Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

I'm upgrading my brakes at all 4 corners and expect that I will need an adjustable proportioning valve. There are several threads here and in other forums using the Wilwood 260-11179, which sells for about $90 and is a 2 inlet, 3 outlet valve with a stop lamp pressure switch. Wilwood also has a single inlet, single outlet valve 260-10922 for about $42. Why would I need the more expensive valve? It seems like they both have the same functional/pressure specs. Obviously I'll need to tee the front lines together, but I don't think that's worth twice the cost of the single inlet/outlet valve. What am I missing? Why are more people talking/posting about the 260-11179 when it seems the 260-10922 is more cost effective and does the same thing?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

There is no advantage to the 5-port model. The stop lamp switch is unusable with your stock warning light. Just avoids using a Tee if that is against your religion.

Lurbie

iTrader: (3)

Thanks QwkTrip, that's what I was hoping to hear.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

I was wondering this exact same thing myself as it i one of the projects to do on the car this winter.

Good to hear clarification about it.

I was deciding between these two, but its good to learn that the 5 port one wont work and that I should just go with the one in- one out version.

My rear 12"PBR conversion brakes from flynbye are great but even thought I installed a disc/disc proportioning valve years ago, my rear brakes never felt like they were doing the "proper" amount of work. I was reading on TGO about buying a different spring and replacing it in the PropValve, but I also was curious about adjustable PropValves.

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I think my plan is this (and correct me if I am making a mistake or not thinking this out correctly).
I need more rear brake input. I will get the Wilwood 260-10922. I will then find a place along the length of the brake line going t the rear axle and cut the brake line. I'll then need to flare it accordingly ( to be an inverted 3/8" flare with 24 nuts? ) after putting the fittings onto the line. Then I will take the rubber cap and nut off of the front part of the PropValve, remove the spring assembly completely, and put the nut/cap back on. Add fluid and bleed the whole brake system. I will then go for a short ride around the neighborhood making adjustments to the PropValve via turning the **** until I get the rear brakes feeling more grabby.

sound about right? anything else I need to consider?