Camaro86IrocZ

iTrader: (1)

Think I would've sacrificed a pair of needle nose pliers by now and been on to the next issue of the day.. I usually just Put on a good tune and step on and off the brake pedal and pull the handle up and down at the same time... Feel like a monkey for a second or two, but gets em close and keeps em tight.. your experience may vary.. but really, Get used to pulling the handle...

gta_knight

Tried all that. I think the gap is too great to begin with to tighten it up.

I bought one of the caliper cubes then before it was delivered my back has gone (I've got a prolapsed disc) I've been off work for a week now and I can' stand up straight. So obviously I havnt even looked at the car yet 😕 I will keep yous updated though!

gta_knight

just offered up this cube thing and it doesnt fit in anywhere. god damnit. what the hell do you use to wind these pistons out then

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

gta_knight
Watch this video.
Its for an Eldorado, but same system. It will all become clear to you. I used this method with 100% success. Great brakes, e-brake, and high pedal.

gta_knight

so this cube was a waste of time then. This method in the video looks good though. Not sure why he removed the piston entirely just to show us ? But if it's as simple as undoing the lever and rotating it to get it in place then I will give it a go

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Put the rotor in the vise and do your adjustments, then install on car. It works. Just folloe how he done it.

gta_knight

I will do. I' still off work with a bad back so once I can stand up straight again I will pull the calipers off the car. That was one of the old ones in my picture offering up the cube

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Take the cube and....well throw it.
NOTE: If when doing this and you cant get the knurled shaft to back out. Chances are it is bottomed out in the piston. Rebuilt or not, they just throw these together and give the impression that you just put them on. Both of mine were bottomed out.So I had to unscrew them like in the video.

nova983

I used a pair of needle nose pliers. If it won't budge then it might be stuck. You can try rotating the spot where the cable arm piece attaches. To act like the arm is being swung back and forth. It might help free it up. Honestly it is only going to work so well. I upgraded my brakes to get rid of the issue for good.

gta_knight

judging by the pedal travel and the way my brake pads just flap around I would say it'
Most definitely bottomed out in there so needs to come out quite a bit. At least I have an action plan now !

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Yes, Once in the vice, if its bottomed out, you'll know. I think the screw shaft is reverse thread also. Use a wrench to hold the nut on the shaft and channel locks on the piston where the clip goes being careful not to tear the boot. Once free, then adjust on rotor. Then line up the slots on the piston to match the brake pad. Once finally adjusted, be careful not to move anything till back on car.

gta_knight

well, finally got a chance to sort these brakes out. drivers side is done and back on the car. the handbrake lever engages really quickly after coming off the stop which is great, nice and tight.

the passenger side...that is still on the bench. ive tried 3 times today to get it right and its just not happening, I don't get it. the handbrake lever doesn't engage until its halfway, and really locks on with a bit more force. so naturally you would think the piston needs tweeked slightly to move the nut around more slightly allowing the lever to be rotated into the better positon.

its just not happening though, I cant seem to get a happy medium between the nut and the piston no matter how I rotate it. its driving me crazy

thunder85

iTrader: (1)

sorry to resurrect an old thread but has anyone just tried rotating the piston while its on the car? I've used the cube tool on my 88 to turn caliper pistons in so i can change brake pads but never knew about this off the car calibration method. i might be missing something but it seems like you could just turn it out so you're relatively close to touching and not have to dismantle the ebrake or pull the caliper off. if the ebrake engages halfway through the pull instead of a fraction of an inch of movement its still going to stop the car

KyleF

I didn't rotate my cylinders at all when getting the parking brake adjusted.

I used a washer for a spacer over the caliper bolt, marked an alignment area where the lever would go on, put boxed end wrench on, put bolt over wrench. This was to keep the screw from going in and leaving it exposed for the lever arm. Then adjusted it out until the pads were tight against the rotor. Check location for lever installation. Had to do it 3 or 4 times until the bolt stopped in the correct spot.

After doing both wheels and attaching cables. Adjusted the equalizer until the parking brake arm was difficult to get to 14 clicks (Not the most scientific of adjustments).

This can all be done with the calipers on the car.