The Wilwoods Are Finished
#52
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Originally posted by 18inchboyds
i didnt know you could run that much pressure, can you run that much over 45 on the street ?
i didnt know you could run that much pressure, can you run that much over 45 on the street ?
Here is the only true way to check your own cars tire pressure based on your cars weight and tire choice. It is a way to check proper edge grip, even tread wear, proper alignment, and proper tire pressure. Its called "chaulk" or "white shoe polish"
Get the tires warm first (drive a few blocks) Then, mark the inside and outside treads of every tire and then drive the car mildly like you would on the street. After a few miles, check the scrub on both inside and outside marks to see if they are even over the edge of the tire. If they are even, but rolling over too far- your pressure is too low. VIsa versa. If the scub is uneven inside and out, camber needs to be added or subtracted first, then recheck after camber is corrected and then set the PSI as stated previously.
#53
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Car: Camaro
Engine: 6.2L
Transmission: T56
Some of us were planning to get out this summer to some CASC and SOLO 1 stuff. I'm going out to shake off some rust and get embarrassed Keep an eye out for threads about it this spring to anyone else out this way. It would be cool to get a bunch of third gens out
#54
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Back to the topic of this brake project-
I just pulled the wheels, rechecked that all is tight, did one more bleed on the system and took it for a spin.
Weather here in So.Calif is very wet right now so its the perfect time to test these things out. We've had about 7-8" of rain in the past couple of days.
Anyways, the front is just slightly locking before the rears which is great news- its almost hard to tell sometimes because they both come to lock so closely but I barreled down on them at about 80mph and locked them at about I would guess40-30 as I turned the wheel for feel on the nose and the car still turned as I modulated it.
I then hit a highspeed sweep by me that I can drift safely into a dirt runoff if needed and barreled theough that about 50 pulling about probably .7g's in the wet and I sweetly locked them. both inside tires locked and the car drifted evenly outwward as I released and it continued balanced through the sweeper. I drifted it to the outer lane. Basically I wanted to simulate a panic slowdown while sitting in a lateral load and the car was extremely balanced and stable (if you have ever driven a go-kart and stabbed the brakes to slide into a corner- this is how this car feels. It is so light and easy to handle)
Conclusion- I am not going to even bother with an adjustable prop valve. The 1LE is working fantastic and this is just a 99% daily driver on the street. I am very pleased with the results.
I just pulled the wheels, rechecked that all is tight, did one more bleed on the system and took it for a spin.
Weather here in So.Calif is very wet right now so its the perfect time to test these things out. We've had about 7-8" of rain in the past couple of days.
Anyways, the front is just slightly locking before the rears which is great news- its almost hard to tell sometimes because they both come to lock so closely but I barreled down on them at about 80mph and locked them at about I would guess40-30 as I turned the wheel for feel on the nose and the car still turned as I modulated it.
I then hit a highspeed sweep by me that I can drift safely into a dirt runoff if needed and barreled theough that about 50 pulling about probably .7g's in the wet and I sweetly locked them. both inside tires locked and the car drifted evenly outwward as I released and it continued balanced through the sweeper. I drifted it to the outer lane. Basically I wanted to simulate a panic slowdown while sitting in a lateral load and the car was extremely balanced and stable (if you have ever driven a go-kart and stabbed the brakes to slide into a corner- this is how this car feels. It is so light and easy to handle)
Conclusion- I am not going to even bother with an adjustable prop valve. The 1LE is working fantastic and this is just a 99% daily driver on the street. I am very pleased with the results.
Last edited by RTFC; 01-09-2005 at 03:14 PM.
#55
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Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Originally posted by 87roc_t56
Some of us were planning to get out this summer to some CASC and SOLO 1 stuff. I'm going out to shake off some rust and get embarrassed
Some of us were planning to get out this summer to some CASC and SOLO 1 stuff. I'm going out to shake off some rust and get embarrassed
As a matter of general information there's a 3 day f-body event in Memphis this summer. Last year it was at Indy; road course, drag and autocross. Some people from TFBM here in Toronto go to it every year and looks like a lot of people from frrax are going this year as well.
Edit:
Here's the link,
http://fbody-event.org/forums/
Last edited by George; 01-09-2005 at 06:08 PM.
#57
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Dean, real simple question: what diameter safety wire did you thread for the caliper brackets?
#58
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Originally posted by Stekman
Dean, real simple question: what diameter safety wire did you thread for the caliper brackets?
Dean, real simple question: what diameter safety wire did you thread for the caliper brackets?
21 gauge stainless steel safetywire on the rotor bolts (1/4-20)
I want this rain to stop already- we've had over 20" of rain in a week and a half here in So. Calif. I would like to try out these binders in the dry.
Last edited by RTFC; 01-11-2005 at 01:44 AM.
#59
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Final imput on this thread- 400miles and everything is still very tight and working beautifully without problem. No loose nuts or bolts- everything is staying properly torqued with the aluminum brackets, no expansion at all.
1 more successful car project in the books.
1 more successful car project in the books.
#60
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Originally posted by George
As a matter of general information there's a 3 day f-body event in Memphis this summer.
http://fbody-event.org/forums/
As a matter of general information there's a 3 day f-body event in Memphis this summer.
http://fbody-event.org/forums/
Sorry Dean, back to the great break job
#61
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: ZZ4 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt w/3.73
Neat thread(s) and unique set-up, I like it!!
I have no doubt your V6 car has turn-in like an F-16, a close friend of mine has an '87 Firebird that will give you a nose-bleed when he yanks the wheel, I cannot imagine how hard your car turns!
Cheers!
I have no doubt your V6 car has turn-in like an F-16, a close friend of mine has an '87 Firebird that will give you a nose-bleed when he yanks the wheel, I cannot imagine how hard your car turns!
Cheers!
#63
VSIXTOY wrote
Was this with or without your spacer? I know you need that spacer to fit the same wheel on all four corners, but i dont know if it was needed to clear the generally smaller GTA wheels.
thanks.
BTW, did we ever talk about a 944? msg me if you did.....
I ran down to Dons shop and measured the GTA rims with my setup and they will fit the GW hubs WITHOUT and machine work necessary. The IROC rims need to be machined larger in the center opening. So again the GTA rims will fit this entire setup, even with the aluminum hubs.
Was this with or without your spacer? I know you need that spacer to fit the same wheel on all four corners, but i dont know if it was needed to clear the generally smaller GTA wheels.
thanks.
BTW, did we ever talk about a 944? msg me if you did.....
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