Not sure which forun to post this but here it goes.


If you had $3000 to spend how would you spend it?

1. Paint Job – My paint is only SO-SO
2. a. Sub frame connectors
b. Big Brake Upgrade
c. Headers
3. 383 Stroker

I got a Xmas bonus and I already spent it several ways in my mind.
Not sure what to do.
I was thinking since my 305 still runs OK get the rest of the car ready for the increased Horsepower. So what do think I should do? I could spend 3x times this much if I had it.

Thanks for any Help

 

4th gen dash and door panels
brake upgrade
posi rearend

 

Getting my Sport Coupe running properly and legally.

 

I already have a Posi rearend, but I guess I could regear to 3.73, and shift kit and Hurst Dual Gate Shifter.

So many options.

 

Id finish off my 406...get it in (1500 bucks or so left to invest in it)
...Id buy a set of 17" ROH Snypers w/ tires...

any left over would go into gas LoL

 

1. Paint
2. Top
3. 2" cowl hood
4. Roll cage
5. Borla exhaust
6. Build my 350
I think i overshot the 3000 mark by about a million but thats the order i would get stuff in.

 

I cant stand how terrible my brakes are, that would be the first thing on my list. Then subframe connectors and lowering springs along with new shocks and struts, maybe if I was feeling adventurous Id spring for a poly bushing kit.

 

1) Front load washing machine
2) Homemade extra 1/2 bathroom

Gosh, growing old gets old.

 

LOL, I here ya!
I'd go buy a rust free third gen "driver" and build a strip car outa my current one.

 

$3000 will barely get me an engine i want... AFR Street Eliminator Heads at 1400...
But realistically i would need to get before that:
SFCs (200)
12 Bolt beefed up rearend (1400)
Beefed up tranny (1000)
Suspension work alone will cost about $3000...
Damn, you just made me realize how expensive having these type of cars really is...

 

I'd probably go for a rear end. Whatever was left over would go into my gas tank.

 

What is your intended use for this car? Street driving? Looks? Sounds? Drag racing? Auto-X or Roadracing?

 

First a little History of preevious work.

I've already had a suspension worked on: New struts & shocks, ball joints, new center link and 4 new tires.
When I bought it had a 3" exhaust from the manifolds to the muffler. I replace the Cat with a 3" Catco.
The Transmission was rebuilt a year ago.

Future work is still in the plannig stage.

I want it to look good. I like the way it looked leaving the dealer in 89.
I also don't like being killed by a 4 door Subaro with a 6" tall scope.
I also want to be able to stop as well go fast.
I know $3000 won't get it to where I want it to be,but it's a start.

 

i would keep saving another 3 grand to get a nice properly tuned EFI 383 and built 700R4

 

Id return my cam,heads, get junk yard heads and have them extensivley ported, then get a good cam, swap in a t56 and a 3.42 posi do some suspension mods(sub frame connectors) and something else, and save every penny i have left

 

I would do chassis work first. Subframe connectors are a must on these cars. If you feel like you want to do more chassis work then look into a strut tower bar. A wonderbar or steering brace is another chassis mod, but your 89 IROC-Z should have came with one stock (not worth it for an aftermarket one in my opinion). Next I would do a shift kit if that wasn't done yet, makes a huge difference in how the car drives. Better rear gearing will definately help, but that will be a tough choice. Either you're gonna spend $500+ to change out whats in there for the good stuff 3.7x+ (and then wonder if you should have spent another $500 to go aftermarket), or you can spend $200-$300 and just swap in a different OEM rearend with a little bit better gearing (3.2x would be better, 3.4x from a manual car would be the best). I've always gone the second route because I'm a cheapskate. For a front brake upgrade I would look into the C5 or C4HD fronts, Baer is overpriced in my opinion. For the rear brakes, your 89 should already have the good PBR's, re-use them if you swap rearends. As far as making more power on the cheap I would do headers, I'd convert the LB9 to Carb (RPM air-gap manifold and a 650cfm), and swap in an aftermarket cam (no longer needs to be computer friendly, max out the capability of the heads).

 

I didnt realize you were asking what we would do in your situation...I thought the question was rhetorical

 

ZZ4 cam $150
56cc .540 lift trickflow heads $1,160
msd 6a box $179
EBL $300
ostrich $175
Crane rev-kit $150
diy wb o2 ?
march mid mount pulley set up with alt relocation $509 (I think it's pretty, tee hee)
46mm Xtremefi TBI unit $230
Having a high 12 second 2800 lb 305 tbi car.........priceless
Plus about $147 left for misc. gaskets fluids or what not.

 

How the hell do you plan on getting your car down to 2800lbs and still drive it on the street??? I want to do it!!!

 

A semester in college.

 

Not one of the options

 

HAH A LS1!!!

 

i would get a daily driver for college.. live in hawaii and college at OSU.. no car=walking.. sucks soo bad..

 

good luck getting an ls1 for 3k

 

you can get a 5.3 LSx for under a G. But thats what I would do. If I did an auto/LSx I think I could keep it at 3 grand. T56 might run me a bit more.

 

my buddy bought an 02' with 40k on it for 1400... complete to every last nut and bolt with wiring, exhaust, ecu, etc.....

another 750 for the t56 and hes still way under 3k, the deals are out there, gotta look for them

 

well i'm down to 3060 with me and a half a tank a gas in it.I'd probably be lighter if I still had my enkei wheels.(outlaw 2 knockoff with gold centers)

 

I bought a 88 iroc with my 3000$, talked him down to 2500 though

 

go buy my friend Marcus's notchback mustang for around $400, buy a HO 302 for $350, redo heads-free excluding parts, cylinder head parts $200, buy a ******* performance c4 $900, buy a used nitrous kit $200, buy a used but built 8.8 with 4.10's or 4.30's - $400, used slicks $200, but a cam, and i would still have money left, and be in the low 12's-high 11's

 

buy a rollcage spend the rest on building the badest motor you can think of. thats all that. once that is done make it look pretty.

 

id deffy get subframe connectors. thats the frist one , second get some really nice headders with out egr . Get like 1 3/4 from slp , they will work if you get a different engine . you have posi but only 2.73 , find a rear end with 3.23s . Or you could buy a nice 12 bolt or 9 inch . To do the big brake upgrade your gonna need bigger rims . Thats something to consider.

 

[QUOTE=To do the big brake upgrade your gonna need bigger rims . Thats something to consider.[/QUOTE]


I have 16" Rims and the LS1 12" Rotors on the Upgrade are supposed to fit.

Wheel Fitment
The LS1 brake kit will fit all stock style f-body 16" wheels, except for the TransAm/Firebird crosslace wheel. To use this wheel, minor clearancing or the use of a wheel spacer will be necessary.

Well Here's what I decided on so Far:

Big Brake Upgrade, "LS1" $735 shipped
http://www.metzcon.com/bigbrake/products.htm

I'm having Alston's Sub frame connectors welded on by Dyno Don here in So. Cal. $245.00 installed

I found a paint shop through friends that is going to give me a first class paint job including softball sized dent on Passenger's door, removal of all rubber before paint and then reinstalling it, grinding and repairing the rust under the T-Tops. $2500.00


I know I spent more than I planned but my bonus was more than I thought even after taxes.

So thanks for all the advice Guys

 

1. Bushmaster AR-15 .223 Carbine -$1000
2. Springfield Armory chrome plated 1911 .45 ACP - $700
3. Hooker 2055 long tubes- $300
4. Chrome C-5 Wheels w. tires- $900
5. Case of beer for installation- $20
6. Bag of "happy" for afterwards....$50
7. Doritos, cookies, frozen pizzas, $20

whatever is leftover id probably just lose anyway

good thing i dont have $3k, thats a lot of stupid stuff i just bought....

 

new headliner, driver's seat belt assembly, fix brakes, fix the cruise control, then pay my insurance

 

1. 9" Rear end
or
2. New Paint job
or
3. Nitrous Kit
4. Tires
5. Fuel

 

WELL I JUST BOUGHT A 1987 TRANS-AM 5.0 RED WITH T-TOPS. ON IT'S WAY FROM DETROIT TO TAMPA HOPEFULLY JAN 3.

SO FAR, I GOT $1350 IN A ENGINE BLOCK CLEANED BORED AND 100% NEW PARTS. $620 GOT ME A REBUILD 700R4 TRANNY AND NEW TORQUE CONVERTER.

$100 FOR SANDER, BODY FILLER AND SAND PAPER CAUSE I'M DOING ALL THE PREP BODY WORK MYSELF. $260 FOR THE DU-PONT PAINT/CLEAR-COAT AND $330 LABOR TO PAINT 2 COATS PRIMER AND FINISH JOB.

PARTS WITH LIFETIME WARRANTY BEING REPLACED:

105-AMP ALTERNATOR $83.43
CERAMIC PADS $160.00
ROTORS $240.00
STARTER $50
A/C COMPRESSOR $134.00
CONDENSOR $85.00
A/C BLOWER MOTOR $40
STRUTS $100
SHOCKS $60
POWER STEER PUMP $55.00
POWER STEER LINES $56
RADIATOR $120
RADIATOR FAN $40
DISTRIBUTOR $100
COMPUTER $94
COIL SPRINGS $160
WHEEL BEARINGS $20
FUEL TANK $228
FUEL LINES $38


STUFF NOT COVERED BY LIFETIME WARRANTY

FUEL INJECTORS $200
$380 FLO-MASTER EXHAUST

LIST SUBJECT TO CHANGE DEPENDING ON HOW MANY MORE PARTS I'M GOING TO REPLACE. HAVE I GONE OVER $3000 YET???

 

$4773.43

NAW YOU STILL HAVE TO BUY MORE....LOL.

 

I had my subconnectors welding in yesterday and while talking with "Dyno Don", a local guy who used to race back in the day and now has a shop and only works on 3rd gens, showed me some of his home made Headers and just how restrictive the stock exhaust system is. Anyway I'm postponing the paint and he's going to install a set of his headers, fab up a custom Y-pipe and install a Cat-Back system and maybe throw on a Transgo shift kit. This guy does everything front bumper to bumper on our cars.

Oh and I also bought a 93 Camry to drive around while my IROC is being worked on. That pretty much eats up my paint money. But my car still isn't ugly, it looks good from 10 feet away.

 

3 grand? I'd make a 8.5 10 bolt work under my car. Then front and rear disc so I can actually stop. Rebuild my seats. Get some glass t-tops. And all new steering linkages, including box and steering shaft with u-joints. I already got my IROC springs and koni shocks waiting in the garage.

 

down payment on a procharger....

 

www.ingdirect.com

 

Insurance, E-test, and a turbo kit. Maybe, if I'm feeling saucy, a set of 16" Iroc rims.

 

$200- superior axle kit
$150- summit aluminum differential cover
$100- LS1 DS
$550- custom EDGE 9.5 in TC
$950- custom rebuilt 700r4 from LS1Bob(local 9 second LSx guy)
$100- AC Delete
$150- ABS Headliner
$300- Send my SLP Zr1s(2) to weldcraft wheels, widen 2" to 17x10
$275- Kumho MXs(2) in 285/40/17s
$225- Various bolts, fluids, gas, and some more por15

how's that sound?

 

SS Hood
91-92 Z28 Spoiler
New driver side fender
Jet black paint job with everything left over

Im hoping to do that sometime soon, i almost have the money.....i just need another job.

 

This post was not 3rd Gen related. Take your Rustang baloney someplace else.

 

where in the first post of this thread does it say it has to do with third gen stuff? i didn't see it. if you re-read it, it says if you had $3g's how would you spend it, i could spend $1500-including the price of the car and have a faster car than your camaro, and it isn't rusty, and my stang i have right know doesn't have any rust, come show me where it is rusty, and when you wanna race, just pm me, i'll bet you i will win, RE-READ THE FIRST POST slowpoke

 

Although it doesn't say anything in the post, it kinda says it in the website....everywhere. But for the love of god can we not start a war between mustangs and camaros/firebirds?

 

again, i was talking about the thread, it doesn't say it even has to be about a car, i know the site is thirdgen.org, i am just replying to the thread, he wants to know what i would do with $3,000, if it were car related, you know what i would do, but realistically i would probably pay my college what i owe them, i am not trying to bash anything, just stating a fact

 

Dang!!

Couldn't get a lot for $3K!

$3K would just about cover the cost of a respray or a rebuilt 350.

 

I didn't mean to leave you under the impression that your mustang is a rust bucket, it may or may not be, I don't know. But I do know that I'm not driving to OK to check for rust or to race your car. Enough Mustangs around here have been left behind to travel all that way to chalk another one up. My family's 3 for that matter. I'm the only GM guy in my family, and I show them all up. Hit me up when you're on Power Tour, then we'll have to see what's up.