Hey everyone, Ive looked for a while in previous posts but couldnt find out any info about what you have to do to modify the spindle in order to get the ls1 front's in.

Org a v6 camaro, any diff then the v8 camaro front spindles?
How do i mount the caliper on there, i have the mounting bracket and hub that i got from ed, and the ls1 calipers. and rotors. I have the hub on there, its just getting the caliper mounted . Please help me out here.

Also what do i do about lines? Ive called ed but i havnt got responses back yet. I really need this done asap, i have this car show i would really like to enter, and its in a week. Can i pick them up somewhere else? And are they custom? Im talking the rubber ones the first set that goes to the caliper.. or do i get the ones for the actual 98-02 camaro?, but for the rest of lines cant i get stright brake line and bend it up myself? I really need to get these lines soon. NAPA or AUto zone have them ? what do i get?

The rear end seems pretty easy ill finish that up tomm, can i use the stock lines on that axle? (org drums) Also i have LT1's disc in the rear not ls1 rears, only ls1 fronts.

Thanks
-Dan

 

Spindles:
you have to cut the **** out of the spindles, drill holes, and tap holes. you can find the details in the "98+ Camaro brakes, bigger better period" thread in the FAQ board.

Hubs:
the v6 car hubs are the same as the v8 hubs. zero difference.

Front lines:
you can use your stock lines, or you can use the LS1 lines. but the best thing to do would be to get new set of braided steel lines from earl's. you will need banjo bolts as well. the GM part number for the banjo bolt is 10286122. you will need two.

Rear brakes:
as far as the LT1/1LE rears.. you may need new hardlines, i bought pre-bent kit from ed when i did the 1LE/LT1 PBR swap on my 9bolt. you should be able to mangle you current hardlines and get them to work. the only reason i bought new lines was that my ninebolt was brake less when i bought it.

good luck with your swap, i am about to tackle this one myself.

here are some images from the FAQ page. these are NOT my spindles. i have yet to modify spindles.



i would realy recomend reading the entire FAQ before doing anything. i have read through it twice now (the whole thing) and gone back a few times skimming for info.
FAQ LS! brakes

 

Dude thanks a lot man i really appreciate the help, now i can get going on the brakes today. Awsome dude

Ive looked through like 20 pages of the brakes and when i got to 98camaro page, i was done , my eyes were shot looking at the comp, ill take a look today.
Thanks again
-Dan

 

Wait 1 more question, i got a proportioning valve from summit. Where does that hook up to before and after what? inside engine comp? and how do i adjust it?
Does everything still hook up to my stock proportioning valve and also to my aftermarket one, or just the aftermarket? aftermarket i thought opnly has an inlet and outlet where the stock prop has multiple holes. What do i do?

 

did you get the willwood one? if so it breaks down like this. you need to remove or gut your stock proportioning valve. i removed mine and replaced it with a "T" fitting for the front. i then ran the rears directly, with the prop valve in the middle.

like dis:


i know this is the ugliest install in history, but what can i do.
it breaks down like this.
STOCK:
your front breaks get 100% pressure. the rears get reduced to a lower percentage, this is to compensate fro different brake setups as well as the different braking needs of the rear vs. front setups.
the rear part of the Master cylinder feeds the front brakes and the front cylinder feeds the rear breaks. in addition to being a proportioning valve, the stock unit acts as a brake distribution block. splitting the front brakes into two hoses. the rear is not split until the rear axle.

WITH PROP VALVE:
if you remove the stocker as i did you will need a way to split the brake pressure from the one hose to two. t-fittings are available from your local parts house. now here is the worst part. you are probably going to have to go get a flair tool and reflair your line ends. this is a huge PITA. you see some threads and people are "flairs are easy LOL.. u guyz just suckzors". i say F-that. flairs suck. i removed the freaking line from the car and was still unable to flair them. you can get adapters if you can find a fittings shop. do that. or return the willwood and get the Jegs one that is also a distribution block (i will probably be re-doing mine this way).

once you have hooked up the prop valve in your rear line you will be able to manually adjust your rear brake bias with a dial. go out on a flat road with no traffic, hit 45 and STOP. increase brake pedal pressure until one set of wheels locks. if the rears lock first dial back the bias. repeat until the fronts lock first. if you live in an area where it rains you may want to do this on a wet road. my car is set up for wet stopping, as i drive in the rain more then i drive in the dry (i live in Oregon)

here is the Jegs one. imagine how much better my setup would look with one of these? it even has a connection for the "brake" warning light on the dash. how freakin' sweet is that.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_536521_-1


EDIT*
looks like summit has one too:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Awsome, thanks for all your help man, Ive read 12 pages of bs in that ls1 98-02 camaro brake thread, but you basically covered almost everything thats in that in 2 posts. And made it a whole lot simplier.

I have the a summit brand prop valve that looks just like that willwood u have, ill probably do what you did with the t fitting for the rear.

 

I used the factory prop valve bracket on mine to keep it clean as possible, still a work in progress though, currently converting to a strange manual master

summit valve is a wilwood with a sticker over the name!