" vertically. The problem is the door latch is old and dosen't fit snug around the door striker. (I call the the little pillar that sticks out from the door jam the striker). Well, I have replaced my striker, but that didn't seem to help too much. I did find that wrapping the striker with tape to fatten it up did get rid of a lot of the sound, but the tape looks really bad wrapped around it and it eventually wears off.

I think the next step would be to replace the door latch unit. The original seems ot be missing a piece of rubber that my passenger side has, which I think also may be the source of the problem. I know you can get new ones from Classic Industries, but I am wondering if it is worth the hassle and if replacing it will even fix my problem. I checked and it seems next to impossible to remove the old one and get the new one inside my door.

Anyone who has had a similiar problem please respond....

PhantomTPI

I am having a very very similar problem. Whenever i go over uneven pavement at higher speeds(which pis*es me off to no end), my door bounces vertically in such a way, that i hear the glass hitting my T-Top...sounds like there is pressure on top of the glass. Well, after semi-disassembling the door, and propping it, i realized that that "pin" that holds the door in its position is worn out and needs replacement, and the door needs to then be readjusted. Its a tedious task, but needs to get done. Thats what i have found. Hope this helps.

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1986 5.0 TPI Trans Am
Random Tech Cat
Two Chamber Flowmaster Muffler
Megs Custom 4.5" Stainless Steel Tips
1999 Grand Am GT In-Dash CD Player w/Equalizer(fits like '86 original)
5% Tint On Rear, 35% On Sides

RGZWS6

I have the same problem. I'll be driving down the road and place my finger between the door jam and the body and actually feel the space get smaller and larger. In one spot, my door actually rubs the body!! In addition to door hardware, I'm thinking that SFC would help get rid of the flex.

Comments/testimonials on this?

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89 Formula 305 TBI
160* stat, 200* fan switch, K&N, Headers, 3in Flowmaster (hollow cat) back, pullies, 1.6 full roller rockers, B&M trans cooler, home-made ram-air
3.73 Richmond gears and SLP Zexel Torsen Posi (waiting for install)

Apone

I did notice that my passenger side door (the door that does not make the rattle sound) has a little piece of what looks like rubber attached to the ddor latch (so basically it sits between the door latch and the striker, providing a little buffer that helps to absorb the impact and dosen't allow the two pieces of metal to hit and make the sound)

I guess the solution would be to replace the rubber part, or just install a new door latch.....I wonder if the new door latches come with the ruber part?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I just replaced a friends latches because teh plastic coating had worn too much. I used latches from a couple or 90 spare doors I had. Just remember to also replace the two small rubber pieces that are attached to the door if they are missing as well. Also you can adjust the striker bolt with a torx tip. Good luck, Lon.


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90 RS Convertible
http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

Brian Laycox

One problaimo... then the door doesnt open without brute force. Repair fail.

Jbuchanan

Pretty sure 18 years later they figured it out.

Brian Laycox

The times caught up with me in 2019 and I needed advice. A lot of it is from 10+ years. I tried this guy's fix, and couldnt get the door open without being an ape. I ended up taking sandpaper and literally sanded down the plastic until the door opened to my liking. It sounds more solid now, so it cant be all bad. If someone finds this 10 years from now, hopefully they can use the info. The past educates the future. Also they should remove the pressure vent from the door jamb so they can hold onto the backplate for the strike bolt. That thing almost fell down into the quarter panel. That would suck to have to fish it out, so take the 30 second precaution.

-the past.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Its the garage talk app. It lists ancient threads at the top. No one looks at a post date. I sure dont.

racerx520

iTrader: (1)

just reading this and how the door scrapes on the sill and stuff....sounds like a worn hinge to me. my doors sag, but ive never noticed any bouncing while driving.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Mine did on my gray iric. Worn hinges. Strikker all worn down. Ocer potholes youd hear the door jump in the lock lol

Aviator857

Re pin the upper and lower hinge and replace the door seal, it will make a world of difference even if the latch is warn. The new door seal will keep pressure on the door against the latch and will kill most of the noise.

Put a little dynomat on the inside of the door, which will eat most of the vibration noise. Also all the little rods for the door locks etc those guides get broken and can cause alot of noise.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Or get strikers with stainless rollers. They wear down a lot slower

As for pinning the hinges. Sometimes the hinges are worn outside the brass inserts making even new ones sit loose. Tig weld or use a rivet peener to schrink the hole. Oversize bushings also work but not sure if you can buy them (i had them custom made) my doors close like ft knox now.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ftLnTSm1QyRqGspn7