broken trunk latch motor
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,541
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
broken trunk latch motor
hey guys
i have a broken trunk latch motor..................since the Z28 is mainly gonna be a street/strip car...........i wanna know if i can put in a non power hatch latch???
was there ever such a thing for 3rd gens??
will one from a 4th gen work???
i have a broken trunk latch motor..................since the Z28 is mainly gonna be a street/strip car...........i wanna know if i can put in a non power hatch latch???
was there ever such a thing for 3rd gens??
will one from a 4th gen work???
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
They have a different bolt mounting pattern. But I did pick up one from a Pick-A-Part that had the older style slam latch bolted onto the gutted frame of a pull-down style. It would take a little work to get the right height, but it can be done. Lon
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From: Lakewood, CO
Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
my car doesnt have that stupid trunk motor!
:lala:
i think 85' and older didnt have em.
i know your pain tho, i had problems with the trunk motor in my formula. The motor was broken so i just had to slam it REALLY hard.
:lala: i think 85' and older didnt have em.
i know your pain tho, i had problems with the trunk motor in my formula. The motor was broken so i just had to slam it REALLY hard.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Not necessarily. I can e-mail you some scans from my HELMs manual so you can diagnose and fix it. Also just dissabling the unit and slamming the hatch is a bad idea. The motor housing is plastic and attached to the frame with 3 screws. It will soon fail with the shock of slamming the hatch. Once broken away the unit will just float around loose. If you want to repair the hatch pull-down unit, parts are available (I stock them). I suppose I need to start offering a conversion kit for those that want to swap it out for the older slam latch style unit. That is a rigid metal unit and is up to the task. I'll pick up some more pre-86 latches my next trip to the Pick-A-Part and work on the conversion kit. Lon
Last edited by lonsal; Feb 22, 2002 at 12:53 AM.
On the brackets:
I retrofitted the Bose radio rear cover to mine, it had specific brackets that I cut from the donor with a chisel, then popriveted to mine, they're behind the taillites so they don't show.
The pulldown bracket, if riveted, would be covered by the license plate, and I'd suggest painting the drilled hole, for rustprevention, and the rivets after installation for appearance, as I did. This should allow retrofitting any hatch pulldown assembly I guess, without welding.
I ground a chisel specifically for this purpose, it now looks like a ramp (only 3 sides instead of 4) and works well to cut spotwelds.
Just a thought.
I retrofitted the Bose radio rear cover to mine, it had specific brackets that I cut from the donor with a chisel, then popriveted to mine, they're behind the taillites so they don't show.
The pulldown bracket, if riveted, would be covered by the license plate, and I'd suggest painting the drilled hole, for rustprevention, and the rivets after installation for appearance, as I did. This should allow retrofitting any hatch pulldown assembly I guess, without welding.
I ground a chisel specifically for this purpose, it now looks like a ramp (only 3 sides instead of 4) and works well to cut spotwelds.
Just a thought.
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