tunatrky

Well g'day to the forums. This is an introduction to the forums, as well as a focus on the body. Pictures/videos included. Please move this thread to an appropriate area if this does not work, there's not really an introduction area.

Here is a lackluster Firebird that I picked up for only $500. yes! The price is right. And so I warned my pending-wife that I will be missing for several months. Okay, I'll be in at night! My 91 Pathfinder is a slow beast, but great for groceries. It's been 3-4 years since I've had an actual project, and I couldn't pass this up.

Here are some photos of it. I'll try to keep everything in this thread. Some sanding and pin striping removal has been done. Body work will be updated in this thread, same as painting process.

T-tops, power windows/locks, power seat, LU9 Crossfire injected 305 with 170K, automatic, 4-wheel disc brakes, and running somehow. It runs really well and pulls hard, but smokes. I think valve stem seals are shot and heads need rebuilt. But, the whole engine will come out if I'm doing that. I'm wondering if it's ever been rebuilt, I've never seen a 305 last this long. Especially in a thrasher [Maybe somebody took care of this very well once upon a time]. Oil pressure is high, 50+

The tilt steering column is WAY loose, the steering wheel needs to be turned quite a ways to keep going straight. It tracks nicely. Power steering pump is dead dead dead, dead battery, ignition timing was at 0 Degrees [lol], uncapped ports on the TB's that were open, power window motors are shot, rear hatch leaks [fixed], windshield wiper switch is dead, radiator hose was leaking, and drivers side door is sagging. Dash lights are out, console lights are out, the blinkers work but sometimes illuminate solid on the dash. The dash and headliner are great, but everything else interior-wise needs help. I will replace idler arm, ball joints, all bushings, tie rod ends, get new tires and an alignment and see if it tracks any better. Also new calipers/rotors all the way around, as it brakes very poorly.

After about $500 in parts [my complete list], I think it will be a decent runner. I may attempt to replace valve stem seals and see how long the 305 will last ! Of course while I build my 350 on the bench. If I can squeeze 20mpg out of a rebuilt 305 I may really opt for that, and retain the crapfire setup [I do like it that much!]

Here I am removing pin striping:

Here's the Crossfire Injectors running, it's really neat. I wish it wasn't such a flop
And body pictures. A few areas have been sanded. To the right of the rear tail light, passenger side, there is a small crunch in the body contour. Bah. Driver's side door has scraped along a guardrail or something. I may just replace the door.

Note: Sitting next to the Firebird: 66 Ford Galaxie 500, 70 Dodge Challenger





















Thanks for looking!

Eric-86sc

iTrader: (18)

Looks like a great project. Just a heads up that car is probably a trans am. Has the crossfire injection, powerbulge hood, fender vents, and TA "tinted" tail lights. I doubt someone would put that much effort into swapping all those parts on a base firebird.

tunatrky

And here is my grab list for this car since it's been sitting for almost a year, and has been very neglected:

BrakeBest - Brake Caliper [Front] $19.99 Each [$55+ Rear]

BrakeBest Select - Brake Rotor And Hub Assembly $27.99 Each [$35.99 rear]

BrakeBest - Wheel Cylinder $8.99 Each

MasterPro Belt/Hose - Radiator Hose Upper $8.99 Each

MasterPro Belt/Hose - Radiator Hose Lower $12.99 Each

MasterPro Power Steering - Power Steering Pump - $40.99

OmniSpark - Spark Plug Wire Set $21.99 per Set

Spark plugs - $24

oil change - $25

MasterPro Ignition - Distributor Cap $12.99 Each

MasterPro Ignition - Distributor Rotor $8.49 Each

Fel-Pro High Performance - Valve Stem Seal Set $1.99 Each

Exhaust manifold gaskets - $10

Thermostat - $3.99

MasterPro Chassis - Ball Joint [Press In] $13.99 per Box

MasterPro Chassis - Tie Rod End [Outer] $14.99 per Box

MasterPro Chassis - Idler Arm $27.99 per Box

MasterPro Bearing/Seal - Wheel Bearing - Rear - $9.99 Each

MasterPro Bearing/Seal - Wheel Bearing And Race Set - Front Outer $4.29 Each MasterPro Bearing/Seal - Wheel Bearing And Race Set - Front inner - $5.69 Each

BesTest - Starter $42.99 Each

MasterPro Water Pump - Water Pump $23.99 Each

Belt - Air Pump - $4.99

Belt - Power Steering - $4.99

Belt - Fan/Alt - $4.99

EGR Valve

Roughly $600+ in parts just to get a lot of stuff back into proper working order! I will be back to post along the way of this project, most likely next week!

tunatrky

Oh thanks! I'll have to update a few things then. I didn't realize that it's a Trans Am. Still getting acquainted, have been doing much reading here As far as I can tell, it hasn't been tampered with very much. Just an old stocker!

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

subscribed

tunatrky

The gasket inside of the master cylinder reservoir lid was crushed from being installed improperly. Bah.

ts to bank to the right while driving, so it's time to inspect the front end. I'll do a basic visual inspection, and see what exactly happened. Hope nothing's bent! I've been happy with this specimen so far.

-Tuna

tunatrky

I was way too quick to jump the gun! My brakes are horrible. I bled the rears [previous owner says he replaced rear calipers and pads, I don't think he held the button below the master cylinder]. Now I'll bleed all four, several times. The brake booster looks ancient, but I think it's building a little bit of pressure. Sure is receiving good vacuum. The local junk yard only has a 92 Firebird But I'll see what I can salvage.

Hopefully I can remedy this today!

On another note, my rear hatch leaked where the spoiler meets the glass. I installed a piece of rope seal I had lying around, and no leaks so far

tunatrky

All right. I stripped the steering column to fix the wobble. All was fine until it came time to remove the tilt pins. I bought the special tool. Left side pin came out, but wouldn't come out all of the way. Not sure if that is right.

Right side pin, the tool broke. The bolts inside of the pins, and they won't drill out. I bought some titanium drill bits and it will NOT drill out.

I'm buying a new steering column and swapping now. I wish I could complain to the tool company for such a shoddy tool. I didn't even begin to apply pressure and it snapped

tunatrky

Rather than column swap, I tightened up all of the tilt bolts I could find. It's like new!

My starter failed, so shes's up on jack stands now. The first tow ride home! Front passenger caliper is frozen, it won't engage the brakes. It pulls to the right, but I don't see any obvious bushing failure in the front end.

Next up is the brake system rebuild and suspension attention

85f-bird

Been through a pulling car myself at one point, check the soft brake lines from the hard-lines to the rotor opposite the direction of pull...found long ago that one of my lines was deteriorating and causing it to pull in the direction of the better line / brake. Pulled off both sets of lines and replaced, flushed system, bled, and back in business.

BTW -

Have you pulled off all the pinstirping yet? I think the pinstriping really sets apart those early generation firebirds...not something you'll see on the later model cars, but it really fits the early gen birds. Would be slick to see it in repaint, color of your choice, with a new set of body striping.

tunatrky

Thanks! The soft brake lines are split on mine. Photos and installation tomorrow.. I will have the verdict. I purchased lines, rotors, pads, and calipers for the front. All are in very, VERY bad shape.

BTW, I removed pin striping on one side. I took photos of all of the striping in case I wanted to pinstripe it again. I used to do vinyl work and striping, and pin striping sounds tedious yet rewarding I see the errors on this pin stripe job, and I found over spray as if it had been repainted before. I bet the pin striping looks sharp on a fresh paint job.

tunatrky

Had her towed home when the starter went out. Turns out the starter bolts were too long for whatever reason. I installed a new starter, just because. I also purchased an Optima Redtop battery, because I've always wanted one. 1000CCA. Mean sob. My car still wasn't braking very well, and I found a frozen caliper, ABSOLUTELY RUINED rotors, and pads that were almost down to metal with split open brake lines on both sides. SAFETY HAZARD!




I pulled the steering wheel, and went to repair the wobble in my tilt column. The circlip used to retain the lockplate is a PAIN! Luckily I had my c-clip pliers from my RC truck projects. The type with removable prong-like ends did not work. I had to use ones that had 1/4" jaws on them. Worked like a charm.




I repaired my tilt steering column, however my tilt pin remover broke off in one pin. I've heard of people using specialty drill bits and drill presses to drill out the tilt pin. I tried a diamond tip blade and a drill, and I could not drill out the stud or the pin.



After this, I literally tightened the only inverted hex bolt I could reach and reassembled. Steering column is tight for now, but I'll be replacing the steering column before this one can work its way loose. There was metal damage on the steering wheel teeth, and I'm not sure why.


I found a frozen caliper front-passenger. It wouldn't engage the brakes. I soaked everything in PBR for several days as I knew I didn't have time to touch it. Unfortunately my caliper didn't unfreeze. I replaced driver's side caliper because the piston boot was ragged, and the bleeder screw was MASHED. It was an oval by the time I got to it.

I replaced both front calipers, rotors, brake pads, and brake lines. Both rubber brake lines were cut and worn through, and I was worried not only that they would leak eventually, but that pressure was building up and swelling like a bubble causing some brake performance issues.

I identified the rear brake calipers were replaced fairly recently. The rotors could use a turn. Pads were in good shape, no uneven wearing. New e-brake brackets on both sides. This is when I found I have a new Magnaflow dual exhaust, and it does sound good. Quiet in the car, bit of a throaty note under acceleration.

My e-brake needs to be man-handled to engage. It needs to come up ALL the way before it begins to grip. I figure the cable is stretched. I haven't tried to adjust the e-brake mechanism yet, but I'll try.





Up next, identifying why my car pulls to the right while driving - not braking. Followed by interior restoration, suspension work, plasti-dip extravaganza [don't judge me ] and engine build [Some of these will take me a few months to get to]