IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

Well, after I had the full S&W racing subframe kit installed in the car I was able to begin the tedious task of redoing the undercoating on the vehicle. I jacked up the car, laid down some plastic on the ground, bought a whole assortment of wire wheels, sanding sheets, wire brushes, etc and got to work. I began by removing a bunch of the rubberized undercoating using a heat-gun and a putty-knife/scraper combination. This took a while and sure was messy. I then got my hand-drill and worked with the different array of wire wheels. I had to rip off all the remaining undercoating, factory paint and primer...so that the metal under most of the car was down to complete bare sheetmetal. Some areas were very difficult to reach. (for this project I concentrated on everything rearward from the firewall and rear of the engine..I did not drop the rear end and did not drop the fuel tank...when I replace the rear end, I will sand and undercoat above it).

photos below show the exposed bare metal under the car. the black bars are the subframe kit.

















after the metal was stripped down, i went to the POR-15 headquarters in Morristown Nj and checked out a bunch of their products. I bought the "marine clean" metal cleaner, the "metal-Ready" phosphate metal prep solution, and a quart of semi-gloss black POR-15 metal undercoating. anywhere this paint is, even if there was rust to begin with... it will never grow; ever. applying this stuff was messy. as it says in the instructions .. if it gets on ur skin, get it off asap. otherwise it wont come off..it has to wear off. i did two complete coats, using a variety of hair and foam brushes. turned out awesome and it is strong too. total cost for the products was under $60, but it will only work correctly if you follow the exact directions.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

i also puilled out all the floor drains and whatnot and coated them, then sealed everything up with some RTV.






I also sanded down the interior floorpans a bit and coated them with a different product. I used a similar product to POR-15, but since the interior floor should never see any liquid.. I went with a product I got for free from a mechanic buddy of mine - Hammerite Rust Cap, gloss black - . It worked great. It was thick to brush on, but I can tell it is solid too. Pics are kinda blurry - sorry, but you can get the point.











I did a bunch of research online and compared product quality with cost and overall effectiveness when choosing a sound-deadener material for the FLOOR of my car. I will later be doing the inside of the door panels and the rear wheel-well areas another time, but for now I wanted to only tackle the floor. I went with a product called RAAmmatt 60BXT. I got a great deal and was able to cover the entire floor 1 1/2 times. (the 1/2 time is where i doubled up the layers on the transmission tunnel and driveshaft hump because those areas are noisy. Now, let it be clear that I am NOT trying to make this car sound proof with the windows closed because that would be silly. My goal was to use the sound deadener to reduce the road noise, mini squeaks and rattles, and the noise that comes from the rear end gears. This product worked great and was super easy to install. There is really no science to it, just cut a piece, fit it up, when it seems to fit good, peel the material off (to expose the black sticky side) leaving the shiny side up, press on, and rub/press the material down. You can overlap areas and cut it to whatever shape works. You have to think ahead and also cut out holes in the material for anything (bolts, wire clamps, seatbelt holes) that will need to accessed later, but thats easy.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

Since I had the interior out and did the rustproofing, sound-deadener, subframe work..... I had to pull out the original carpet. It was faded from 23 years of use and sun so I gave it to a buddy who needed it for his camaro. I ordered a new passanger compartment carpet from 1A-Auto for a good price. The measurments and curves were spot on. It IS an ACC carpet! Below are pics of the install, which is straightforward, but you have to cut holes in it for the seatbelts, seat mounts, and around the area of the center console. Cutting through the carpet is easy, but cutting through the fabric backing/padding is aggrevating. In some pics the carpet looks grey due to the sunlight or camera flash, but it's actually a solid rich black color. Now that the carpet is in, I was able to toss in the rear seats, neatly run the wires for the sounds system (and install it again), and regroup other wires in the transmission and stereo area to be much neater.
















... now im just waiting on the driver's seat to get a few areas patched so i can put it back in and drive the car all over for the next 6 months

lonesomeloser

Looks great!

skinny z

That does look good.
I've heard that POR 15 tends to have a brown tint to it compared to other undercoatings/rustproofings. How did you find it?
The carpet looks pretty nice too. I'm at the same stage as you were in the first pics. I'll look into the sound deadener as well. Cheaper than Dynamat?

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Where did you get the RAAmatt from?

Awesome-X

Definitely looks great. And a good call on replacing the carpet as well.

TimeTraveller

Looks like you had the same problem I had. Dinged up subframe from someone who didn't know how to use a lift

kevmann

That looks really nice. I replaced the floor on one side of my car and I am getting ready to do that. I have one question though. With the Por-15 and sound deadener, how much more quiet is it when it comes to keeping out road noise and stuff?

Kevin

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

Carpet looks great! I look forward to doing mine up this spring, but gotta wait for the new engine to make its way in first.

also found out the hard way about por-15 myself. painted up a 9-bolt prior to installing on my old car. dropped it on my leg when I went to move it. couldn't get that stuff off my thigh for a month!

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

thanks guys.

skinnyz: well i went with the semi-gloss black color of the por-15 and when looking at it..it looks black. i think if i were to take a light or flashlight under the car and then look at it trhe color may appear diffferent but it might be a trick of the eye. since it's underneath the car and not visible i think the color is great. another thing i spoke to the por15 salesguy in person about...is that it is UV sensitive, and if UV/sun rays contact it for a LONG period of time, the color will change/fade, but since it's underneath i should never have that issue.

gregsZ28: i got the raammatt directly from Rick at http://www.raamaudio.com/ hes a good guy to deal with.

time traveler: yea i am the second owner of the car and i noticed that the previous owner or a mechanic had kinked that area of the "frame" somehow. it was only recently when i did the subframe that it was all worked back into shape .

kevman: the car is a bunch more quiet. the por15 probably did nothing to reduce road noise, but the raammatt sure did. obviously the more layers you add the better it will work, but when im driving the car around i can hear the exhaust nice and clear but i dont hear the "whine" of tires. also the new carpeting and foam padding underneath it also will help.

1ADan: thanks for the carpet sale too. as i mentioned above, the measurments for the carpet were spot on. very good product. and yes, that por15 paint will stick on you for a LONG time if you dont get to wipe it off first. i was wearing a full set of coveralls, goggles, and a dust mask, and gloves, but when ur workign upside down its no fun when u bang your head into a painted area and have to quickly get out and douse your face/hair with thinners so that you dont have to call out of work for a week with fresh paint tattoos

thx for the comments everyone, if you have more questions or anyhtign post 'em up

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link!

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Finally, someone posted good shots and a full review on doing the floorpans. Looks great and will be using these pictures to show a shop how to do mine.

Did you remove: Fuel/brake lines, dash, gas/brake pedals, transmissions, exahust, driveshaft etc.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Damn I'm jealous! I'm actually on the POR15 website right now! How much POR15 did it take to do the whole underbody? 1-2 quarts i imagine?

Also, What IH8WWD said... Did you remove any of the underbody components before doing this?? That is the primary reason i've been neglecting this.. I just see all those things being a b*tch to paint around!

70GTO

My hat's off to you man, "you're an absolute sandin fool" I really admire your attention to detail and the end result really shows....Nice job!
Thanks for all of the pictures throughout the entire process. It's really inspiring and shows what some good ol fashioned elbow grease renders.

Bruce (70GTO)

NoCal91Convert

POR actually likes a bit of rust to stick to. As it says in the instructions, get the loose stuff off, but it is very OK to paint over rust. Thats what POR stands for. Also, it is very intolerant to UV rays and will fade quickly in the sun, but you can easily paint over it with a rattle can UV resistant black paint.

I might add that a little POR goes a very long way.

The resto looks fantastic and you have my complete admiration.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

thanks again

i did not remove the transmission, driveshaft or rear end. i did pull the fuel and brake lines off from their brackets and away but did not remove them. i ended up sanding them down as well and painting them too. i used 1 (one) quart of the POR15,... did two complete coats underneath... and the kit i bought came with one spray bottle of marine clean and one spray bottle of metal-ready. which i used about 1/2 - 3/4 of the contents. yes it was a lot of elbow grease. so far i have put a lot of miles on the car, and no flaking of the por-15 even in the areas near the hot exhaust. the reason i did not remove the dash and transmission is beacuse those areas should not see any water or moisture. period. if i end up having to pull the trans at a later date i will prob sand hte metal down and undercoat there.. but i had zero rust in that area so i didnt touch up there

i know that por-15 likes rough surfaces with some tooth to stick to, but i went to the por-15 headquarters here in NJ and spoke to a rep. he showed me some samples of where bare metal was painted. and when it was done right with proper perp (metal ready, rinse etc)

since its all under the car it will never see sunlight so the u-v rays shouldnt effect the color . the sales reps gave me a bunch of directions on how the products work, how to prep, and what to do so i followed them to the T.

chevysquid

iTrader: (7)

Thats a sweet headlight **** you rigged up! Any details?

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

thanks , yea the original headlight **** was worn and faded. i found that chevy bowtie piece in one of my uncle's old toolboxes, it used to be the air cleaner (carb) hold-down for his pro-street 1975 camaro. i think i have seen them on yearone, or classic industries site/magazine for sale for under $10. you can prob buy on there and then just pull the old **** off and mount that one however works for you, weld, epoxy, jb weld, some crazy latch setup, etc

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

My hat's off to you man! I sold my 86 cause I'm at a point in my life where I have more money than time...so I found a car that needs absolutely nothing! Not to change topics, but how do you like the s&w setup? I plan on (sometime) installing it on the t-top car I just bought.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Hey! I just finished doing mine similar to yours! I'm posting it in another thread, but I have a question... They said to do 2 coats, but i did not. I only did one coat but it still looks solid (i don't drive in rain/snow ever). I put it on pretty thick... Is two coats really necessary?

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

well i do not think its absolutley necessary,, but i think on the can i read 2 coats. probably just to ensure that ll the spots are covered witht he proper thickness of material. im sure you willbe fine with 1 caot, especially if u used the prep solutions and adheared the coat thick. post a link here to your post with pics

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ml#post4668217

There's a link... The pics aren't really that clear.. It was late and I was probly high off of the fumes from painting all day lol.. I don't ever drive it in rain so it never gets wet.. I'm pretty sure I painted it on pretty thick, I think it should be fine too.

BigRogZ28

Hey IROCZman15, can you give me any hints or tips for the carpet installation? I've got a new set for mine, and I'm having trouble with the passenger area. It seems that it'll fit okay, but it has really big wrinkles in it that keep it from fitting down on the floor nice and smooth like yours. By the way, you did an AWESOME job on your car man!!

The Project

iTrader: (6)

If you go slow and make sure you have FULL coverage...you will be fine with one coat. I used one coat on my engine bay and rad cradle and it coame out great. Cant see the POR thru the paint.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

thanks man, what kind and brand of carpet did you buy and from where? is it molded to fit the floorpan of the car....or is it just a piece of flat carpet. if its flat, it wil be very hard to get the wrinkles out. but if its a molded and shaped piece of carpet with the backing on the underside..

..start from the center, (the shifter and center console area). work outwards towards the front, rear and sides of the car. the molded piece should basically fit in place, .. (for mine i had to cut holes for where the seatbelt receivers mount and i had to open up the center hold for the shifter/ebrake with cutting the carpet a little bit).

with the stock carpet, they used some type of sticky pad/glue in the 4 foot areas. you can use this appraoch to keep the carpet from sliding around and keeping the wrinkles down too. i used a few dabs of contact cement. putting some contact-cement on the back of the carpet and also on the top of the sound deadener, and when you stick them together, it will hold (after drying for a few mins). that should keep the wrinkles down. also make sure you secure the edges of the carpet with the rocker trim covers by the doors, and the plastic push tabs up front.

camaro1122

iTrader: (1)

Hey nice job, old thread i know. Just to ask since im doing the por 15 in the tranny tunnel, what is that black cylinder thing in the 3rd pic? Is that the return fuel line? When i was painting i saw that my line was pinched shut, just wondering what that is.

majobis

iTrader: (3)

Iroczman15, I didn't bother going with an upgraded stereo system in my car mainly due to the t-tops and windows being always open when I drive but I just wanted to comment on your rear hatch area; it's probably the nicest looking stereo filled hatch I've seen yet. Nice work.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

majobis - thanks for the compliments. all of those stereo compnonets work togetther really well too so the sound is great.

camaro1122 - if you are talking about teh silver canister looking thing with the line going in and out of it... almost directly in the center of the 3rd pic.. that is the fuel filter. its the stock style filter. one line goes in, then comes out. its threaded on. yours is pinched shut? that doesnt sound good. what exactly do you mean pinched shut?

camaro1122

iTrader: (1)

Here i snapped a few pics.

camaro1122

iTrader: (1)

Also just to ask, since i painted with a weird sponge brush it didnt go on smooth. There are line marks and what not from that brush, is this okay?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

thats the fuel feed line, you should fix that, its defiantly hurting the car.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

agreed. that is your fuel line theer. with it crushed like that your fuel is not getting the proper flow from the pump to the motor. fixing is is a MUST. you can buy pre-bent fuel lines from places that will be the best fix. dont try to un-kink that, cuz the metal the lines are made out of is weak and brittle. it will probably split open and then your in worse shapre. get a prebent line . the brush marks are fine. it doenst have to be completley even and smooth.. its only an undercarriage

camaro1122

iTrader: (1)

Where would i get those prebent lines from? Could you give me a link? Also the line isnt twisted, its like getting a hammer and a flat head, placting the flat head in the center of the line and wacking it with the hammer. It doesnt look like someone screwed up when changing the filter....Looks deliberately done because when i first got the car two years ago it ran very strong and after a few months it ran like crap, it stalled on every street , etc.

cookie21

iTrader: (2)

IROCZMAN15- Thanks for a great thread with great info! I have all my interior stripped out and was thinking of doing the dynamat / RAAmatt.... i read thru and may have missed it but where did you get the RAAmatt? and if the carpet fits that good ill get mine from 1Aauto as well, im replacing all grey interior with black. Great work man your car looks amazing!

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

i got the raammatt directly from Rick at http://www.raamaudio.com/ hes a good guy to deal with. im glad i installled it. i can def notice a difference

Stonehenge

iTrader: (3)

Dan if you don't mind me asking.. i'm about to get some carpet from you guys but I'm wondering.. How do you guys remove those two patches of felt-like material that seems to be glued to my floor with space-shuttle grade glue..? When I pulled up my carpet to do my floors I found one on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. Looks like some sort of felt pad, about 4" X 6"

Stone

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

most end up leaving those there because they're a bit of a headache. you can try using a heat gun/hair dryer to try and loosen up the glue, but you may be stuck going at it with a scraper and some goo gone

Hal87

iTrader: (1)

IIRC...from doing my son's '87, the floor pan plugs are under those two patches on the floor. If you're not careful taking off the heavy sealant, you can pull out and/or damage the plugs