To the Metal we go!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 16
From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
To the Metal we go!
So today, I am going to start prepping for paint, I need to go down to the metal, thats how much caked on paint layers there are. So, since I am doing this for myself, and for the first time, I would like to know which method I should use for going to the metal. I have a couple of tools, various sanders, like a radial sander, belt sander, my hands and sand paper. I also have wire sanders. I am trying to figure out the most effective, quickest, and best way to go about doing this. Any help would be appreciated. I am starting with the fenders. Also, how do I go about sanding down the plastic parts? Such as the GFX and Bumpers?
Also, my friend keeps telling me its a Bi*ch to prep for black paint. What makes it such a big deal? Is sanding down to metal and priming it not good enough? Or is he an idiot.
Also, my friend keeps telling me its a Bi*ch to prep for black paint. What makes it such a big deal? Is sanding down to metal and priming it not good enough? Or is he an idiot.
Last edited by Annihilate; May 13, 2013 at 01:05 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: Ballwin, MO
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 355 tpi
Transmission: 5 speed
Re: To the Metal we go!
Well If it was me I would get a DA sander and go after it with that. And prepping for black i a ***** . Black shows more imperfections in the prep and body than any other color,
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 16
From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
Re: To the Metal we go!
What would you suggest is the best way to show the least imperfections?
Re: To the Metal we go!
Any abrasive strip (sandpaper, DA, blasting) will mark the surface. Key is to get the marks out with finer grades of prep. I DA'ed mine with 80 grit to get to the metal. Fixed all the bad stuff, then DA'ed with 150 and 220 grit. (Car starts looking Delorean-ish at that point!) Avoid too much downward pressure; you're asking for deep scratches. If the paper's not cutting, use a fresh sheet or go back down a grade. Then went to the 2K primer and blocking from there.
Definitely stay away from the belt sander. It will gouge in a heartbeat.
Definitely stay away from the belt sander. It will gouge in a heartbeat.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: To the Metal we go!
If you need to go to the metal, just have the car mediablasted and zink coated. Cost me around $800 to do the whole car.
Then get a gallon or so of filler and fix the body, since you'll probably find out it wasn't straight. Fix every little ding and dent. Guide coat it, long board it, and then maybe if you are really really good you can paint it black.
-- Joe
Then get a gallon or so of filler and fix the body, since you'll probably find out it wasn't straight. Fix every little ding and dent. Guide coat it, long board it, and then maybe if you are really really good you can paint it black.
-- Joe
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 16
From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
Re: To the Metal we go!
Gahh, so much work. Did you have a shop mediablast it? Or did you do it yourself?
Re: To the Metal we go!
Ain't no such thing as a free lunch. Work in ===> quality out.
It's really not so bad, and you'll have so much pride of ownership in the finished product. AND think of the $$ you will save.
It's really not so bad, and you'll have so much pride of ownership in the finished product. AND think of the $$ you will save.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Re: To the Metal we go!
http://www.classiccarblasting.com/
-- Joe
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