Flushing brake system??
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,873
Likes: 5
From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Flushing brake system??
I just did a complete rebuild on my front end brakes. New rotors, pads, calipers, caliper pins, inner and outer wheel bearings. I'll hopefully be doing the lines soon too.
My big question is, after spending the time to install new parts, its now time to bleed the brakes. I have a feeling that the fluid is VERY old and I'd like to flush as much out as I can.
What is the most effective way to do this? Open the valves and push the pedal? I am a lone guy in my apartment parking lot so its gotta be reasonably simple.
My big question is, after spending the time to install new parts, its now time to bleed the brakes. I have a feeling that the fluid is VERY old and I'd like to flush as much out as I can.
What is the most effective way to do this? Open the valves and push the pedal? I am a lone guy in my apartment parking lot so its gotta be reasonably simple.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 4
From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
Re: Flushing brake system??
Brake fluid is very prone to moisture contamination as it ages.Flushing/changing the brake fluid is a very good idea.There are tools that you can use to do the job by yourself.Here's a couple examples to give you an idea.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Car: 91 z28 convertible
Engine: 305
Transmission: 5 speed
Re: Flushing brake system??
I just upgraded my brakes to C5 and LS1 for the rear. My fluid was black, so when I changed the calipers I let all the fluid drain, and started from scratch. I also dont have any body to help me out. So I used a peanut butter glass container and a clear plastic hose that fits the bleeder. Then I filled the container half way and installed the hose to the bleeder and the other end goes inside the container. You have to make sure that the end inside the container always stays under fluid. Then just fill the reservoir with new fluid and start pumping the pedals. Also you want to start on the rear right then rear left, then front right, then last front left.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Re: Flushing brake system??
I would recommend the following method.
Open up all the bleeders and let them drip. When the master cylinder gets low add more fluid. Do this until you have filled the master cylinder up twice and tighten the bleeders. I doubt that you will have any air in the system and will have all new fluid.
Open up all the bleeders and let them drip. When the master cylinder gets low add more fluid. Do this until you have filled the master cylinder up twice and tighten the bleeders. I doubt that you will have any air in the system and will have all new fluid.
Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5 manual
Re: Flushing brake system??
I like using a vacuum pump to completely drain the system and then using it again to draw the new fluid through the system. For overkill, I also have speed bleeders on each of the calipers.
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: Mantua, Ohio
Car: 86 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 305ci TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Flushing brake system??
A guy at a parts store told me to do the gravity draining thing, just by opening the bleeders and wait. I have not tried it yet so I'm not sure.
Related question, hope I explain this well,
Should you ever bleed from the block directly under the master cylinder? It has 2 lines going into it from master cylinder, then the front part has 1 out and the rear part has 2 out. I think they are separate. both front side and backside have a large but thin hex nut with a nipple thing. Should bleeding be done from here followed by bleeding each line at the calipers?
Also, anyone know where I can find a diagram or something of how the parts inside this aluminum block work, just out of curiosity.
Related question, hope I explain this well,
Should you ever bleed from the block directly under the master cylinder? It has 2 lines going into it from master cylinder, then the front part has 1 out and the rear part has 2 out. I think they are separate. both front side and backside have a large but thin hex nut with a nipple thing. Should bleeding be done from here followed by bleeding each line at the calipers?
Also, anyone know where I can find a diagram or something of how the parts inside this aluminum block work, just out of curiosity.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Re: Flushing brake system??
Leave the block thing alone.
Just bleed the calibers.
You may be asking for trouble by playing with the distribution block.
Do the gravity bleed.
Just bleed the calibers.
You may be asking for trouble by playing with the distribution block.
Do the gravity bleed.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Flushing brake system??
So with the gravity bleed, you dont have to do the old "pump and hold" method at each corner right.
What about if you replace the rubber lines. Can you still gravity bleed them?
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 900
Likes: 1
From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
Re: Flushing brake system??
If you have black fluid and your rubber lines are more than seven years old, you OUGHT to replace them!
...and yes, you can gravity bleed through new lines. However you might have better luck by using a mitey-vac, which is a little hand pump that you hook up to the brake bleeder screw. It pulls a vacuum which sucks air out of the caliper and lines. You dab some silicone grease around the bleeder screw to seal it, then start pulling a vacuum on the caliper. Keep pumping until no more bubbles appear. It's truly a one-person job and a worthwhile tool for your box.
...and yes, you can gravity bleed through new lines. However you might have better luck by using a mitey-vac, which is a little hand pump that you hook up to the brake bleeder screw. It pulls a vacuum which sucks air out of the caliper and lines. You dab some silicone grease around the bleeder screw to seal it, then start pulling a vacuum on the caliper. Keep pumping until no more bubbles appear. It's truly a one-person job and a worthwhile tool for your box.
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: Mantua, Ohio
Car: 86 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 305ci TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Flushing brake system??
Well, I was thinking the "gravity" bleed is if you were to open up the bleeder valves and then... just wait. no pumping the pedal, just wait until the fluid trickles down but make sure the master cylinder keeps fluid in it. im not even sure how well the fluid will flow like this.
I'm probably going to buy the vacuum pump at advance auto for $50 so I can stop relying on people to help me bleed. Plus you can play with other vacuum operated stuff.
I'm probably going to buy the vacuum pump at advance auto for $50 so I can stop relying on people to help me bleed. Plus you can play with other vacuum operated stuff.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








