Hey Guys,

What do you recommend I do with these?

Looks isn't a big deal, most of the rust is going to be underneath GTA ground fx.

How do I treat it/keep it from rusting again?

 

Something like that I would replace the whole piece, or weld in a patch panel.
If you are set on using that as is, I would coat it in POR 15.

 

Yeah, I don't weld...
This is our replacement panel, haha.

 

Will this work to prime over\paint?

 

I would try media blasting or possibly something they call rust electrolysis. Not sure if you can do part of a panel on the latter.

 

Has anyone tried soaking in vinegar?

 

Order a new panel and just trash that one. Classic sells new front quaters at $150 a pop.
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro.../10081965.html

 

I will add though if you plan on getting the fender get more as it's shipped truck freight. So you'll want your money's worth out of it.

 

Yeah, but aftemarket from clasics for camaros sucks.not sure on gta... Like stated above, you need to media blast that and get into the pores. Get all the rust out. Or I think por15 will kill it.... But if you wont see that, you can por15 it, and then use filler (bondo) to smooth it out, prime/paint.

 

Got a new Aero wing, rear louvers and some other stuff off them and they were absolutely amazing in quality. Not sure what you are talking about. Heck my co-worker was able to get stuff for his 67 Firebird Sprint off them.

This is them.


But like I mentioned before if you do consider this buy more then just one fender as they will ship it truck freight.

Just a heads up I myself plan on getting the same fenders as you are because I too like the air vents.

 

rear aero wing and louvers are A LOT different than a fender my silly friend....

WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT is the fenders I'VE gotten and heard from other people here that classics fenders are junk. Mine was sooooo far off that if it had teeth, it could eat a apple through a chain link fence... Waste of money...

Maybe for gta's the fitment is better....

 

It's gonna be covered by ground fx, so unless it's going to bother you, I wouldn't worry about replacing it. It doesn't have any thru-holes. Spend some time with a wire wheel, prime it with some converter, let it sit for a day, repeat. Then give it a coat of paint and cover it over. It's just one of those things that noone will know about but you, and if you ever want to replace the fender you know that you can.

 

Clean it REALLY REALLY good, if you have access to an air compressor, buy a small sand blast tool from harbour freight or northern tools, blast the rust out of the pits, coat it with por15, this will stop the rust, then prime over the por15 and hit it with some spray paint. Do not leave any bare metal on any step.

 

I used the Loctite Extend Rust Treatment on mine.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/l...192/10189462-P

 

Great, this is what I needed, thanks guys!

 

Just throwing this in as an alternative to welding in patch panels. Had a couple of panels put in my S10 using this stuff and you can't tell the truck had any work done. No hot welding on your vehicle in tight spots. GM approves of it for this purpose.

http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/nr.php?id=7

 

Well, give us an update in six months to a year to see how long the product worked. I'm all for not welding but that metal looks badly contaminated.

I do hope it works out for ya.

Good luck!

 

If it was me I would blast it with a small gun, POR it, prime, filler, and finish it. I had the same issue on my '86 IROC and when it was done you never would have known it was there.

 

That doesn't look bad at all. Hit it with a wire wheel or buy one of the sand/abrasive blasters as mention and hit it up til it shines, slap some primer on and paint.

OR....wire wheel/blaster, rust treatment, por15. I honestly don't know if the por15 works, but I'm doing my floor pan with it now. I do know someone who did their trunk in a classic car and the rust, after 8 plus years, has never shown back through.

 

You still need to prime and paint after the por15.

 

Where would I get por15?

 

Anywhere that sells automotive paint. And I wanna say walmart sells it as well.

 

If the rust has not actually perforated through, good surface prep will suffice.
If you want a long-lasting repair, wire-wheels will not de-rust as well as
media blasting. If you have an air compressor, Harbor Freight has some
economy blasters. However, a modest sand-blaster will become as useful
as a power washer.

After de-rusting, there are several options available. POR-15 is an awesome
product, but needs a tie-coat if you want anything else to adhere to it.
Check out their web-site. Eastwood also offers a lot of good products, check
out their website. I personally would go w/ a type of epoxy primer, then
standard polyurethane paint primer.

If you have perforations, all bets are off. If anybody's interested, I can
share a tale of woe about that experience.

Good luck, and keep up posted.
kk

 

If you dont want to buy a blaster... get a couple gallons of muriatic acid and submerge/soak the rusty parts. They will be 100% clean/bare steal in a day. I clean my bolts and other small parts this way when I dont want to blast or its to hard to hold the piece..After a long soak, rinse with water. you must treat the bare steal immediately or it will surface rust.

When done with acid, pour it back into the jugs. you can reuse it a bunch.

 

I swear to god officer the barrels of acid in my back yard only have car parts in them............

 

Muratic acid is very mild. You can get it for really cheap too from fleet-farm...........in gallon jugs. Not a barrel... LOL funny.

I use it to clean lots of stuff. Its a fairly mild acid, so you can get away cleaning softer materials too.

I use electrolysis to clean metal too. Takes a while but it gets every piece of rust.