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Re-aligning of rear hatch

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Old Apr 14, 2001 | 08:56 AM
  #1  
RMK's Avatar
RMK
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 2
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
Transmission: Pro Built 700R4
Re-aligning of rear hatch

My rear hatch is sitting slightly to one side and rubs the corner of the fin. How do you re-align these? Do you just loosen the 4 bolts that are where the hinges are or is there more to it that this?

Also, has anyone else had this problem? It was like that when I got the car and it is getting annoying.

------------------
1987 IROC-Z Auto (LB9)
Black/grey interior with the stance of a streetfighter
I like to think of her as Arnold Schwartzeneger in a dinner suit

Mods
Custom exhaust. 4 Inch pipe from the headders all the way back to a single muffler at the rear. No Cat. K&Ns, AFPR and Air foil.

Future mods:
Cam change
New torque converter
New heads (maybe corvette L98)
Strut brace
Sub frame connectors
Ram Air

Current G-Tech times
0-60mph 6.26 seconds
1/4 14.74@100.2mph
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Old Apr 14, 2001 | 09:31 AM
  #2  
Dsaint's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: New York
Remove the hatch springs then loosen the bolts, I tried loosening just the bolts myself and got nowhere with it until I loosened the hatch spring.
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Old Apr 14, 2001 | 03:10 PM
  #3  
HybridZ's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
Car: 13' ZL1/91' Z28/10' Audi A5
Engine: 6.2L SC/5.7L 350/2.0L Turbo Quattro
Transmission: M6/700R4
Or you can remove your rear trunk panel to expose the pull down hatch motor. On the motor there are three bolts that hold the motor down. Loosen the bolts a little and shift the hatch motor either to the right or left. There is a lot space to play with. Then when your hatch is being pulled down, it should center itself through the hatch motor. I was told by a body shop that this would work. I tried it myself and it worked fine. It wont damage the hinges either and it seemed a lot easier to me.

good luck

------------------
SS 17x9.5 wheels,
HOTCHKIS 1"drop springs,
HOTCHKIS tower brace,
Bilstein struts and shocks,
K&N filters,
MSD 6A,
MSD 8.5mm Wires,
MSD Cap & Rotor,
Hypertech airfoil,
SLP intake runner (plennum not ported yet, soon)
High flow cats,
SPOHN panhard bar, lower control arms, and subframe connectors,
Baer front track system,
3" Flowmaster Exhaust System,
2100 Stall High Performance Torque Converter,
300 watt sound system,
and soon to come...ZZ4 crate motor...hopefully.
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