Line Lock Install Question
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
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From: Maine
Car: 1985 Camaro, 1998 K1500 Z71
Engine: Carbed 350 Vortec, 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt/3.42, 10 Bolt/3.73
Line Lock Install Question
Alright so I'm in the process of building my car (85 Sport Coupe) and am about to do the brakes. I'm replacing just about everything on the car, brakes and lines included. I have a stock disc/drum master cylinder with new stock pads/rotors/calipers and a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. My question is since the proportioning valve has 2 front outlets, how do I plumb the line lock solenoid? My plan was to block one off, run one to the solenoid, then to a t-fitting, then to each respective wheel. Does that seem right or am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated; I'm a professional mechanic with a few years of experience so I'm plenty inclined I've just never set up a line lock before and the instructions from Summit show a proportioning valve with only one front outlet. Thanks again.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,803
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Line Lock Install Question
I see no reason you couldn't block one front port
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 1985 Camaro, 1998 K1500 Z71
Engine: Carbed 350 Vortec, 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt/3.42, 10 Bolt/3.73
Re: Line Lock Install Question
86TA thanks for the quick response! I kinda figured so but I couldn't find anything definitive online and anyone I asked pretty much said they weren't sure so yeah... My concern was if it would properly distribute the fluid. I get lucky and am doing all the lines from scratch so I figure do it right the first time.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Nebraska
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: Manual
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 10,405
Likes: 2,081
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Line Lock Install Question
He used the wrong fitting for rear brake line at master cylinder. He matched up the thread type but his flare is too small. The master cylinder rear brake port was designed to seal against a metric bubble flare made from a larger 6 mm line. You can get away with flaring a 1/4" line, but the 3/16" flare is just too small in diameter. What he needs to do is get a proper metric bubble adapter between the master cylinder and the tube nut.
Apparently the Wilwood brake light switch is meant to compliment a roll stop by wiring the brake switch into the rear brake lights. Appears to be just a pressure switch on the front brake line, and not a safety related pressure balance switch. That means a roll stop can be plumbed ahead of the Wilwood combination valve (unlike the stock combination valve).
Instructions --> http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds715.pdf
Glad I never got around to wiring mine up to the dash warning light.... it would have been flashing every time I touched the brakes!
Apparently the Wilwood brake light switch is meant to compliment a roll stop by wiring the brake switch into the rear brake lights. Appears to be just a pressure switch on the front brake line, and not a safety related pressure balance switch. That means a roll stop can be plumbed ahead of the Wilwood combination valve (unlike the stock combination valve).
Instructions --> http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds715.pdf
Glad I never got around to wiring mine up to the dash warning light.... it would have been flashing every time I touched the brakes!
Last edited by QwkTrip; Dec 18, 2016 at 12:43 PM.





