Best way to approach this (rust)
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Jackson NJ
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Best way to approach this (rust)
I came across this while working on my car. At the moment I cant remove the crossmember to see how bad it is but would like to know the best way to go about it based on the pic. Thanks
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From: ND
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 6.0L LSX
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Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
Depends on how thorough you want to be. You could remove crossmember, sand it and use something like POR-15, or cut it and patch
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 196
From: Jackson NJ
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
Ive been using a Por-15 knock off called rustseal. ill try to get it off and see what im dealing with. thanks
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Montello, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 5 speed
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
I had that problem...only a little worse. I actually cut the subframe section out and replaced it with a piece of 1/4" wall square tube that I machined to fit. Welded nuts on the back side before welding onto the car so I had something to fasten the crossmember to.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,262
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From: Jackson NJ
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
I will def look into that. thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 196
From: Jackson NJ
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)

Damn bolt broke off in the hole after a few turns. Spent the weekend trying to get it out with a torch and easyouts but no luck.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Car: 1990 Camaro
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5 WC
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Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
I had that but much worse. One day my trans fell halfway out... but I had to take it to a shop where the guy just cut out that section of frame and welded in a new plate with nuts in it. Definitley do something soon before you end up like me
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 196
From: Jackson NJ
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
is there any way i can cut out and have that one area welded without having to take the carpet out, seats and console out?
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Car: 1990 Camaro
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
The guy who fixed mine didn't take out any interior, he just kind of cut away a chunk of frame and welded a plate up in there. Not the prettiest but its strong and aligned right.
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From: Streetsboro Oh
Car: 1987 T/A WS6 T-Tops/92 RS
Engine: LB9/3.1
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Axle/Gears: 2.73/3.23
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
If its nit rotted through i would wire
wheel
it, POR15 it then undercoat, be done, if rotted rhen it will have to be plated, POR15 then undercoat Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 191
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Car: 1990 Camaro
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
It was a while ago but I want to say like $450. It wasn't cheap, probably be better off doing it yourself if you have the time and a good welder. But thats the kind of thing that probably varies a lot in price place to place, this was a private little shop
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From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
I had a similar issue, Found a small spot and as I dug into the metal It just grew. I ended up removing the rusted metal and welding a plate over the area. Then I welded a L piece of steel from side to bottom to reinforce it. Then POR 15
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From: Minnesota
Car: 1969 firebird, 1986 Trans Am,
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Re: Best way to approach this (rust)
Sorry Dude, those can be a bummer.
One trick I use to free rusted bolts is to torch them hot and then throw some water on them. Be careful not to get burned, and sometimes I will do it 3 or 4 times. The different thickness and or expand/contraction of the metal can help to pull them apart.(like on a break line)
That being said I think the threads above the insert were probably rusted and did not want to go down through it. You may not have been able to get it without drilling an access hole on the side and wd40ing it.
You can cut into the side and see if you can visegrip or weld and try to turn the bolt up and out.... of course when they get rusty in the rail...you may end up replacing the section like in the earlier post. Mark the location so you can get it in the same spot.
Good Luck.
steve
One trick I use to free rusted bolts is to torch them hot and then throw some water on them. Be careful not to get burned, and sometimes I will do it 3 or 4 times. The different thickness and or expand/contraction of the metal can help to pull them apart.(like on a break line)
That being said I think the threads above the insert were probably rusted and did not want to go down through it. You may not have been able to get it without drilling an access hole on the side and wd40ing it.
You can cut into the side and see if you can visegrip or weld and try to turn the bolt up and out.... of course when they get rusty in the rail...you may end up replacing the section like in the earlier post. Mark the location so you can get it in the same spot.
Good Luck.
steve
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