Here is a write up on my Wilwood 260-11179 Adjustable Proportioning Valve and Hurst Roll Control/Line Lock install/swap on my 85 Camaro Sport Coupe.






I had the luxury of doing this swap with a new and dry Master Cylinder, (mine needed to be replaced since the OE was feeling spongy). I also went to a local wrecking yard an found a mounting bracket for the 2 hole combination valve making it much easier to make the hardlines before the install. This is what the bracket looks like...



There are 2 styles of Comb Valve brackets, this 2 hole style and a much more common, single point mount. It looks like this;



I can’t tell you which year, model or options to look for to find this style bracket, (I think it may be which assembly plant the car came from) as mine is a 85 SC, 305 LG4 Auto with factory rear discs and I pulled this bracket from a 86 or 87 firebird w/ 2.8 auto and drum rear. If you have the single point mounted CV, you will have to do more fabricating or will need to locate a 2 hole CV bracket.

I started by drilling these two 5/16” holes near the back of the bracket to mount the Hurst Line Lock solenoid.



It is important to check fitment of your LL before this step as the LL will be mounted between the MC and the strut tower. There is very little wiggle room down there and there is very little mounting surface to begin with on this bracket. You don’t want to be drilling holes that and have to redo them because you didn’t double check your fitment. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!!

To mount the LL I used two 25mm M7 bolts, nuts and lock washers.



These came from a local hardware store along with the two bigger M10 bolts and nuts. I’ll show you what I did with those in a little bit. Test fit the LL to the mounting bracket and now would be a good time to clean up the bracket and maybe give it a fresh coat of satin black paint.



Now for mounting the Wilwood Adjustable Proportioning Valve. This bracket mounts any 2 hole CV or PV even though it doesn’t use 2 bolts. This tab inserts into the upper rear mounting hole…

 

To attach the bracket to the MC, use the 2 M10 bolts and nuts to help you bend the brake lines to the right locations.



Now it’s time to start bending your brake line. Make sure the rear circuit adjustment **** is out all of the way to ensure that you will not interfere with its travel when bending custom lines.





Starting with the front brake circuit, (the rear outlet of the MC) use a M11x1.5mm tube nut and Bubble Flare 3/16” brake line. Route the line down and under the MC to your LL. I routed my inlet to the Upper front 1/8” port on the LL using a 1/8” male elbow to female 3/8” x 24 Inverted flare. Note, I found it to be easier to mount the tube nuts in their ports, and route the UNFLARED brake line until I found the best route and bends in the lines. There is one exception with this first line as you’ll need to make your Bubble Flare at the MC before you make the final cut on the inlet to the LL.



MC outlet: M11x1.5mm Bubble Flare to…





3/8”-24 Inverted Flare



The finished line will look like this…



…and this as installed…



That completes the front to Line Lock In circuit.

 

Now onto the rear circuit (front port on MC main body). Using a M12x1.0mm Tube Nut with a Bubble Flare, route a 3/16” line from the rear brake outlet of the MC, over the outlet you just plumbed for the front brake circuit to the LL…



The line goes to a 3/8”-24 Inverted Flare on RI port of the PV.



Finished line should look like this…



Installed







Now for the final brake line, the LL out to FI on the PV. This one is pretty simple with both ends having 3/8”-24 Inverted Flare nuts and flares at both ends.

 

Here is the line finished and installed…














Well there you have it. A new Wilwood Adjustable Proportioning Valve and Hurst Line Lock mocked up, plumbed and ready to be bench bled and installed into your third gen dream. Stay tuned for the install on this MCPVLL assembly, and install of new Russell Braided Stainless Steel brake lines.

 

This looks badass. Looking into something like this on mine once i get it running.

 

Where did u get the fittings from

 

I got them from my local Carquest. It would've been all special order through O'Reilly's or Autozone for twice the cost! I'm sure any NAPA would have them too.

 

Great write up. I'm doing the same thing with all stainless stel lines. Please post up your stainless steel brake line review!

 

I will once I get the car out of storage in spring. The brakes are my first priority along with installing my line lock. I also have an idea to instal I momentary push button switch into my factory shifter ****. I have the automatic so I have a few ideas on how I want to go about making that happen. I figure it can't be too hard.

 

Great write-up. I'm in the process of putting together almost the identical parts in my build. I didn't think to use the stock bracket...I might take another look and see if it looks better than the one I made.

Just curious...does the line lock have to go between the master and the prop valve or can it go after the prop valve (assuming that you block off one of the front outlets and run single line off the prop valve to a T-fitting)?

 

There were many reasons why I went the route I did. The main reasons being simplicity and space available. I decided to use a stock bracket so I didn't necessarily have to re-engineer the stock design. The Wilwood Prop valve bolted in place of the old combo valve, so ideally a bolt in installation was the most practical.

Now the reason I plumbed the line lock the way I did, was so that I could avoid using a Tee fitting. The OE combo valve has both front lines plumbed into it, so routing the new lines the same way was the easiest.

If I was going to reuse the OE combo valve instead, I would've had to put the line lock after the valve. NHRA regulations state that if a line lock is installed, it cannot be plumbed in before a differential pressure switch. This is also known as the "brake" warning light on your dashboard. Since I am replacing the OE valve with the Wilwood prop valve, the differential switch is deleted. I also want to wire my taillights into the pressure switch in the front circuit, so when the line lock is being used, my taillights are still lit.

 

How are you planning on connecting the larger 1/4" diameter rear brake line to the proportioning valve? The front brake lines are 3/16". I'm doing the exact same thing and ran into this issue.

 

I'm not sure. I know that the rear line isn't the same diameter as the front. I was thinking of using a 3/16" line and use a bubble flair union and adapt to the larger line. Or I was thinking of just replacing the whole front to rear line with a 3/16" line. I'd have to set the prop valve to the same pressure as the original line. How did you go about adapting your system?

 

I just did this
Just cut off stock fitting nd install a 1/4 in line fitting than a 3/16 to 1/4 adapter for prop valve its easy

 

I just did this
Just cut off stock fitting nd install a 1/4 in line fitting than a 3/16 to 1/4 adapter for prop valve its easy

 

Where did you get the 3/16 to 1/4 inch adapter? and what kind of flare did you use?

 

I figured it out. I had tunnel vision...


Heres what you need to do.


Cut the M12x1.0 Fitting off. Re-flare to an inverted flare using a 7/16-24 Line Fitting


Connect to a 1/4" to 3/16" Line Adapter with 7/16-24 Female Threads and a 3/8-24 Inverted Male Thread.


Perfect.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-43303/overview/


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-785-291/overview/