I've done a few searches for free travel, etc....but haven't found what I need. I just installed a new pbr setup and I need to adjust the ebrake cause its not grabbing. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

Is your car equipped with a tunnel mounted adjustment piece? Did you use a first or second design cable?

JamesC

 

if you're talking about the bracket the cables hook to in the tunnel...I don't think its adjustable (91RS). As far as the 1st or 2nd design I'm not sure. I purchased Ed Millers pbr upgrade kit and he supplied the cables (I've PM'd you about the shims BTW). I'm also waiting for a response from Ed on this problem

 

You'd be well advised to check the tunnel. IIRC, some of these cars had the adjustment (first design cable); some didn't (second design).

JamesC

 

my car has the second design, I had heard that the ajustment was at the e-brake handle itself, but i cant figure out how to ajust it.

 

yeah mine must be the second design with the adjustment at the handle....Theres no way to adjust it in the tunnel

 

According to Chilton's, the parking brake cable is adjustable only on 82-89 vehicles (though I think some 90-92 cars were equipped with adjustment in the tunnel). 90-92 vehicles feature a self-adjusting parking brake.

JamesC

 

Thanks james.....appears I need to shorten the cables somehow. I'm thinking about cutting the ends in the tunnel and crimping on new ones.

 

I took my console apart and could not figure out how to ajust at the e-brake at the handle. I have about 170,000 miles on the rear brakes so I ordered new rear calipers. I will let you know if new calipers work to ajust the e-brake. I dont mean to steal your post I happen to have the same problem. I think there are more than just us out there with this problem. I am U.S. Army stationed in Germany and to pass there inspection they put the car on a brake tester and it failed. Until the brake test I wasnt even aware that the rears didnt work or the e-brake as I have an automatic trans. These cars leave a lot to be desired in braking ability and hopefully my rears working will make the car more desirable to stop after the no speed limit autobahn runs. Sorry for the essay.

 

Having been through this and dealing with the mis-information out there, I hope this helps.

The 2nd design uses a self adjusting lever. As the brakes wear, it adjusts automatically so that the single cable gets shorter. You can force it to go to it's shortest point, but just about any pulling on the cable will adjust it back out.

If you're cables are as long as I think they are (about 1-2 inches), you will not be able to shorten the center cable enough to work and even if you did it would quit working as your brakes wear.

The problem with going from drum to disc is where the body side retainers are mounted. With drums retainers, they are too close to the center mount. It doesn't matter how long or short the cable is, if the cable is too long move the retainer back. IE, the cable could be 200" as long as the exposed cable length (non-sheath length) is correct.

In my case, 1st design and 2nd design both were too long to use the drum retainers. The shorter cable had to route below the axle, the longer cable had to route above the axle. In both cases the exposed cable length (total length of cable minus total length of sheath) was too long.

If you want to shorten the cables (center or axle) use added bolt-on or crimp on connectors in addition to the factory welded end. I tried this way at first by cutting the cable and crimping my own end. Every type of crimp I tried would easily pull off after about 3 uses. If you keep the factory crimp and add ones too it, it should work.

Your best bet is to get another set of body retainers and weld them where they need to go (up higher and further back then the drum mounts). I wound up moving to a complete 4th gen system (mainly because I had a parts car here). The nice thing about the 4th gen system is the single cable retainer and the axle cable retainers are all one piece. The 4th gens use the same self-adjusting lever, but different cables and triangle joint. I swapped the single cable, snapped it into the 4th gen tunnel plate, welded it up where it wound up with the single cable sheath pulled tight, then attached the 4th gen axle cables and I was done.

I know it doesn't seem to make sense when I say the cable length doesn't matter only the sheath length, but trust me. I can't be sure on all years, but I know if you have a self-adjusting lever and body retainers integrated into the rear seatbelt bolts, neither cable design will work. You have to move the retainers.

Kevin D.

 

My update. I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, through a repair shop. They say now say that I need all new cables and a new lever before my ebrake works again. Does anyone know where to find new cables and a lever? Autozone just has the two rear cables in stock ( I use them becase they ship to military address for free).

 

Just get an e-brake handle from a 82-89 car. They're adjustable.

This is the 82-89 version:



That hex nut there will allow you to adjust the slack out.

This is the 90-92 self-adjusting version:



Just get which ever setup matches the year your brakes are for.

My car is a 92 drum rear car. I put an 89 rear disc axle in it and swapped over to the other style of e-brake handle. No problems here. E-brake works perfectly.

And for the sake clarity, when I say grab the handle, you need the bracket/cable that's connected to it also. It's not welded to the car or anything. It's all attached to the handle. Just go find an older car in the junkyard and disconnect the e-brake cables from teh bracket and pull teh whole thing out. Nothing to it.

 

I almost went that route, but you will be stuck with the older stlye handle/button. Would have looked out of place with the 4th gen console.

Kevin D.

 

has anyone found out where to get a new foward cable and handle? (for 2nd design)