Can somebody tell me the best way to adjust the door window so that it sits back, towards the back of the car, a little more? My driver side door is a donor and the glass is off by about 1/4 of an inch.

I found this guide:

http://www.camarosource.ca/forums/vi...st=0&sk=t&sd=a

I'm sure it was very helpful when the images weren't broken. I browsed the stickies on this site but none of them mention front to back adjustment.

Any help would sure be appreciated.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/windowadjust

 

That's not what I need... that tells you how to adjust the glass inwards and outwards (towards and away from the seals) and the angle. I need to adjust frontwards and backwards (towards the hood or towards the trunk).

 

I see there isnt much adjustment there you can try to loosing the bolts that hold the window tracks in and move them to the back as far as you can to see if that will help how does the fender to the door and door to the quarter panel fit you may can move the door back and make up the gap that you have ???

 

With the door panel removed, towards the rear of the door is a vertical window guide.At the top is a bracket with two bolts (on the door).Loosen those & you will be able to adjust the window fr/rr.Keep the window at the half way up/dn position, door closed.You may have to adjust the tri seal at the front, if the glass is too far away afterwards.Make small adjustments. It doesnt take much to move the glass.Check for air leaks too.

 

Like I said this is a donor that I did not put on and it doesn't fit perfectly to begin with. In terms of the door itself, the front gap is perfect but the back gap is a tad bit off, maybe an 1/8th of an inch? Regardless, the difference is so minimal that it isn't worth dealing with.

The glass on the other hand is a different story. This is a 88 door so all the guts from my old 92 door, power window assembly and all, were transferred over to this door.

It was done a few years ago... didn't do it myself, but since I needed to get it ready for paint and replace the sweeps anyway, I figured I would adjust things correctly.

I've took a ruler to both the stock passenger and the replacement driver doors and measured from the end of the door to the start of the glass. The new door is off by about 1/4 of an inch, enough to where it is noticeable and I might have to worry about air leaks. My point is even if the door is mal-adjusted, the relationship between the glass and the door is mal-adjusted as well.

84:

I loosened those up, it was the first thing I tried, but it didn't really help. While the two top bolts of that assembly have some left to right movement in the holes afaict the bottom one doesn't. I did try tugging on the glass after loosening these anyway but I couldn't get the glass to move significantly backwards or forwards for that matter.

Could there be something I'm missing?

 

Where was the window when you tried to adjust it?Best/easiest palce to have it is the midway point.Over time the metal can get an indentation from the bolt heads, if the bolt/s are not backed out enough (away from the metal).They sometimes snag on the indentations.Also try lossening the felt guides at the top.The lower bolt (hole) is not slotted, just slightly loosen it.

 

Well I'm no rocket scientist or anything but where it's a triangular configuration and only the top bolts move, all I would be doing is tilting the window, not actually pulling it backwards.

I need to specify a bit I think... I could move the bolts and the assembly just fine but other than making the glass a little crooked, I couldn't move the glass back to any significant degree.

I had them pretty loose.. I'll try again tomorrow but I'm not really sure this is where you are supposed to adjust. Does the scissor lift that raises the window have some kind of stops to keep the window glass from moving around? It's hard to see in there.

Yeah I typically do this with the window about halfway down, although when I have trouble I'll try multiple positions. I've adjusted windows on these cars before, I've just never had to adjust the forward/back position.

Thanks for the help.

 

Ok I finally got it loose.

For the record you were right, it's just my door had been assembled wrong... it was the weirdest thing, the bolts moved, the bracket moved, but the window didn't. It was binded into position due to the mal-alignment... I had to give it a good pull to get it moving.

I've got a minor adjustment and then I'm done, thanks for all the help.

 

Glad to help.The down stop is on the bottom of the window (rearward), up stop on the the glass at the forward area & just above those 2 bolts (on the guide).In the center of the door frame is the pivot (fr/bk).Also by the two bolts & just below them (pointing up) are the in/out tilt for the window.

 

Yeah I need to adjust the tilt a little bit but I'll have to wait until I have an extra pair of hands around.

Is it normal/common to have a bit of a weak seal where the backmost/bottommost part of the window hits the weather stripping on the quarter panel?

That's what I need to take care of.. everything else is aligned perfectly. It's one of those deals where it's almost touching, but you could stick a piece of paper through it. It's only like that on the bottommost part of the seal, for about an inch or so.

I'm not exactly sure how to fix that part...tilting the the glass in/out would have some effect, but I'm guessing not a lot.

 

Somewhat common, maybe.Most leaks occur along the top.Especially on the corners/bends.Having slid the glass rearward would have helped the window seal better in that spot, if not....

When the door is closed, is it level with the qtr panel (viewed from above)?If it sticks out, lossen the striker & move it in so the door closes farther inwards.Or do that anyway but only like 1/16 to help the situation.Too far & it'll be difficult to fully close the door.Its possible the weatherstrip is too compressed to seal properly anymore, but adjusting the striker may help.There's no adjustment to move the glass in along the bottom.

 

Yeah it's lined up. I actually had the striker completely off when I was adjusting the door itself.. if push the door in far enough to where it smashes the rubber good, it's at a point to where the door would be too hard to close.

Regardless my car is one of those where the striker hole doesn't have any slack in it. I'm not opposed to drilling, but it probably wouldn't be the best solution to this problem.

I played around with the seal itself and it actually had quite a bit of play in it. I pushed it out a bit with my fingers and now it touches the glass at least. I think I might take a little bit of weather stripping adhesive and glue it into a good position. They seem to be in perfect condition though.... I guess they could have shrunk... I've heard rubber shrinks slightly over time.

The t-top seals are literally the only ones I haven't replaced.... I got sick of throwing 100 dollar bills at my car.

 

Have you tried putting something behind the weartherstrip to "push" it out some?
Ive used double sided tape to bring the seal closer to the glass.Works pretty good if the gap is minute.

 

Yeah that's the plan.. there's quite a bit of play in it.

 

Mine doesn't seal up too well back there, but I figured I just needed new weatherstripping or adjust the window better.