Some tweeks, Didn't like how much of the incoming air would hit the inboard rotor face, can/could cause uneven rotor cooling which can lead to rotor cracking, ideally you want the incoming air to be directed at the rotor center so the rotor fins can direct air evenly across the entire rotor

A little cutting and welding and it's more better.

I may try and adapt some ZO6 front brake ducts

 

Also powder coated them for better protection from the elements and they look good in a textured black powered coat.

 

Yeah it’s looking like it will work like a real race cars braking system. Those ZO6 ducts are nice, maybe they will be long enough and a nice contour. Keep us updated.

 

Just remembered that a friend of mine bought a 08 ZO6 that had some fender damage and he ended up replacing the front brake ducts so I may be able to get them for super cheap or free if he still has them, stay tuned…….

 

I ended up buying a set of brand new ZO6 brake ducts off of eBay for $80.Initial mock-up looks promising, I think these might work. Pictures are of front lock to lock with the front suspension at full droop.

 

Looks just about perfect!

 

I like that bro, I know pictures can be deceiving but it looks like that duct is rubbing the tire. What kind of duct is that?

 

The contours are surprisingly similar

 

A couple of pictures are a little deceiving, there is clearance all the way around, one side is kinda close but it’s going to be almost impossible to keep the 3” hose away 100% away from the tire. Brake cooling hose is a wear item, literally, look online for brake cooling ducts and quite a few pictures show hoses patched up with duck tape




Looking down from top of the tire

 

Modifications


The outlet is under sized for a 3” hose and it’s an odd shape and I expect it being problematic trying hose clamp the 3” hose. I’m going to rivet a 3” OD X 1-1 1/2” long aluminum tube to this side so the hose clamp has something more to grab onto, similar to the picture below.

Probably gonna cut these about where I’m showing in the pic above. Gonna need a 4”-3” reducer, I’ll see what our local hardware stores have this weekend

 

You da man, that’s a really nice package, you’ve cracked the code bro. That’s a super nice solution “ you all should take notes from that man right there”

 

Now we just need you to offer those custom backing plates!

 

An update:

3” OD aluminum tube cut to 1” long, 4 holes drilled to 9/64” for 6-32 stainless steel screws.

In the picture above you can see the aluminum tubing is somewhat square, and in this picture you can see difference in the shape. I’m using 6-32 nylock nuts

Aluminum extension installed, due to the difference in shapes of the ZO6 brake duct and the aluminum ring I squeezed some expanding foam to help as much air to the calipers.


Felt a second mounting point was necessary

Checking both sides this spot on the brake ducts and the body where both similar in flat spots for the brake duct to sit flat against the body.

Two stainless steel #14 x 3/4” sheet metals

And to cover the hole a 7/8” plug, found these at Lowes in the hardware aisle.

Picture is of the driver side wheel with the coil spring compressed using a floor jack, wheel was raised until the frame started to lift off of the jack stand. I’m running 1000lb front coil springs on weight jacks with a 36mm sway bar so I’m going for a flat turning car with very little body roll, I won’t really know if this enough clearance until I get this car on the road again.
At full droop and full lock and with aluminum extension and the 3” hose installed the hose comes into with the 17x9.5 ZO6 wheels with LS1 brakes which pushes the wheels out a little less than 1/4”, I’m using 2” wheel spacers. I add this for future searchers, this brake duct set will not work for factory wheels and brakes.

For the inlet to the ZO6 brake ducts im waiting on these to come in, the measurements list in the Amazon add seem to be the right size for what is needed, their supposed to be here on Monday

 

Well that just broke my heart!

Actually making the jump to LS brakes all around, but plan to keep my factory 16" wheels.

 

Unless you have adjustable steering stops and you plan to use the car only for the track “ Totally justified” at least that’s what I would tell myself.

 

The size difference is real close

Using a heat gun to make the brake duct plastic a little more pliable it fits pretty snug

And some rivets to make sure the reducer doesn’t move

 

DynoDave43 There’s still hope, I assumed and I should know better since I work in R&D. I assumed because of the smaller diameter of a 16 x 8 that the ZO6 brake duct would come into contact with a factory wheel, it appears that I assumed incorrectly.

Factory front GTA wheel with no spacer, full lock and full droop, with the weight of the car on the front suspension there maybe plenty of clearance

Factory front GTA wheel with a .1776 wheel spacer at full lock and full droop

 

Shorten one of the plastic tubes or maybe heat gun that corvette duct to the angle that offers the best clearance or maybe even shorten the aluminum tube a little.

 

 

 

Your going to reduce brake fade a lot by keeping them cooler.I’ll be installing a hydratech brake system on my car as soon as it arrives. Look them up when you get a chance. It’s about a grand and 8 month wait, but if you have a rad cam and don’t have alot of vacuum this unit will boost you brake pressure from the power steering big time.

 

This is a great thread and I'm glad some of you are already trying some stuff out for brake cooling. I'm trying to decide how to do this with my 1991 Formula with Wilwood 14" 6 piston brakes. They don't have a backing plate and the Starbuck system looks like something better than nothing but I kind of wanted the ducts to go all the way up to a backing plate. Once I finish my LS3 build for this car I'll get to work in this