84LsxZ28

A few days ago I realized my original driver's side floorpan was all gone and that it must have been repaired quite a few years ago. Now that that repair is rusted out as well, I need to tackle fixing my floorpans the right way. I pulled up all the carpet and this is what it looks like:


I'm probably just going to buy a new floorpan from Hawks and weld that in after I cut out the floorpans in it now. Will the floorpan from hawks be a direct replacement that is the same guage metal as the other metal used for the floorpans originally?

It looks like someone has replaced the rear floorpans as well. Found out it was crappily placed on top of the original rear floorpan, but the parts that had rust were cut away. Lower control arm mounts on the original floorpan are what remain.


EDIT: I have started the removal of the rear floorpan to fix some previous owner's garbage work on it. I want to make sure I do this correctly so I don't have any future problems with the body getting misshapen while removing the rear floorpan. I have all four wheels up on stands of equal height, so I'm pretty sure that should keep it straight while removing the rear pan, but is there anything to look out for when removing the rear pan since the rearsubframe connects to it? Should it be fine to just remove the floorpan from where the subfram connects to it? I'm all fairly new to this kind of work on a car, so I apologize for all the questions, but I want to make sure I'm doing this right so I won't have to go back and repair it again.

Lower control arm mount where the "new" floorpan is overlayed onto the old one:

Mirror Image

iTrader: (2)

Wait until the new pans get there before you start cutting the old pans out and watch out for the fuel and brake lines they run right under the drivers side floor pan

psychedelic_leg

Instead of buying quarter panels online, you should visit a junkyard and find some rust-free ones. Got a whole floor pan out of a junkyard for like $250. And if you are going to weld, don't use flux weld, you will burn through most of the time, use MIG.

84LsxZ28

I went to a Junkyard today and found a camaro with perfect floorpans. I brought my battery powered cutting wheel but both batteries died after five minutes of use. What did you use to cut the floorpans out at the junkyard?

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

If you get to the frame rails you can use a sawzall with the long wood blade (Ie. pack of Morse rb 125006/ $10-$15). Not sure on the battery life but should be able to get it done with a couple batteries depending on the saw etc.(?) Cut extra wide so you can do the finer cuts without disturbing the metal as much. Junk yards here won't allow cutting tools btw.

84LsxZ28

I've decided to buy two new floorpans from a place I found online. ~$295 for a full pan to the back seat. Getting the right tool to cut a pan from the junkyard would cost as much as a new pan.

I will also be welding in a rollcage since I need the car to be a bit stronger for racing. Not sure if I should just go for an 8 point cage or go for a 10 point.

WTR388

I just welded patches in my A pillars with flux core... Lowest amp setting, proper wire feed and you're fine... That's thinner material that what the floors are too.

Irockthedrag

Where did you find the floor pan your referring to for 295? Can I get a link? Also I have an 8 point, if you plan on street driving I'd stick with the 8.

84LsxZ28

This car will mainly be a daily driver to go back and forth to school and out with friends to the track whenever there's a track day. I'm hoping to run 10.5's in it.

Here's the floorpan for $295
http://www.thirdgenranch.com/catalog...f1509c498a03b0

84LsxZ28

New questions about what to do when replacing the rear floorpan are in the edit of the original post. I appreciate everyone's help on this project, it is a lot more than I expected to fix on the car when I initially bought it. At least I got it for a really cheap price