daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

im thinking of doing a manual set-up.
are there swap parts out there that make this a bolt on thing? im not looking to spend a whole lot of money for aftermarket ****. just maybe stuff i can go to the junk yard and use?

nape

iTrader: (1)

You'll have to buy a manual master cylinder bracket from PA Racing and then get a Dodge (minivan?) master cylinder. After that, you'll have to redo the lines and re-drill the brake pedal higher up for a better pivot point so you have more mechanical advantage (leverage).

I looked into it, and couldn't justify the cost just to reduce the weight. The booster looks big, but it's only about 8lbs IIRC. Not positive on that though. About the only time I'd think about it again, is if I was trying to stuff a big block under the hood.

daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

but what about the our stock proportioning valve and calipers, and rear wheel cylinders? can i use all of those still if i convert?

84406

When I switched to manual brakes I first used a S-10 master cylinder and stock disk/drum proportion valve and it all worked ok. I didn't use any kit but just made a plate that bolted to the pedal frame on the engine side of the firewall. I changed the pedal ratio to about 6 to 1. I also used the stock linkage and just turned it to length on my lathe. I now am using stock front brakes with svo explorer disks on my 9". I also updated to a strange master cylinder ( mopar type ) and wilwood proportion valve. I did away with the stock proportion valve. Manual brakes will never feel like power so you do have to push harder. Seems to stop ok.

dual_88s

OHHHHHH now that's encouraging.....wouldn't want to be behind him in a panic stop....