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I know how to paint and have painted a few cars and lots of panels. I have decent at home painting guns but I'm like you I'm not a Pro so a few tips about the process; Prep work is arguably the most critical step so take your time and use a name brand prep all. Preferably the same manufacturer as your paint. Buy good tape if you need it and wear gloves while and after prepping. For spraying it's OK to have runs, sags, drips or orange peel when spraying primer and clear because you can just sand it out. I usually try to spray a run or sag when starting so I know the limit for my gun and conditions with the product. Spraying extra is far preferable to not enough and sanding through. A pro or shop owner would have nearly the exact opposite opinion but if you're not a pro this works better. With color though I spray it dry and spray three coats. This gets me coverage and greatly reduces the chance of a run or sag in the color coat, which is a giant pain to deal with.
I know how to paint and have painted a few cars and lots of panels. I have decent at home painting guns but I'm like you I'm not a Pro so a few tips about the process; Prep work is arguably the most critical step so take your time and use a name brand prep all. Preferably the same manufacturer as your paint. Buy good tape if you need it and wear gloves while and after prepping. For spraying it's OK to have runs, sags, drips or orange peel when spraying primer and clear because you can just sand it out. I usually try to spray a run or sag when starting so I know the limit for my gun and conditions with the product. Spraying extra is far preferable to not enough and sanding through. A pro or shop owner would have nearly the exact opposite opinion but if you're not a pro this works better. With color though I spray it dry and spray three coats. This gets me coverage and greatly reduces the chance of a run or sag in the color coat, which is a giant pain to deal with.
All that makes sense. I am no expert at all, HAHA. just very handy so I am told. Remodeled most of my house, fix my cars about 95% of the time. So this is a labor of love I guess. Gonna take my time, etc. Can you tell me what is the best flex agent to add to Eastwood single stage paint? Also, my new spoiler is fiberglass( Hawks) and the bumpers are obviously urethane. Do I need to add the flex agent to the spoiler? Being its white, should I pre-paint the spoiler with something else being it will be painted black?
I know how to paint and have painted a few cars and lots of panels. I have decent at home painting guns but I'm like you I'm not a Pro so a few tips about the process; Prep work is arguably the most critical step so take your time and use a name brand prep all. Preferably the same manufacturer as your paint. Buy good tape if you need it and wear gloves while and after prepping. For spraying it's OK to have runs, sags, drips or orange peel when spraying primer and clear because you can just sand it out. I usually try to spray a run or sag when starting so I know the limit for my gun and conditions with the product. Spraying extra is far preferable to not enough and sanding through. A pro or shop owner would have nearly the exact opposite opinion but if you're not a pro this works better. With color though I spray it dry and spray three coats. This gets me coverage and greatly reduces the chance of a run or sag in the color coat, which is a giant pain to deal with.
Gotta say, I strongly disagree with the advice to spray the clear so heavy it runs. I get what you're saying about avoiding dry spots, but I really think he should be aiming for 'just right'. If he doesn't learn to dial in the clear and sprays it till it runs he may run it so bad that some panels need a full redo. I know I have before. Also black is unforgiving when it comes to mistakes. I think it will be nearly impossible for him to them out without any sign of them having been there.
As far as avoiding runs and dry spray, aside from gun setup and practice, I recommend getting as good of lighting as you can in that inflatable booth. You want to be able to see every inch of what you spraying while you're spraying it. I move my whole body with the gun and keep the refection of the clear in my sight so I know if its looking to dry or too wet. Stoop down on the floor while painting the lower parts so you can see, otherwise you may as well paint it with your eyes closed. Find out what the flash time is on the clear and err on the side of caution. If the flash time is 5-10 mins, go with 10. That'll give the clear more time set up and will be less likely to run.
Without reading all the comments ill say.i just primed an painted my trans am in my driveway 4 weeks ago with a 80$ pop up tent an tarps from harbor freight with a 25 gallon air tank an 50$ harbor freight spay gun.now my car was apart just doors on it the rest was painted separate. I did have to take lil breaks in between when painted the body so the compressor could catch up but other then that it came out awesome for never painting a car before..its all in the prep work on how its gonna come out..
Gotta say, I strongly disagree with the advice to spray the clear so heavy it runs. I get what you're saying about avoiding dry spots, but I really think he should be aiming for 'just right'. If he doesn't learn to dial in the clear and sprays it till it runs he may run it so bad that some panels need a full redo. I know I have before. Also black is unforgiving when it comes to mistakes. I think it will be nearly impossible for him to them out without any sign of them having been there.
As far as avoiding runs and dry spray, aside from gun setup and practice, I recommend getting as good of lighting as you can in that inflatable booth. You want to be able to see every inch of what you spraying while you're spraying it. I move my whole body with the gun and keep the refection of the clear in my sight so I know if its looking to dry or too wet. Stoop down on the floor while painting the lower parts so you can see, otherwise you may as well paint it with your eyes closed. Find out what the flash time is on the clear and err on the side of caution. If the flash time is 5-10 mins, go with 10. That'll give the clear more time set up and will be less likely to run.
Yes I dont want to deal with under or overspray. That is my primary concnern as well being black is very unforgiving. Just going to take it slow and 1 part of the car at a time. Thanks for the advise!
Without reading all the comments ill say.i just primed an painted my trans am in my driveway 4 weeks ago with a 80$ pop up tent an tarps from harbor freight with a 25 gallon air tank an 50$ harbor freight spay gun.now my car was apart just doors on it the rest was painted separate. I did have to take lil breaks in between when painted the body so the compressor could catch up but other then that it came out awesome for never painting a car before..its all in the prep work on how its gonna come out..
Man your TA looks AMAZING! Really nice work. This is a confidence builder for me. I am going to paint it in parts as well. Getting really fired up for this!
OK so the first thing I am going to sand, prime, paint and clear are the bumpers then the new Hawks aerowing fiber glass spoiler. They sold me a spray that goes on the bumpers only that will allow the paint to stick better. My question is, being the tech was a bit unclear, is what if any flex agent should I add to the primer, base and clear?
I am getting all the paint from Eastwood, so i ordered their opoxy primer and high build primer. which one should i use on the bumpers and for that matter the spoiler before the base?
Sorry I just want to do this right. I want to also start a new thread detailing the paint job.
Gotta say, I strongly disagree with the advice to spray the clear so heavy it runs. I get what you're saying about avoiding dry spots, but I really think he should be aiming for 'just right'. If he doesn't learn to dial in the clear and sprays it till it runs he may run it so bad that some panels need a full redo.
I think you may be misinterpreting my advice. I'm not saying to spray to achieve runs all over the place. I'm stating that a couple of runs/sags/drips are far more preferable to sanding or polishing through the primer or clear. Theirs is no reason to be afraid of them since they can be easily sanded out. If the panel has a long run or a couple sags then use a long board sander with some 800 grit to kncok it back down to flush with the rest of the clear on the surface and then polish. A wavy clearcoat is usually because people sand the primer with longboard sanders and then sand the clear coat with a little 2"x5" sanding block.
I recommend getting as good of lighting as you can in that inflatable booth. You want to be able to see every inch of what you spraying while you're spraying it. I move my whole body with the gun and keep the refection of the clear in my sight so I know if its looking to dry or too wet. Stoop down on the floor while painting the lower parts so you can see, otherwise you may as well paint it with your eyes closed. Find out what the flash time is on the clear and err on the side of caution. If the flash time is 5-10 mins, go with 10. That'll give the clear more time set up and will be less likely to run.
More solid advice. Last thing you want is to be spraying in the dark. To add to that, remember to keep the gun 90* to the panel, get too crooked and thats how you run into runs (see what i did there)
Originally Posted by Hawkeye1980
OK so the first thing I am going to sand, prime, paint and clear are the bumpers then the new Hawks aerowing fiber glass spoiler. They sold me a spray that goes on the bumpers only that will allow the paint to stick better. My question is, being the tech was a bit unclear, is what if any flex agent should I add to the primer, base and clear?
I am getting all the paint from Eastwood, so i ordered their opoxy primer and high build primer. which one should i use on the bumpers and for that matter the spoiler before the base?
Sorry I just want to do this right. I want to also start a new thread detailing the paint job.
Each paint is different. You should be able to find a product sheet with your paint, primer and clear that specifies whats needed and suggested. My PPG had me add flex additive to only the clear. Even then, it said if it was already installed on the vehicle, it wasnt needed. I did it anyway just in case i pull the bumper off to get to the intercooler down the road.
If the aero wing is fiberglass you'll be ok without flex additive. Fiberglass doesnt bend like rubber does. Epoxy primer is usually only used on metal surfaces to seal it from moisture. I would just verify your high build primer is good on rubber which most are.
My only current regret of my current paint, i wish i did 5 layers of clear. This would have given me more sanding room to get out imperfections. With that being said, we waited about 90 minutes between base coat and clear. After doing some reading about solvent pop, if you do 5 coats, give it more time than suggested. Solvent pop is when its sprayed too fast and cant evaporate properly before you coat it again, thus trapping in air bubbles, so more coats, take your time, let it flash.
More solid advice. Last thing you want is to be spraying in the dark. To add to that, remember to keep the gun 90* to the panel, get too crooked and thats how you run into runs (see what i did there)
Each paint is different. You should be able to find a product sheet with your paint, primer and clear that specifies whats needed and suggested. My PPG had me add flex additive to only the clear. Even then, it said if it was already installed on the vehicle, it wasnt needed. I did it anyway just in case i pull the bumper off to get to the intercooler down the road.
If the aero wing is fiberglass you'll be ok without flex additive. Fiberglass doesnt bend like rubber does. Epoxy primer is usually only used on metal surfaces to seal it from moisture. I would just verify your high build primer is good on rubber which most are.
My only current regret of my current paint, i wish i did 5 layers of clear. This would have given me more sanding room to get out imperfections. With that being said, we waited about 90 minutes between base coat and clear. After doing some reading about solvent pop, if you do 5 coats, give it more time than suggested. Solvent pop is when its sprayed too fast and cant evaporate properly before you coat it again, thus trapping in air bubbles, so more coats, take your time, let it flash.
Your 3rd gen looks amazing! I went through your store here on how you restored it, really awesome!
So its Christmas for me today! Got my spoiler from Hawks, wow is it LIGHT! Its a gray color as well. Eastwood primers and prep are in, as is a rolling hanger for the hood. Got the paint booth as well, just waiting on the 2 blowers.
So would i just sand the fiberglass spoiler down and paint the base direct? Or should i paint it with the epoxy primer first? I dont think it needs any high build primer.
For the bumpers I am still a bit confused. I am going to sand them with 180 grit and a DA. Once its sanded, how would i prime it? Epoxy, sand, then high build sand? then base sand, then clear sand? I would prefer a flex agent being I will be painting them off the car.
So would i just sand the fiberglass spoiler down and paint the base direct? Or should i paint it with the epoxy primer first? I dont think it needs any high build primer.
For the bumpers I am still a bit confused. I am going to sand them with 180 grit and a DA. Once its sanded, how would i prime it? Epoxy, sand, then high build sand? then base sand, then clear sand? I would prefer a flex agent being I will be painting them off the car.
I would at minimum hit it with the high build. Fiberglass is very porous and you might find spots you need to hit with spot putty (Spot putty goes between primer and paint layer.) Then wet sand the primer with 400 grit to prevent dust nibs in the primer that you will find when you wet sand the clear. 180 grit might be a bit much, i did mine with 320 and i did not hit the bumpers with the DA. I got about 2 seconds into the front bumper and i noticed it burned through clear, paint and primer on a corner by the center emblem, so I did mine by hand. They bend alot when their not bolted on.
Last edited by 86CamaroDan; 06-06-2019 at 07:54 AM.
I would at minimum hit it with the high build. Fiberglass is very porous and you might find spots you need to hit with spot putty (Spot putty goes between primer and paint layer.) Then wet sand the primer with 400 grit to prevent dust nibs in the primer that you will find when you wet sand the clear. 180 grit might be a bit much, i did mine with 320 and i did not hit the bumpers with the DA. I got about 2 seconds into the front bumper and i noticed it burned through clear, paint and primer on a corner by the center emblem, so I did mine by hand. They bend alot when their not bolted on.
Thanks man. All great advice. So speaking with Eastwood I will sand the body to metal, epoxy coat, then polyester coat, sand, get it nice, then epoxy coat to seal it before base. I will spray the aerowing with the poly and sand like you suggest. I will hand sand the bumpers as well. Eastwood said to just paint the bumpers with epoxy and that should be enough before base.
OK so I started on this project. I will be posting a new thread when time allows. Goal is to have it done by mid July weather permitting. Very excited and nervous. Eastwood tech support has be great, as has been this board.
05-31-2019, 04:42 PM
