My build is getting to the point where I will be stripping the entire floor board (outside/inside, everything) and refinishing.

My plan is to strip every inch of the car down to metal, 2K epoxy prime, primer surfacer and paint/clear.

My original plan was to strip the floor, 2k epoxy prime, then 2K paint, then rubberized spray.
Then for the wheel wells, strip, 2K epoxy, U-POL bed liner.

Now I think I can get more robust results if I just do my wheel well plan for the entire under body.

Think this is a good idea? Pros, cons?

The car will be a second DD, so use it on nice days 3 seasons a year up here by Boston. Will be getting a new LS3/6 speed.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Personally, the all black texture treatment on the bottom looks a bit sloppy. It seems like it'd cover up everything and potentially make future maintenance more of a pain. For example, any future welding on the body will require stripping any coating off. When a textured coating gets dirty, it's often more difficult to clean than a smooth surface, since there are more places for dirt to hide.

I'm about finished stripping the underside of my project of all undercoating and rock guard etc. I'll probably end up reapplying the factory textured rock guard in the wheel wells, but I'm leaning towards leaving the rest of the underbody in semi-gloss gray. Not too sure what that semi-gloss gray will be, but the OE E-coat seems easier to keep clean, and makes it easy to spot problems.

 

Hey Drew, you make some great points.

I think I will stick with using bed liner only in the wheel tubs. Front and back.

Under the car I think I will strip, 2K epoxy, 2K primer, 2K paint, then rubberized undercoat...

How does that sound? Car will be garage kept. Really hoping I can find a clear and reliable way to do this with no rotisserie.

 

For cars that will not see salt and snow I suggest slathering brushable seam sealer on all the seams, epoxy primer if the factory finish is gone and then an easily repairable enamel with a hardener. Like drew said, undercoating makes it difficult to do future work and also it makes the bottom of the car very, very dark. You need more light to illuminate the bottom of a dark car than a light car. With a readily available enamel touch-up is a cinch. Enamel is not as chemical resistant but hey, it's easily repaired.

 

I used 3m spray on bed liner. It lays down really nice.

 

another pic to get a better idea of the texture. Its not as "bumpy" as other stuff ive seen out there

 

First off, great looking build possi. IRS, sweet.

back to undercoating...

I only have access to the car on jack stands in my garage. This will play a factor in what direction I go and what options I have.

what did you do to prep under the 3M?
how was it applied?

cost?

I was planning on using 2k aerosol cans so i can apply it laying on my back under the car.

car will not be driven thru snow, but early spring can still have salt around.

I do plan to seam seal... everything.

just thought it had to go on after epoxy, is that correct?

 

How far did you strip the car down for the 3M be liner material

 

I've been using spray on over a clean surface. Haven't driven the car much but it provides nice clean protection. Probably cheaper to get the brush on kind for floor-pans though.

 

I am pretty much in the same place. I wanna coat the underside of my car after i put sub frame connectors on and I am not sure that I wanna lay on my back with the car on jack stands using brushed on por-15. My car sat in the grass for a few years and the floor boards have some surface rust on them. No rot just a little surface rust that i wanna stop, any ideas on treating it?

 

I did the undercoating project back in 2010 and mine is still holding up VERY well. I used POR-15 after grinding the underside undercoating off to bare metal. also did the interior floorpans.

here is my thread with plenty of photos and a lot of writing

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ame-floor.html
edit: damn the photibucket disaster strikes again...


this page on my website has the photos:
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/2010.htm