I checked the archive and didnt find anything specific on this. Does anyone know of any tech. articles on installing the auto-meter A-pillar fuel press gauge? Which is ideal, electical or mechanical? Where through the firewall should the line be installed? Anyone have some advice?

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91 Z28 305 TPI
Plans for 383...
Jet-coated TES headers, Flowmaster cat-back,
SLP cam, Cloyes double roller timing chain, TPIS shocks/struts, TPIS STB, adj. fuel press. regulator, 170 stat, B&M shift kit, BMR 1.5" springs, Fastchip custom chip, gutted air box/ ram air from fog light intake, 1LE rear w/ 3.23 gears, 2" cowl hood, Hurst dual gate shifter, Mac Ewen white face overlays

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A$$? Welcome to Europe.

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[This message has been edited by gregz28 (edited June 11, 2001).]

 

i just did this last week. i used a electrical Nordskog gauge w/ sender that i got out from Summit. there was already a hole in my firewall behind my pedals so i used that one, the guage is $40 and the sender is $40. i dont think that you want to mount a mech. fuel gauge inside your car. at least i wouldn't. the wiring is pretty self explanatory, considering mine had instructions . any more ?'s

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Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
New project-89 IROC-Jamex Springs...and thats just about it till summer!
Soon- 6 speed, Pro 5.0 shifter and 4.10's
http://users.argolink.net/bvana

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com

 

Cool. All that is needed is the sender and the gauge, then? No more questions, as long as it comes with instructions.

------------------
91 Z28 305 TPI
Plans for 383...
Jet-coated TES headers, Flowmaster cat-back,
SLP cam, Cloyes double roller timing chain, TPIS shocks/struts, TPIS STB, adj. fuel press. regulator, 170 stat, B&M shift kit, BMR 1.5" springs, Fastchip custom chip, gutted air box/ ram air from fog light intake, 1LE rear w/ 3.23 gears, 2" cowl hood, Hurst dual gate shifter, Mac Ewen white face overlays

150 MPH without law
enforcement on your
A$$? Welcome to Europe.

3rdgeners in Europe: Join us...
fbodyeurope.com

generation3rdgen

 

My Norskog sender didn't come with instructions. I mounted it in the car so far.
My question is how do I do up the wiring?
The sender has ground and positive. The gauge has 4 wires. How do I hook this up correctly?

 

There is a mechanical one, made by Autometer. It uses an "isolator" line, which gets filled with a hydraulic fluid- I think brake fluid? Anyway, the setup connects as follows:

in-car-gauge to isolator line to engine compartment to isolator
isolator to fuel pressure tap

I heard a while ago that they were a pain, because you have to bleed the isolator line so it's 100% free of air- and that Autometer had no bleeder provision. But it would be a mechanical gauge, except you'd have brake fluid coming thru the firewall, not gasoline.

Electrical would be much easier to set up.

 

For most intents and purposes the electric should be fine. Been told the mechanical are more accurate, but I do not know why that would be...

John

 

do u need a computer to run electrical guages?? cause i am goin to carb and i won't have one so i got an underhood guage for now

 

There's no advantage to mechanical except that it's usually cheaper. I have an electric one, and it's a simple install (autometer) You just run the wires from the gauge to black box they give you that you install in the engine compartment. Then you run the line from the schraeder valve to the box. Simple

Jon

 

no, you should not need a computer to run electric gages, been running them for years. My 67 Riv has gages, and there is no computer.

John

 

But has anyone hooked up the nordskog electrical/digital gauge? I have the sender T'd into the fuel rail. Until I know how to wire it up it just sits there and looks pretty.

 

Anyone?
I'm assuming I connect the black on the sender to ground and the red on the sender to the gauge.
Is this correct? I don't want to hook it up wrong cause I can't return electrical crap.
Nordskog doesn't seem to have a website so I can't ask them.

help

 

I used their digital crap before and it never read accurately. Always jumped up and down even when a mechanical gauge was used to check pressure from the pump. I switched to the Autometer electric unit and the pressure is dead on and matched the mech test gauge exactly.

 

hmmm.
I hope mine doesn't do that.
How did you wire the sender?

 

Simply follow Autometer's instructions. I used a stud used to attach the small bracket underneath the steering column for the ground and a keyed on electrical source from the fuse block for the 12V. There should also be an extra source there to hook up the lights too. Make sure to use a test light. Running the wires and finding a place to mount the control module are the two hardest parts of the project. Took me all of three hours to do since I made a complete harness with weatherpack connectors in case I had to remove anything.