Just started painting parts on my car, Its a Hot rod satin black currently but switching over to a medium charcoal grey metallic. I just painted the doors a few days ago as I found donor doors to convert my formula to a TA GFX. I did the body work on the doors and rebuilt the hinges etc and sealed them. I Sprayed them with Summits brand of 1 stage urethane paint which has gloss in it. I could leave it like that but it has some orange peel and Not sure if I want to sand it and spray a coat of clear as well. The perfectionist in me says I should but idk if its worth it. I have limited space and funds and I shot the doors in an open tent which has some small stuff blow on it as it was driving. I know if I add a coat of clear it would allow me to buff and such but idk if thats all necessary lol. This car is just a fun car and is only taken out in the summer to shows just to look at other cars. So its not a show stopper but want it to look pretty good. Any thoughts? I would wash and wax it during the summer months so I would love for it to wax and look good. Maybe the orange peel would cause problems that way.

Just seems like a lot of extra work to rewet sand everything and shoot clear, then buff and polish it all out and hope I don't screw that up and burn through lol.

Also what do you guys recommend for wet sanding the base/clear before shooting with clear on top? 1000 grit? 1200? then shoot the clear? Need to figure out what Im going to do as I need to put the new locks, handles and new weatherstripping on them and get them back on the car. To make room for the fenders and bumpers that need paint and body work.

Here are some pics of the doors and how they came out.

 

I would not sand a metallic, you will cut into the flakes. I always clear after a metallic base coat.

 

correct do NOT wet sand metallic paint. you will blow off the flakes. Put 3 coats of clear and wet sand that with 1500 then 3000 then buff out.

 

Right, you can't sand and buff or sand and clear single stage metallic paint

 

So I should shoot over it with clear and then wet sand and buff? will the orange peel from the initial coat show through the coats of clear even if I wet sand it?

Thanks guys.

 

So yesterday I decided to just clean the doors off and shot it with 2 coats of clear. Looks wet, so hopefully I can sand/buff and make it look "alittle" better lol.

 

If you scuffed (not sanded) it hard enough to scratch it up but light enough to not move or cut down the metallics before you cleared then you may be alright, but if you just shot clear over it as it was then it will peel off eventually.

 

You have a window. Your flash time, dust free time ect if you pass that window for clear the bond will never be as strong as it could have been. Sure scuffing it up to allow the paint to grip/bite helps but not as good as a chemical bond.

I have sprayed both summits bc/cc system and single stage. Ill tell you right now the single stage looks killer but is a pita to keep up with. The chemical resistance sucks and its soft. It picks up particles, fallout, contaminants ect. and it is aggravating going over it with the clay and buffer if you don't keep it waxed thoroughly.

bc/cc is great. I have shot the high solids clear and its tough as nails. It dries thin though so put on a few coats. One light base two medium mid coats and 2-3 heavy final coats.



Engine bay was shot with single stage and no clear. Body was shot with bc/cc

 

THats a clean camaro!

Thanks, I did not do much to the doors but degrease them and I know I waited to long for the flash time as I was unsure what the finish would look like with the single stage. The high solids clear I did 3 coats, one light and 2 heavy… and even if I can't wet sand and get it mirror quality (too much **** blowing around into the paint) then I know it will at least be a strong finish. The heavy solid clear seems very TOUGH!!

Anyone know what the flash time is from the single stage to a coat or 2 of clear? Im currently only using (and only have) the fast activator (good for like 60*F-70*F) but can be used in warmer temps but you can't shoot a whole car with it as it cures to fast. So Im going to be doing small pieces at a time. So I did the doors and door GFX and fender vents. Next I will be doing the fenders. Then perhaps front bumper and hood and rear wing. Then I will piece it together. I know in 60-70*F temps it was still tacking a few hours out after shooting it… so I know I have at least that long for a chemical bond. I know I want the metallic single stage to setup good and just be tacky before shooting the clear.

Not looking for a show room finish, just something I can wax and look decent while holding up to the elements. Problem is its starting to get hot around here 80*F temps.