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I’m going crazy about an issue i have. Master cylinder, booster, rear calipers,rear brake lines have been replaced. Factory cast brake valve was cleaned and inspected. While car is in air on jacks push brake pedal and front tires lock up real good. Rear brakes i have to pump several times to get it to spot rear brakes. (All these issues were before i replaced parts). My dad ordered a pv4ac valve. Attempted
to i stall but lines were not right. Do i have to install new lines for master cylinder or all of them… im really frustrated because i dont want to mess with car lines. Please help!! 1985 iroc z. Factory 4 wheel disc brakes
I’m going crazy about an issue i have. Master cylinder, booster, rear calipers,rear brake lines have been replaced. Factory cast brake valve was cleaned and inspected. While car is in air on jacks push brake pedal and front tires lock up real good. Rear brakes i have to pump several times to get it to spot rear brakes. (All these issues were before i replaced parts). My dad ordered a pv4ac valve. Attempted
to i stall but lines were not right. Do i have to install new lines for master cylinder or all of them… im really frustrated because i dont want to mess with car lines. Please help!! 1985 iroc z. Factory 4 wheel disc brakes
Disclaimer: I know NOTHING WHATSOEVER about "pv4ac valve".
What I DO know however, is that over the course of the 84 model year production, the factory switched from SAE inverted-flare fittings in the brake system, to metric bubble-flare ones. Meaning the PVs might have been identical INTERNALLY, butt the lines won't hook up. The sealing seats are different, the lines are different diameter, the threaded holes are different diameter, and the threads are different. Other than that they're pretty much the same. You have a 85, so the car is metric.
The Imperial and metric sizes aren't all that much different, in the end; after all, the same amount of fluid has to be moved and all such as that, no matter which "standard" is chosen. Both are perfectly functional and adequate and "good" as far as any of that goes. The only problem is (ahem: [CorporateAmerica] "we don't have problems here, we only have opportunities for solutions" [/CorporateAmerica] that they're not "the same". Some of them are close enough (8mm & 5/16" for example) that they're all butt interchangeable. Some (6mm and ¼", which is 6.35mm, roughly .014" apart, for example) are "close enough" that with a little forethought and ingenuity and the right tools, you can take a line of the one size, and put the right nut and the right process on it, to make it bolt right into the other. Not ALL, butt, quite a few. Without knowing anything about "pv4ac valve", I'd bet that since you have a 85 car, it's metric; butt "pv4ac valve" is SAE. So all you gotta do is ... what I just described. Or, forget abuncha shinies like "pv4ac valve" that you've polished all up and will now have to polish every single weekend from now to eternity to keep it from getting all crusty and that crustiness being OBVIOUS against the whole "shiny" thing you've got going on, and take your old PV apart, clean it up, put the Grainger spring mod in it, and put it back on your car.
"Adapters" sound great, and MIGHT work, butt space is kinda limited around that thing. Might be REAL TUFFFF to get an extra inch or whatever to fit in there. (that's what SHE said too) I'd consider all other possible options before "adapters", although, as a last resort, that's what you might be stuck with. I kinda doubt it though.
Your new shiny prop valve has inverted flare fittings that I would assume are SAE (inch) thread.
Pop a line off your stock valve and take a photo of the inside of the hole, and we can tell you if it is inverted flare or metric bubble.
