I've got some surface rust issues on my black center bar. I know that almost everyone says to replace the seals, but with all I've got to do to the car this year, that will have to wait.

However, I'm wondering if anyone has successfully removed the t-top seals intact - so that they can be reinstalled. Occasionally, I get leaks during a hard rain, so I know I've got to get that fixed. I've found the t-top leak guide that someone linked on TGO, and I plan to use that as a guide to find my leak(s). I don't want to mess up my seals more, so I am hoping someone has some blinding light of knowledge as to getting these off carefully & in one piece!

I've pulled a few of them back in order to remove the t-top center bar. Just work it out carefully. No need to remove the entire seal.

I've managed to pull a couple intact. It's only possible if it has only the factory sealant or was resealed in factory locations. If someone has added more sealant, it's not likely to come out intact.

I think mine is still factory sealed. Any way of telling (beyond seeing obvious globs of goo?)

One other question - would a heat gun on a low-medium setting be helpful to loosen the glue, or would it wreck the seals?

You should be able to see if someone added sealant, if you do t see any goop I would assume it just has the proper sealant.

Don't use a heat gun, the rubber is soft enough as it is, heat will make it even more fragile.
The trick to getting them out is using small scrapers or screwdrivers as pry bars to get the lips of the seal out of the groove. You want to push the seals out, not pull. As soon as you lose patience and start pulling, it rips.

My husband has removed several sets on parts cars.
He spends a lot of time with his thin scraper and carefully keeps scraping it off. Takes a while, I can tell you that.
He does body work for a trade, so he knows all the tricks- I'll ask him about it.

Thanks to everyone that's answered! I know patience is the key, but sometimes, there are little known tricks that help, too.