Okay. My daughter's 1987 Firebird. All $250 of it. It required new brakes all the way around. The fronts are done and I am now working on the back brakes (which are drums, BTW).

How in the world do the wheel cylinders come off? I already have new ones.

I also noticed that there was no rubber plug in the back of the backing plate for loosening or tightening the adjuster wheel. Do you just measure the inside diameter of the drum and expand the brake shoes to just fit?

I remember in the old days, you could back up fast and hit the brakes hard and you could adjust the tension on the adjuster wheel that way. Is that still true?

I know that this is basic stuff, but basically it is still baffling!

Thanks,

Steve

 

I did mine a while back and the wheels cylinders was a PAIN. It was the first time I did them . As far as for adjusting them, just keep turning the adjustor wheel untill the drum gets tight on the shoes. they should have a little drag when they are good.

 

........how did you get the wheel cylinders off?

 

Sorry, really I forgot

 

The cylinders are held on to the backplate by a washer which has sprung loaded tags on it. Incidentally, my new wheel cylinders had the washers included. These tags locate in slots on either side of the brake pipe union and bleed nipple area. My chilton manual says to get the special tool which looks like the business end of a pair of circlip pliers (at work so I haven't got the manual with me), or use a pair of awls. There should be a channel cut into the cylinder casting so that you can stick the awl in it and then lever the tag out of the slot.

I just ended up going neanderthal and wrenching the old cylinders out of the backplate which meant I had to hammer the plate flat again.

Oh, you may want to get hold of some new brake pipes too. Thanks to the age of the pipes on my car, they didn't rotate freely in the unions, so the pipes twisted and broke whilst I was undoing them from the cylinders

You may want to punch the hole out in the backplate to access the adjusters.

Mark.

 

The backing up and pumping the brakes is still good for adjusting them. Needs to be done with cold brakes, not warm or hot. Doing it with hot brakes will over adjust them as the drums expand when heated.

To remove the wheel cylinders I use a large nail. Drive it in between the tang and the wheel cylinder. Then push the head of the nail outward bending the tang out a little. Once the tangs have been released the wheel cylinder can be wiggled out.

The adjuster slots can be knocked out and rubber plugs can be found on the Help! rack.

Al.

 

Thank you everybody. That was great advice and I see what you are talking about now that I have taken my new wheel cylinders out of their packaging.

I am going to go out in just a few minutes and give it a shot!

Thanks again!!!

~Steve

 

Your welcome (from everyone that posted, if I may speak for them).

Now, you are thinking, 'why is that ZED guy posting again?'

Well, because after you get those boogers off, you need to get the new ones on. I usually use a tire iron between the axle flange and the wheel cylinder to hold it in place. This is someone else's job (i've found that the cars owner is usually more than willing to help ).

As they hold the wheel cylinder up against the backing plate I use a 1/8" punch (or so) on the retaining ring next to the tang. And hammer the ring until the tang catches in place. Then move to the other tang and do the same.

A nice wedge from a chunk of wood can subsitute for the tire iron. The wheel cylinder just needs to be held firmly in place in order to drive the retaining ring in.

Al.

 

What I am thinking is that ZED guy was really helpful and I appreciate that. As well as Difflock, even though he jinxed me. One of the "brake pipes", we call them brake lines here in the states, did twist right off.

Guess I will have to get a tubing cutter and a flaring tool to make it right. Always something!

The wheel cylinder came off like you said. I haven't tried to install the new one. This weekend probably. I will let you know how it all plays out.

Thanks again,

Steve

 

Even tubing wrenches will round off the brake line nuts on our almost 20 year old cars. Even days of liquid wrench and the correct tube wrench they will round off.

Break out the low tech vice grips and that will loosen the tube nuts, have saved many a brake line that way. I hate cutting and bending and especially flaring the new tubing. Good luck.

Bill E.

 

Yep...that's what I did too.

 

I didn't have access to a flaring tool, but a local garage sorted the lines for me there and then A quick phone call, jump in the (other!) car, 10 minutes later and £10 lighter in pocket, new brake line.

Mark.

 

Well, the wheel cylinders came off and the new ones are on. I twisted the one brake line and had to replace it. At that point I found out that the flares for the new wheel cylinder were different than what was being used on the car.

So, I had to replace both back brake lines, which was pretty cheap, bend them and route them through the stock mounting points.

One wheel is all done and the other is almost done. I lost a piece and will have to replace it. The tab that goes on the stud over the wheel cylinder and has the ears that extends over the ends of the shoes......that is what I lost. Damn dirt driveway!

I raked and raked and never found it........

 

Is it magnetic? May be worth a try.

 

for adjusting the rear adjusters like stated above just make it so there is a slight drag on the drum and then go out and do about 10 reverse stops from about 10-15mph and they should be good.

 

......was called "drum brake shoe guide". I couldn't find it, the auto parts stores do not stock it..... of course. I found a substitute at the hardware store. Some sort of cabinet hardware!

The brakes are altogether. Test drove the car and am still not happy with it. Will have to have it looked at professionally ..... probably needs a little more adjustment. The brake idiot light stayed on as well.

At least it is not leaking fluid anymore!