Well I've been looking at cowl hoods, but am low on cash and need some bodywork done. I have the same hood as the 82 and 83 Z's with the LU5 scoops, except mine don't function. I was thinking of making something that would connect to the scoops (dryer hose?) and flow air into the rear of my air cleaner.

Does this sound like a good idea? Does anyone have a pic of what the underside of a, 82 or 83 Z's hood that has the system? By the way it's carbed with an open element.

-Matt

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1984 Camaro Z28 - Black w/ Grey int.
-GM Goodwrench 350 with Edelbrock 600 Carb, Edelbrock Preformer RPM intake, AC Delco plugs, 8mm AC Delco wires, 14" Accel filter, Homemade Cold Air Indctn., Edelbrock Chrome valve covers, breather, and Air cleaner.
- Profesionally Built Turbo-350 with 2500 RPM Stall converter, Hurst shifter, & one wicked shift kit.
- Eagle Alloys 15" Alum. Rims surrounded by P235/60R15 BF Goodrich Radial T/A's
-Comming Soon:
3.73's, MAC Cat-Back, hollowed cat., B&M Megashifter, & Paint: Navy Blue Metallic w/ Silver strips
Pics at: http://members.fbody.com/flashz28/

 

There isn't any really good way to do what you're planning, unless you get a SMC hood with the flapper doors. Even then you'd be looking at a lot of fabrication.

 

instead of buying a cowl hood, you can have a cowl grafted onto your stock hood. Done right, it will look pretty damn good, done wrong it will look like ****.

then grab a nice open element, and you're hood to go.

 

You think? I don't plan on using the flaps that open I just would us a piece of screen to protect from bugs and such. I was thinking that if I went the cheap, easy, fast route all it would be is two dryer hoses that lead from the scoops to the open element with a hole in the bottom of each so water doesen't get in.

I'd try to make it look a little professional by making something to connect the scoop to the hose (some type of reducer that goes from rectangular to oval) and then leave enough slack to be able to open the hood. Then I could steal my stepdad's dual inlet airbox off his '79 Z or use the open element I have now to route the pipes into. Do you think it would even would be worth it? Does anyone have any underhood pics of the LU5 setup? I really like the look of the 82-84 Z28 hoods so I'd like to keep it without molding a cowl to it. If I could pull this off I'd still look stock.

Opinions needed,
Matt

[This message has been edited by Flash84Z28 (edited November 28, 2001).]

 

i have a 83 cu5 hood on my car....i just took off the flapper unit......with a k&n extreme air cleaner lid....direct feed!!


i took off the whole unit and the mounted pieces are "glued" on...i lightly tapped them with a hammer and they came off...

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84z28HO
355
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accel 8mm wires
adjustable thermostat switch
160 stat
gta rims
gts blackouts
s.s rear control arms
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98 camaro rear springs,shocks
98 z28 leather seats
95 camaro rear view mirror
"wonderbar"
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http://www.geocities.com/toosloz/84camaroz28.html

 

Alright guys wish me luck. I'm going to try it out when I get some free time. If it's a success and I can notice a differance, I'll post and make a tech article.

-Matt

 

I had an 82 Z28 when it was new. I think I used a 1980 or 1981 Camaro Z28 (it's been a long time ago)air cleaner with the rubber seal. It came from the working air induction hood of one of those years. It fit perfectly after opening the holes and attaching screen door material on the inside of the hood. I think the 1969 Camaro cowl induction air cleaner might work also. If my memory is correct, the 1981 air induction air cleaner looked the same as my 1969 cowl induction air cleaner. The Camaro reproduction catalogs have the air cleaner and rubber seal hight adapters.


Steve

 

Just don't forget that GM cancelled the functional hoods because they let water into the engine.

 

Before cutting big holes in your hood you might want to make sure it is a high pressure zone, not a low pressure zone. Drill a hole, install a rubber grommet and a vacuum fitting. Then connect a long rubber hose to a vacuum/pressure gauge and mount it so you can see it while driving. Cutting big openings in your hood, you may wind up with something you didn't intend. IMO, it would be good for heat extraction, not for forced air induction. It sounds as if you were after the latter. For forced air induction the vents would need to be facing forward, not back as they currently are. Opening them up would be good for a race car, but bad for a daily driver unless you baffle them below to divert the rain water. I have installed a NACA duct further forward in my stock look glass hood and will connect it to a custom built filter shroud surrounding my TBI filter. In my case water will be diverted with a hose routed between the water pump and timing chain cover. Good luck, Lon

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

 

I filled my engine with water two years ago when I decided to open my hood up... I just pulled the plugs, pumped out the water and changed the oil.... nothing was really damaged.




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johnyIROC 1983 Z28
"5.0 is way too slow"
-NEW and improved with 355 CID!

 

Thanks for the replys and the pic. Johny. Nice.

I'm not going to go out an cut holes in my hood. Not sure if you ever seen an '84 Z's hood but there are block off plates that screw into a piece behind them. I am going to cut out the piece behind it leaving just the screw holes and the metal on each side of them that support the block off plate. This way I can always put the plates back on if it rains.

Another consiteration I had for water is that when the hood is closed the pipes that bring in air will be at a "V" shape on each side of the distributer. (Becouse I have to leave enough slack to be able to open the hood.) I'm going to put holes the the tip of the V is to let out water or route hoses from these holes to avoid a wet distributer.

Also lan what does your NACA scoop look like?

Thanks again,
Matt

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If anyone needs a Trans Am Glove compartment or Camaro Hardtop overhead counsle. Let me know.

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1984 Camaro Z28 - Black w/ Grey int.
-GMPP 350 (72cc heads, 8.5:1 CR, & .390 intake/.410 exhaust cam) with Edelbrock 600 Carb, Edelbrock Preformer RPM intake, AC Delco plugs, 8mm AC Delco wires, 14" Accel filter, Edelbrock Chrome valve covers, breather, and Air cleaner.
- Profesionally Built Turbo-350 with 2500 RPM Stall converter, Hurst shifter, & one wicked shift kit.
- Eagle Alloys 15" Alum. Rims surrounded by P235/60R15 BF Goodrich Radial T/A's
-Comming Soon:
3.73's, MAC Cat-Back, hollowed cat., B&M Megashifter, & Paint: Navy Blue Metallic w/ Silver strips
Pics & more at: http://members.fbody.com/flashz28/