Front pads loose?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
Front pads loose?
I've done a search, but to no avail. I can move the outer pads around on my front brakes. Of course the caliper prevents the pad from going astray, but is this movement normal.
(My first thirdgen, my first US car)
Cheers,
Mark.
(My first thirdgen, my first US car)
Cheers,
Mark.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
There are two tabs on each pad that should be clamped tight. This is done after the pad is put onto the caliper and prevents it from moving around.
The tabs are on the spindle end of the pad (this is where a pic is worth many words. . .) with a tab toward each end. Using a large set of pliers the tabs get squeezed up toward the top or outer edge of the pad. The pliers need to grip the top of the pad while squeezing the tabs.
RBob.
The tabs are on the spindle end of the pad (this is where a pic is worth many words. . .) with a tab toward each end. Using a large set of pliers the tabs get squeezed up toward the top or outer edge of the pad. The pliers need to grip the top of the pad while squeezing the tabs.
RBob.
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Those tabs will unbend under extreme heat when using the 10.5" brakes under harder racing conditions (small heated spurts like AutoX or very mild track use).
The rattle and clicking always comes back from heat, Hence why I ended up building and entirely new brake system just to get rid on the constant always returning rattling noises that happened for years of embarassment. My old brakes worked great, just made noise.
The tabs in questionare circled with yellow. use channellocks like the wrench in the picture and place the jaws of the channel locks where I placed the green slashes. I even tried putting the red goo brake noise suppressant rubbery crap under those tabs and chnched them down- the noise would always return within about a month or two of normal hard street driving(or first track driving.)
The rattle and clicking always comes back from heat, Hence why I ended up building and entirely new brake system just to get rid on the constant always returning rattling noises that happened for years of embarassment. My old brakes worked great, just made noise.
The tabs in questionare circled with yellow. use channellocks like the wrench in the picture and place the jaws of the channel locks where I placed the green slashes. I even tried putting the red goo brake noise suppressant rubbery crap under those tabs and chnched them down- the noise would always return within about a month or two of normal hard street driving(or first track driving.)
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I do somewhat as Dean suggested; except, I bend the tabs in before I put the pads on, in small increments if necessary, to get them to a point where they grip the caliper tightly. I like to get them to where they need a small boost from pliers or something to push them all the way into place.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
A picture is indeed worth a thousand words!
Many thanks for all your help and replies.
Mark.
Many thanks for all your help and replies.
Mark.
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