Hey guys. So despite reading all the warnings about not letting the reservoir go dry cause then I'd have to bench bleed, I let the reservoir run dry. Just barely and just the front compartment of the reservoir. I was keeping an eye on it so it wasn't dry by much. Does that matter (the 'just barely' part)? I'm hoping for an answer like this: "as long as the back compartment of the reservoir was full, you're ok". If there is a little air in the MC, is it just spongy brakes?

Thanks

 

You done messed up, A-A-Ron.

You won't really know until you get the entire system bled and the brakes don't work because you have a huge air bubble in the master cylinder. Leaving it be at this point would be like building a house without a foundation. Best bet is to remove the master, get a bench bleeding kit, clamp it level in a vice and bleed it until no bubbles come out. Carry it over to the car, don't spill brake fluid on the car, bolt it in and get the lines attached before the reservoir drips dry. Bleed the entire brake system until it's free of air bubbles. Don't make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks Drew. I took the MC off and I see this fluid on the booster. Is it likely that fluid has entered the booster and I need to replace it? Or does this appear like something else?

 

And I am assuming the MC needs to be replaced ?

 

Depends on if the fluid overflowed from the back of the reservoir, or if it leaked past the O-rings. It's easy enough to not get the cap snapped down all the way, then you'll get overflow. If the seals on the piston leak, it'll run out the back like that. Assuming it's the original aluminum master cylinder, a fresh set of seals might take care of it. I wouldn't think it'd hurt the booster, it's just steel and rubber. Clean the fluid off the booster before it eats the paint and it should be fine. If the paint is already lifted, clean it well and touch it up to prevent rust.