paint peeling
paint peeling
Ok I have one of the IROC's that peel like bad dandruff. I'm painting it this winter, my biggest problem besides not knowing what color to paint it is do I need to sand to metal or just to the primer? From what i've read, the reason its peeling is the primer?
what about Hugger Orange with black heritage stripes and 91-92 Z28 style hood scoops and wing?
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Blue 1989 IROC Z28
what about Hugger Orange with black heritage stripes and 91-92 Z28 style hood scoops and wing?
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Blue 1989 IROC Z28
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,293
Likes: 195
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Is your car White, Gray or Blue??
The reason for the pealing is more than likely because from the factory they did not put enough color coat to keep the sealer coat from oxidizing.
What I have been told by a bump shop is this: The reason your paint is pealing is the fault of the manufacturing process. Back when your car was originally pained, GM was beginning to use a new technique to help slow or stop rust. They would spray a car with a "sealer" that was so expensive they decided to skip the primer. The problem did not occurr with some of the darker colors, but for the blues, grays and some whites, (there is probably some other colors too). There is not enough paint on your car to keep the UV sunlight from oxidizing the sealer.
i am not sure, But you may have sand down quite a ways to keep your car from re-pealing. But there is a draw back, unfortunately the sealer is so good, that an aftermarket primer really does not seem to hold up as well as the sealer as far as Rust.
If you drive the car in the summer only, or if you live in a state lik AZ, no problem. I see you live in MO, I do not know. But in the northern states where Salt is used, your new paintjob would eventually rust faster.
I know there are some new techniques that I am not aware of, start taking your car to some body shops and see what they suggest. They might even be able to get the sealer that you could spray, then prime and then paint.
I hope this helps.
John
------------------
87 Formula Yellow/Black
5.1 TPI Automatic
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels, KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts, Custom Leather interior, WAAAY TOO MANY MODS TO LIST
87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK
1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)
83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)
http://www.3rdgenformula.com
The reason for the pealing is more than likely because from the factory they did not put enough color coat to keep the sealer coat from oxidizing.
What I have been told by a bump shop is this: The reason your paint is pealing is the fault of the manufacturing process. Back when your car was originally pained, GM was beginning to use a new technique to help slow or stop rust. They would spray a car with a "sealer" that was so expensive they decided to skip the primer. The problem did not occurr with some of the darker colors, but for the blues, grays and some whites, (there is probably some other colors too). There is not enough paint on your car to keep the UV sunlight from oxidizing the sealer.
i am not sure, But you may have sand down quite a ways to keep your car from re-pealing. But there is a draw back, unfortunately the sealer is so good, that an aftermarket primer really does not seem to hold up as well as the sealer as far as Rust.
If you drive the car in the summer only, or if you live in a state lik AZ, no problem. I see you live in MO, I do not know. But in the northern states where Salt is used, your new paintjob would eventually rust faster.
I know there are some new techniques that I am not aware of, start taking your car to some body shops and see what they suggest. They might even be able to get the sealer that you could spray, then prime and then paint.
I hope this helps.
John
------------------
87 Formula Yellow/Black
5.1 TPI Automatic
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels, KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts, Custom Leather interior, WAAAY TOO MANY MODS TO LIST
87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK
1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)
83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)
http://www.3rdgenformula.com
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,293
Likes: 195
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Depending on the severity of the peal and how far gone the sealer is. My guess would be yes without looking at the car. Take it to some bodyshops (more than 2). they should be able to give you some pointers.
John
John
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: Randleman,NC,USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 385ci LT1 cnc ported heads big cam
Transmission: 4L60E automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Zexel posi 7.5" rear
Take it to the metal and use some metal etching primer. That is the only way to make it look right. I just did the hood, top and trunk. Sides weren't peeling and looks ok now. That peeling paint sands right off. Didn't take near as long as I thought it would.
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