xc500

Hello
I got my first 3rd gen this winter I am looking to re-paint it. I have painted many muscle cars. I have always took the cars down to bare metal.Then sealed them with epoxy primer then 2k high build primer. Ive seen many people just scuff there original paint up and paint right over that. I am thinking about doing that with my 3rd gen as it doesn't need much body work. Has anyone ever done a "scuff and shoot"? If so how did you go about scuffing the paint? With a da sander or scotch brite pad?
Thanks

TIMMYS89GTA

iTrader: (28)

You want to go over the whole car with at least 300(I have done one recoat with 220)..as long as paint isn't in bad shape like any chips or clear peeling you should be good to go...if clear is flaking or peeling you need to get it all off..and as I'm sure you already know since you have painted other cars..you will need to feather edge in any chips or use some spot and glaze putty and put some primer over any spots that you put putty on..

xc500

I would need to sand all the clear coat off as there is a lot of clear coat peel. I don't know what to scuff it with. I don't want to go to aggressive and burn thru the paint.
Thanks

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

There may be better answers today, but back in the day, there were two approaches, depending on how bad the clear was pealing.

1) Duct tape! Don't laugh. It pulled off huge strips of clear with little or no effort, on cars where it was in really bad shape.

2) Wet sanding. What the tape would not get, or in cases where the clear was not that "loose", wet sanding did the trick. Lots of water. The clear comes off milky. When you start to see the water turning the color of the base coat, you've removed all the clear. A slow, tedious job, but it worked. GM warranty would not pay enough labor to go down further, so this was a necessity.

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

Forget the word scuffing, that's only for a really good paint surface you have to topcoat for sone reason.
You are sanding. If you are just re coating the original paint, just start going crazy with the 220. That will take off the clear while you smooth the color coat as well. You will only go through fast on edges and high spots. It's ok if you expose the primer and you might find that you have to take off more of the color than you think in some places in order to get it smooth. If you are going to primer again you don't need to sand any further, but if you are sealing or going straight to color, wet sand with 320. Clean the hell out of it and spray.

xc500

So I should just sand all the clear coat off with 220 then wet sand it with 320?
Thanks

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

Yup, you will go through the clear almost instantly, then into the color. Where the clear coat has failed, the color coat may be pitted or bubbled as well so you'll want to sand off any damaged color as well. You will prob sand through the primer to metal in some spots so be ready to touch up the primer layer as needed.