Ok so I'm trying to replace all of my brakes the fronts are obviously easy to do. Put the dust cap, cotter pin then bolt. But my rears do not have a dust cap, it.just goes in. I've removed the calipers, with ebrake attached and can not get the rotors to budge. I've scraped around the lugnut bolts, sprayed with pb blaster 4 times. Beaten with a hammer around lugnuts and the back. Tried prying them.off.with a crow bar and.still nothing. And I missing a bolt? They're disk brakes BTW. The car sat so long that the brake pad crumbled when removed. So am I missing something?

 

Put the tires/wheels back on and leave the lug nuts loose. Drive the car slowly up & down the driveway or slowly around the block.

Should now be able to remove them.

RBob.

 

That does usually work but I have never had the guts.

 

Well I don't have my tranny in, any other ideas?

 

get a bigger hammer, and swing it like a man.

 

I suggest a BMFH... Such as a 5lb sledge

 

Blowtorch + BFH

 

Also, get some PB Blaster and soak around all of the contact points... Let it sit for about 15 min and come back and spray it again... Wait another 30 min and then beat the crap out of it

 

NOT a hammer. Unless of course, you're replacing em anyway; cause if you weren't already, you WILL be.

Use a 3-jaw puller. Pops em right off. UNDAMAGED.

 

Yeah I'm replacing them all, complete brake job. Took a sledge hammer to them and nothing.

 

grab a torch- a propane torch will do, but an oxy/scetelyne torch will work better.

heat up the rotor on the flange, concentrating on the area between the centering hub and the wheel studs.. get it nice and hot- the hotter the better, short of actually melting the metal.. after you get it nice and hot, spray a good penetrating oil on it- i like PB Blaster products or the GM heat valve pentrant- focusing on the area around the center hub and the wheel studs.. once you get it soaked down and while it's still too hot to touch, grab your hammer and pound the wheel mounting flange nice and hard between each stud a few times to jarr it loose and get the penetrating oil in there, then start hitting the back of the friction surface of the rotor (where the inner pad rides) to try to get it to push away from the flange. you can aldo use 2 big screwdrivers or pry bars on opposite sides of the rotor to put pressure on it as you pound on it with the hammer.. it should come off after this- but remember that the rotor will be HOT for a good half hour so don't try to be a hero and catch it when it falls off and make sure that it won't fall into your lap when it does..

 

I usually spray it real good with PB Blaster and let it sit for a day, try it again and repeat. Last time it took 3 days and I finally said enough of this crap and pulled the entire axle out. It was easy since the car had a 9 bolt at the time. 4 retaining bolts and nuts and the axle slid right out. I then put the axle on end with the studs down on a rubber mat sprayed it some more with PB Blaster then stepped on the rotor. It popped right off. I've done the hammer method before with a ballpeen tapping around the back edge.

Don't hit it too hard with a hammer else you could risk bending an axle flange.

I also use anti-seize when doing wheels or brakes. If you coat the flange area with it before putting on the rotor and the wheel hub mounting area before putting on the tire you have very little chance of having a big problem later. I've yet to see a shop actually care enough to do it.

 

All that banging and heating and whatnot seems like an awful lot of w .... w ..... wo ...... work **baaaarrrrrrfffffff** (sorry, it's really hard for me to bring myself to use language like that in public) when all you need is a 3-jaw puller.

Anti-sieze during re-assembly is a good idea... jus don't forget, all that stuff is spinning pretty fast when in operation, and if you use too much, it will merely get slung out and end up in helpful places like... the inside of your wheels, and your pads.