So, after placing the order in April with my local performance parts store I finally got my CPP master cylinder CP31500-P (MCPV-1 Master w/ Built in 1" Bore Polished Finish).
The instructions say:
"Note: This master cylinder has two front ports and two rear ports (3/16 inverted flare), and one stop light switch port (1/8 NPT) Do not connect the rear brakes to the top light switch port!"

Attached are some pictures of the MCPV1 master and a shot of the stock setup (RS '91, 305 TBI).

The instructions fail to indicate how to install the MC in the car, what goes, what stays, and just to add to the confusion the plastic caps show 3/8" the instructions sheet says 3/16".

My question are:
1. Does the stock distribution block stay or do I get rid of it?
2. It sure looks like I'll need some lines, how do I go about it, can I order them or do I just go to NAPA and have them make them, am I better off just making them myself, if so what should I buy?
3. What kind of flaring tool do I need, are they universal or should I be looking for something in particular?


There is also an Adjustment Procedure which is very confusing, I'll scan the sheet later and post it, maybe somebody can help me out.

Thanks in advance.

D.

 

Attached are the scanned instructions.

 

I've read about that valve and am considering it for my '70 RS project. From what I understand, you don't need your stock prop valve since this one has internal adjustable valving that will take the place of it. You'll have to make your own lines and figure out how to match them up to your stock lines, and I have no idea on the flaring stuff, I don't have one on hand and up close to look at. It's a great piece though.

Ed

 

Ed, thanks for your reply.
I wasn't sure if the "distribution block" (as I called it) was a prop valve.
Does that mean the switch currently plugged into the prop valve plugs into the new MC? Is that a brake switch or a warning switch for low fluid level?

Does anyone know where to get the lines from and what thread size the stock lines are?
What is recommended for line material (soft steel vs. stainless steal) and line diameter?

Thanks

 

I'll have to check. My car has been on jackstands since last year ( suspension work that never got finsished).

I might replace the stupid MC this summer when I start working on it again or I might just sell it (it's still in the original box).