SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Now, I know the Rear's are the exact same as stock 89+ rears, but I want to get them anyway to have a complete kit w/o the hassel. As for the front, should I go w/ 12" or 13" rotors? Does the extra inch REALLY matter? This is a street car, and if it only does minor, I'd rather not have them b/c I am having concerns of the 13" fitting 17" Cragar SS rims.

Where could I get a 16" Spare from a 98+ Fourthgen that will clear the 12" rotors? I've heard it fits in the stock storage location as well.

Now, does Baer castings include the crossdrilled and slotted rotors? I really like the look, and think they'd look sweet behind the chrome rims. I heard it kills performance/they crack/etc. etc...I can't see them making them if they were that terrible. Even if it doesn't have a gain, as long as it's not WORSE than regular rotors.

The kits at Thunder Racing, do those come w/ the Eradispeed rotors? I tried contacting them, but they never get back to me. Any other place I could get both front and back kits cheap? I'd like crossdrilled/slotted/zinc coated rotors (if they don't kill performance)...and I'd also like some options for Caliper finish. I saw Kandied91Z had Chrome calipers, and that looked kewl. I'm still deciding on what to do, but would like some options when I order them.

Thanks for all your help!! It's greatly appreciated...

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

First off, Baer is overpriced.

That said, I'll answer your questions:

Fronts: Depends on what size rim you have. If you have 17" wheels, go with the 13"s. If you have 16"s, buy the 12"s. No fit problems with your 17" Cragars, 13"s will fit.

Dunno about the spare. Did you contact one of our sponsors at the top of the page?

You can upgrade to drilled/slotted rotors for an extra charge. According to Thunder's site, that's a $120 option, so add that to the $975 for the kit, PLUS the $150 core for your spindles....That's a grand total of $1245. Like I said...over priced. And no, they don't come with Eradispeed rotors. You'd have to buy those too. And that's before you throw in the price of your rear kit.

HTH...


Ed

PS: I also sent you a PM.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

ebmiller: Thanks for the info. However, I didn't receive your PM.

When the rotors are crossdrilled/slotted/and zinc washer, will they eventually rust and turn all ugly? They look great when first put on, but then will you eventually have these ugly rust rotors behind your rims?

They SEEM a bit pricy, but I think it'd just be easier getting their kit, w/o having to piece together used parts here and there.

Any word on the finishing options? Or, alternate places to order them? ThunderRacing doesn't offer any finishing for the calipers.

Thanks for the info on the 13" rotor. Any big performance gain?

One more thing...does the rear kit come w/ the E-Brake equipment and cable?

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Just sent PM.

You have to click the rotor option menu below the kit description to get the finishing options, they're listed. I'd go with the 13"s if I were you, better braking performance since it's a larger rotor. Or go with the LS1 brakes that have a HUGE pad. We just put a set of LS1s on Mark Lock's car and he loves them.

I "think" their rear kits do come with e-brake cables, but they dont' come with new axle hard lines, which you WILL need if going from drum to disc or '88-earlier discs to the '89-97 PBR style.


Ed

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Eb: Just sent u a PM

KMAN

sweetride45, if you are interested there is a BAER brakes group purchase going on at
http://www.tbyrnemotorsports.com

they areoffering some awesome prices.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Kandied91Z...I know you have Slotted/Drilled rotors...do you notice any cracks in the rotors or performance issues? Where did you get your kits from?

Who has both kits w/ crossdrilled/slotted/zinc washed rotors? How bad are they? Do they wear fast? I really like the look of them, but now I'm not sure b/c of the cracking/etc. issue.

KMAN: Seems as the Group Purchase is for the Alcon Kits, etc...I don't see prices on that site either.

ThunderRacing finally got back to me about the kits. Takes 2-4 weeks to ship, Polishing is $145 per pair, colored for $175 a pair. Also, I have to pay shipping to send them the cores for the refund. Doesn't seem like the best place to get them from, if I decide to go w/ Baer.

What's the advantage of having a 2 piece rotor, rather than 1? 2 piece upgrade is $270 more from Thunder.

paul_huryk

2 piece rotors are a lot more resistant to warping than the 1 piece ones.

No factory spare will clear the 13" rotors. Buy fiz-a-flat and a AAA membership.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Some more people have to have crossdrilled/slotted rotors. Also, I can't see the 1 piece rotor design "warp" under normal conditions. I mean, tons of stock...mostly ALL cars have 1 piece, and I've rarely seen a warped one. I don't think it's worth $270 a pair just to have 2 piece.

I'm still undecided on what to get now.

Please, people w/ Baer, or similar brakes, what is your reaction towards them? How's the pedal feel? Stiff? Spongy? Worth the money?

Eb: I left you a PM

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

I got a set of the 12" on my '91 GTA because when I bought them I still had my stock crosslace rims on it (contrary to rumors, they will fit). I love 'em. Yes, they were a bit pricey. But I was like you, I didn't want to spend a lot of time piecing the kit together. I ordered them from Thunderracing. I'd go with them, the customer service is great. Once I got them it was pretty easy to swap them in. I paid around $1200 for everything. The peddal is nice and firm and when I lay on it I could have you kissing my dash if you're not wearing your seatbelt.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

blacksunshine'91: Sounds like a good plan. Do you have Crossdrilled/Slotted/Zinc Washed Rotors? If so, do they have stress cracks around the holes? Also, you described a "firm" pedal feeling...how firm exactly? Still the stock feel, but it just brakes better? I just don't want it to feel like I have to push the thing very hard to get it to brake. Maybe a LITTLE stiffer than stock would be good, just more braking power.

Kontrax

there was actually a larg post about the slotted/cross drilled rotors. i guess they dont really do much unless your using them in the autocross or where hard braking is common. they actually said the drilling does nothing for the rotors except give them a "trick appearence" i always though that the holes let out excess heat to prevent warpage, but the material they are using in pads now doesnt cause extreme heat like the old school ones. they went on with all this scientific expenations and i lost intrest so i stopped reading i dont know take it for what its worth i guess. im going to stick with the stock rotors anyways because i never had a problem with them and its not worth paying extra money for trick rotors im never going to see

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Kontrax: I read that post your referring to. I know they won't do much for performance, but I really like the appearance, and w/ the new rims I'm getting, they will really show off!

I guess it's personally preference in the long run. I can't see anyone making a product that will warp and crack, as others are saying. The only way I see that is if they drilled into a solid casting. But if the casting was MADE w/ holes, I think it'd be pretty damn good to hold up.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

True about the heat dissapation but they still release a gas when they are loaded and heated up. If you do not have the slots or holes under extreem braking situation with a large rotor the gas builds up, compresses between the pad and rotor and drastically drecreases the clamping force of the brake. The slots and holes allow these gasses to escape and maintain full clamping loads.

Kontrax

i was thinking the same thing man. but i guess with the new pads out they dont give off gas or very little, compared to the older style ones. atleast thats what some1 on the other post was saying. i have a hard time believin people when they get into the science of things. its like suddenly everyone is insanly smart. so why isnt everyone on these boards a scientist?

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

What about pedal feel? Also, w/ zinc coating, do they rust?

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Well I am an engineer and have some materials backround. Stock cars don't need them because the surface area on their pads isn't that big, and gasses and heat are dissapated with ease. When you get into large pad and multi piston set-ups that heat and gas buildup doesn't dissapte so easy and can get trapped and bubble almost.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

I've asked a few other questions that weren't replied to yet...not to sound pushy or anything, I just want to know what direction to go in.

Kontrax

engineers are very smart. i have a friend whos an engineer and made a TV remote out of a nintendo duck hunt pistol. coolest thing i ever saw.....anyways back to the topic at hand

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Exactly what you'll get. You will get a FIRMER pedal, not a HARDER pedal. There's a difference in those two words. It all has to do with the difference in piston diameters and surface ares between the stock single piston calipers and the dual piston calipers, that's all. Firm pedal is a GOOD thing.

If you really want D/S rotors, go for it...it's your car so do what you want to it.



Ed

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

I have the slotted rotors. I didn't want to have any long term issues with cracking because I use it as a street car/daily driver. Didn't know if it would be a problem but didn't want to have to do it again. Not to mention they don't have any more heat dissipitating qualities that slotting doesn't (does that sentence make sense?). All the suspension books I read said that slotting was more effective that cross-drilling. The main benefit that I read from cross-drilling was weight reduction. The pedal is a lot more firm when you push it. There is no variance in the feel each time you brake. It doesn't take any more force to push the pedal. Don't worry about showing them off. If you have rims that are fairly open people will see those calipers with the big "BAER" logo on them from a mile away. After installing them I put some Edelbrock 409's on and you can see them from a good distance.

BretD 88GTA

The zinc washing prevents the rotors from rusting and keeps them looking nice.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Wouldn't the zinc wash burn away after a few stops? Or, is it etched throughout the rotor? I can see that if they put it for shipping purposes so they look good out of the box, but how long does it actually last before they start to rust?

Superman

I have the 13 inch Tracks on my car and they are great. Yes they are pricey, but they are what I wanted and I really don't like peiceing things togther. I'm a little to impatinet for it. I have the slotted/crosdrilled and zinc washed option on mine. Your not gonna have any problems with the rotors cracking or warping driving on the street The freaking rotor is 1.10 inchs thick. The zinc wash will keep the rotors from rusting, but it will rust where the pads rub the zinc off. This is only a problem if your car set long periods of time, it really aint a problem then, after a few stops the rotors are nice and shiny again. The zinc wash really just keeps the rest of the rotor from rusting like the stock ones do. If you have a nice open wheel I would go with the drilled/slot option, a big 13 inch solid rotor just don't look very good to me, but thats just my opion.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Superman: Thanks for the input! I'm still a bit skeptical about the 13" fitting the 17" Cragars. Some people said yes, some people say it depends on the rim. Well, I don't have either to measure off of, or if I print the template, I don't have the rims to see. From what I've read recently, it sounds like they wouldn't have any problem clearing, but who knows. I think the slotted/crossdrilled look will be killer. I didn't THINK they would warp/crack just from street driving/racing now and then.

Thanks for your insight!!

BretD 88GTA

On the braking surface of the rotor, YES the zinc wash will burn off. But that part of the rotor gets cleaned everytime you apply the brakes.

It's the rest of the rotor - hub, cooling vents...etc that the zinc wash keeps looking good and prevents from rusting. It's worth the extra money if you have wheels that really show off the rotors*. (*see Superman's post)

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

i love my 13's.....

track kit with 2 piece rotor and all the goodies. polished caliper too! so pretty...stops good too.

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

baer hands down makes the best looking setup but they are a bit pricey. as far as the gm parts question....they have worked great for me. the reason i used those was price. i upgraded the gm rotors and used earl's lines and the car worked great. when i could finally upgrade to get the better setup on the front i went with the baers but i'm still running the gm's out back seeing as how it's pretty much the same kit baer sells why spend more. however when they release the bracket to run the larger 12" 2 piece rotor in the rear i will get them for the back as well.

i love everything about the brakes, highly recommend them.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the info guys!!

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

When you have a car as clean as Kandied's, then you almost have to go with Baer or another name brand with all the bling for appearance if nothing else. My opinions are directed toward brakes for a daily driver. I have no idea what Kandied's car is mainly used for, but it definitely is a show car. For the street, I wouldn't go that nice...just too hard to keep clean. Plus, those 2 piece rotors will set you back even more but I'll admit they do look nice.

Ed

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah, I was meaning to ask...what's the advantage of the two piece rotors? I mean, w/ one piece, it's good enough that they arn't part of the hub anymore...what's the difference?

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

well the most noticeable difference and main reason for purchasing them is weight. the 2 piece rotor is alot lighter meaning less rotational weight.

i also have to agree with ed on his point in that unless you get a great deal or have a purpose behind the looks there are similar functioning setups that you can save money on. i was fortunate enough to purchase mine at a time they were cheap which is why i went with what i did.

as far as people wondering what i do with my car.......well yes i show it and yes appearance is a huge factor but i drive it roughly 9,000 miles a year and i race it as well so it doesn't just sit. in fact i probably drive it more then most seeing as how it only has insurance on her for 5 months out of the year.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot for explaining the rotors. I do admit, cost is a factor, but where I'm at...there are A LOT of people around that road race and show off there cars at night...I want to show 'em all up w/ my setup. I think I'll go w/ ThunderRacing for the front and backs...crossdrilled/slotted/zinc/polished calipers. That should compliment the rims nicely.

Kandied: I'm going w/ Cragar SS Rims. I'm thinking 17x8 all around. 4.5" backspacing. What size tire do you recommend that will be the fattest, yet, not extend out of the fenderwell? The 17x9's they have only come w/ 6" backspace. Also, I think I'll go w/ the classic steel ones Vs. the Forged Alloy's. There are more options for the Alloys, but they have fatter spokes (I'm guessing b/c Aluminum is weaker) and I don't like the look. I'd be going w/ Firestone Firehawk Z rated tires.

Any info?

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

i think you should go with the proper tire for the wheel which will keep the "stock" dimensions. in that case it's a 245/45/17.

if you want a "fatter" looking tire you could go wider to a 255 and such but then your sidewalls buldge. just get the proper tire for your rim. you'll be happier and it will look 100% better.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

With those dimensions, what size rim would that be? 17x8?

I always get confused w/ those numbers.

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

you asked what would fit a 17x8.

245 is the width....45 is the profile...and obviously the 17 is the rim size.



245 is the right width for an 8" wide wheel. you go up 10 for every .5" wider the rim goes or you go down 10 for every .5" the rim goes so for example a 275 is the right width for a 9.5" rim.

45 being the the right profile in this case because of the 17" rim to keep the stock tire height or as close to it. you can go taller but then your going to throw things off on your car. in this situation you go up or down 5 for every inch you add or take away so if you were running an 18" instead you would want a 40 sereis instead of 45. this area can be slightly grey however depending on how wide the wheel goes and what your proper tire height is. it's always best to use a tire calculator.

here is a very helpful calculator that has worked well for me.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

so if you wanted to run a 17x9" wide rim in the back the proper tire would be what then??

nolanr0413

ebmiller , i would love to buy some brakes, i think i would buy your brake over baer brakes but you dont offer things all together, I think you shoudl make a kit that is all together like the bear kit. THen i would get brakes from you .

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking on that calculator, and it says my speedo will be off 5 mph w/ those tires...does that sound right? It's the same numbers, just on a 17" rim. How would I correct this? New gears for the VSS? Where can I get them? What color would they be?

Or, is there a different method?

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

how would it be off? that is unless your not using the proper tires on the car now which means it's off now. you shouldn't be much more then 1-3 mph off when changing tires. any more then that and your going to the wrong size which means you need to either recalibrate the speedo gear or reprogram your ecm. whichever your car needs.

what are the tires that came stock on your vehicle from the factory. that's what you have to go off of. not what is on your car now. if your wanting to go off of what your car is now assuming its not what was factory then you have to figure out your own calculations to keep that size. that or go to the right size.

Kontrax

EBmiller can get you all the parts you need for the convert. when i get my 9 bolt started, im going right to him for the PBR swap. he seems to know a lot about brakes, so i trust him