Hey everyone,

Today I ripped off my old gray carpet to swap in a new one and while looking over the top of the trunk pan I noticed a little spot of rust where it connects to the wheel well. Upon investigation with a screwdriver half the seam between the trunk pan and the rear wheel well was rusted through to the outside.

I took off most of the loose pieces but this place is pretty hard to get to. I have Por 15 and I'll put it on but I doubt it'll do too much cause the rust goes all the way throught the wheel well. Di anybody use Por-15 in these kinds of situations and did it work?

Anyways my question is should I try and save whatevers left with Por-15 and fiberglass or should I replace the quarter panels? I am leaning towards replacing them. Can anybody give me an estimate of what a shop will charge to take the old ones off and put new ones on (plus cost of materials)???

I really need help since I was soooo close to being done with my restoration when I found this, and now I'm pissed

BTW I have 2 good quarters in a parts car, how hard (if possible) would it be to take them out without a blowtorch?

-Max

------------------
86 Trans Am LB9/700R4
-Flowmaster 3inch exhaust, K&N, Ported Plenum, Redone Ignition system

 

I'm guessing you're talking about where the ¼ panel meets the inner fender on the lip of the wheel arch ?. A maybe more feasable alternative would be just replacing the affected area (depending on how handy you are w/a saw)

POR 15 (I've never used but sound like another product) will at least neutralize the cancer from spreading until you can tend to it.

Estimate time for replacing a ¼ panel is 11.5 - 12.5 hours,,, at $35-$45 an hour (maybe more in places) that could get costly.

You don't want to use a torch to remove sheetmetal (unless it's a plasma torch). The panel can be taken off w/patience & a drill. The only place the has to be cut is where it's brazed to the top, the rest is just spot welded together.

Ease of it being a driveway project, I'd give it a 4 out of 5 but, if you know what you're doing it makes it somewhat 'easier'.

Splicing the ¼ on my camaro took me the better part of 9 hrs (including beer/smoke breaks). IMO it's more of a bizatch doing the side w/the filler panel. I might have been able to do it quicker, but it got tagged in the corner so I had to call the Hammerman brothers over to help me out .

There are some real body guys on here that may be of more help in answering than I was.

[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited July 31, 2001).]

 

Thanks deadbird,

I was actually talking about where the inner fender wall meets the trunk pan, but its the same situation. Por-15 by the way is very effective, I used it before and if applied correctly and covering the entire affected area it works miracles.

Anyways I was thinking of using something to cut out the affected are (like you suggested) then bolt in a couple of rods for support and stretch fiberglass cloth across them. Does this sound like a reasonable solution?

What would I use to cut the sheetmetal of the 1/4 panel and trunk pan, a regular power saw from Home Depot or would I need something special?

Please if anybody has some good ideas to solve my problem feel free to respond. The more solutions I ahve toi choose from teh better.

-Max


------------------
86 Trans Am LB9/700R4
-Flowmaster 3inch exhaust, K&N, Ported Plenum, Redone Ignition system

 

For tight spots I like to use my Kett saw

but that's not somthing that's too popular

A sawzall should do what you need. For what you're talking about I'd personally (kinda IMO) just tack weld in come new sheetmetal (hammered to the general shap) and then use the POR-15 (since a majority seem to think it's good including you) to prevent further rust then apply a liberal amount of body seam sealer followed by undercoat. Welding to rust can be a helluva trick tho. Fiberglass might be an easier solution, just make sure from the outside it's as water tight as you can get it, fiberglass will bubble up just like bondo over time if water/rust can get to it.

 

I used that Por-15 on my brothers 69 roadrunner and his was rusting there too. I applied a few coats and used fiberglass stuff in an aerosal can to fill the worst part in, then used factory sealer around the seam. All there is between the two is sealer, They are not actually welded together.

------------------
1992 Camaro Z-28 5.7L auto t-tops arctic white

1967 Pontiac Catalina 2 door fastback 400 v-8 auto cameo white dark red interior

 

Thanks for the help again,

Ok so I decided I'm going to cut off the whole affected area, Por-15 it, Fiberglass, then sealer. (Unfortunately I won't have access to a welder for a couple of weeks at least.

Couple of questions first:
Deadbird, how much can I expect to pay for a compact saw like your Kett at a Hardware store?
Can I just use the sealant that makes bath-tubs waterproof, or do I have to buy the special stuff? Where is it sold?

I'll let you know how it turns out by Friday hopefully,

-Max

------------------
86 Trans Am LB9/700R4
-Flowmaster 3inch exhaust, K&N, Ported Plenum, Redone Ignition system

 

I don't know how easily they are found at hardware store (it's more a industrialish thing) but I belive when mine cooked the last time to replace insdtead of fix was around $350 (yea,,, :eek . I'd never use/have one if I didn't need it for work.

As for using tub & tile caulk (I'm assuming what you meant). I'm not sure where body sseam sealer is avail to you, but around here there are pleanty of paint suppliers (the small ones I like better) but there is also an 'parts supplier/wholesaler' here that carries the stuff for like $3-4 a tube.
I wouldn't suppose tub & tile caulk would hurt (I wouldn't go as far as using it on my bird,, but the camaro,,, )

 

Ok, since I dont have 350$ just lying around, I decided I'd just drill holes very close to each other and break the reusted piece off (I'll have lots of free time next week). If that doesn't work what would you recommend I could use to saw it off? Would a reciprocating saw they sell at Home Depot do the trick?

-Max