My car had been sitting for 7 years before I got the time/$$$ to fixer up. Well after installing a new crate motor and exhaust my next project was to redo the rear brakes. I installed new calipers and pads, cut the rotors and bled the lines. I test drove it up and down my driveway where I got almost NO brakes. Look under the car, the rusted brake lines gave. DAMN! So anyway I have new stainless steel lines coming, but I have some questions while I'm waiting.

1) My local auto parts store doesn't have the Raybestos p/n for the hose that connects the rear axle lines to the line running to the front. Their website doesn't mention it either, so any idea what it is?

2) I know these rear brakes have a GM recall to fix the parking brake adjustment. How do I know if the reman calipers have the fix? If not whats involved and where do I get the parts?

3) I saw in the forums there is a mod to give the rear brakes more stopping power, but the links and pics are broken. From what I get its a prop valve mod. What specificaly do I have to do? Am I better off installing an adjustable prop valve?

4) The parking cable replacement looks like a PITA. Any advice?

Thanks for the help

 

No ideas?

 

I just went through this myself-
1. bendix # 77397
2. trying to figure that one out also
3. I have an adjustable but I dont think it is necessary unless you have change the weight of the car
4.not at all I slid a socket or box end wrench over the retainer and slid it out
hope this helps

 

Raysbestos # should be BH38180

 

Thanks for the info TA.

I don't know why but my local auto parts guy can't seem to find the parts numbers for the hose, but I'll see if he can get these p/ns.

2) From what I've dug up, people are saying the recall didn't really fix the problem. I also heard from a mechanic that I should use the E-brake A LOT.

3) I was able to find out more about the mod. I have to remove the front bolt of the prop valve and remove the spring and valve. Just don't want the rears locking before the fronts, but I'll test it afterwards.

4) Did you adjust the parking brake settings? I read the Chilton manual and it looks like a hassle, but very doable.

 

From what I can tell the hose is the same for discs as drums. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable about 3rd gens will correct me if I am wrong. As far as the e brake adjustment goes,if the system is all together in the car you should be able to just go under the car and behind where the handle goes there is an adjuster you can tension the cable w/ a 1/2 " wrench. If you have to change the setting on the actuator arms on the back of the calipers, it can be a pain. I did a search here when I dealt with this on mine and got all kinds of info.

 

I found a really good tech article here somewhere and it was gold, really saved my a** . I cant remember where I found it but I saved it so I'll paste it :
: A technical service bulletin described this for early-mid '80s rear disk brakes. It seems that the rear disks in these cars would be adjusted by applying the emergency brake. When you pull the emergency brake lever up, the lever turns this little device called an actuator screw. This little screw type device is also on a ratchet, so that pulling the e-brake up, turns the screw. But letting go allows the ratchet part to function and set the pads at that time. So, using the emergency brake is mandatory for maintaining the rear disk setting on early model rear disk units.
But, here's the problem with them. There's a little spring on the actuator screw assembly that allows the pads to back-off from the disk a little bit before the ratchet mechanism is engaged. This must be done, otherwise full brake pressure would be left on the pads when the e-brake is released. Well, that little return spring K-factor was not correctly chosen from the factory, and the result is that the ratchet NEVER functions after the actuator screw gets a little dirty. Hence, the pads simply work their way out all the way when the e-brake is used. Using the e-brake all the time seems to keep the actuator free for a longer period of time, but even with the correct spring weight and screw, the e-brake is required to adjust the parking brake actuator.
The TSB states that cars with a manual tranny are eligible for a free fix as the e-brake is required to park the car, but the auto is not eligible. Why? Only GM knows. However, fixing it yourself should be relatively easy. The rear wheels are removed, and there is a nut on the back side of the brake caliper that holds the parking brake lever. Remove the nut, lever, and soft grommets. Put a large washer over the shaft to act as a spacer, and then put a wrench on the hex of the shaft, and tie it down with the nut. Turn the wrench to back the brakes off. After a while, this will over travel, as if there was a one way clutch. Tighten the shaft to see where the hex is when the pads are tight agains the rotor. If it is in a spot that the parking brake lever will fit, and turn about 1/3 of its travel to tighten apply the brake, then it is good. If not, try again.
This will remove some of the brake pedal slop also. It's supposed to be self-adjusting (apply parking brake thirty times), but it is common for it not to work.