cold winter starting prob
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 74
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From: canada
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 2.8l-(350 on the way)
Transmission: auto-(for the wife)
cold winter starting prob
Hello to ALL my Canadian Fbody friends from Northern New Brunswick.Well the old 'Bird is having trouble firing up on those cold days and the plugs are getting soaked with gas,the starter is new the battery is fully charged, the car is plugged in and still the same problem .Could a bad MAF constitute this problem?
Glad for any input!!!!
1987 Pontiac Firebird
2.8L
MPFI
Glad for any input!!!!
1987 Pontiac Firebird
2.8L
MPFI
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
You would be better off to post this on the Tech/General Boatd. But, let's start with the obvious. When is the last time it's been tuned up? (Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air & fuel filter, etc).
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I don't think so. But it does raise the question about the condition of the fuel injectors as well. It wouldn't be a bad idea to run a couple of cans of injector cleaner through on a few tanks on top of a good tune-up.
Also, I like to spray carb cleaner down the Throttle Body (even on a port injected engine). All of these little things can make a difference. One thing I would especially look at is the distributor cap. I have found "arc'ing" inside of the cap to be a common problem on many GM cars with the OBD I systems with a computer-controlled HEI distributor.
It has to do with the way GM fires the electronics. The spark advance is actually fired before the rotor touches the electrode in the cap (unlike the classic dissy system where the spark is fired when the rotor tip touches the electrode). It is actually possible to give too much spark advance and cause the dissy to fire backwards to the previous electrode (though this is more of a worry on the V8s where there is only 90% separating the electrodes and 45* is the mid-point).
Also, I like to spray carb cleaner down the Throttle Body (even on a port injected engine). All of these little things can make a difference. One thing I would especially look at is the distributor cap. I have found "arc'ing" inside of the cap to be a common problem on many GM cars with the OBD I systems with a computer-controlled HEI distributor.
It has to do with the way GM fires the electronics. The spark advance is actually fired before the rotor touches the electrode in the cap (unlike the classic dissy system where the spark is fired when the rotor tip touches the electrode). It is actually possible to give too much spark advance and cause the dissy to fire backwards to the previous electrode (though this is more of a worry on the V8s where there is only 90% separating the electrodes and 45* is the mid-point).
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: canada
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 2.8l-(350 on the way)
Transmission: auto-(for the wife)
winter starting problem
Thanks alot people,
Lets start with the tune up, ALL has been replaced; plugs,cap,rotor,oil,oil filter,air filter.The timing was checked and is fine.The starter was replaced,the alternator was fine,the battery fully charged.
Im waitng on another distributor because the old one was rusty inside.So when that is done ,I'll let you know what differnce it made.
The weather hasn't been to good to go outside and work on it. As for the posting,I figure the more places I post,the more luck I'll have at getting a response.
I always use gas line anti-freeze with injector cleaner in it.I'm also waiting for another MAF sensor.The IAC was removed and cleaned and checked for calibration.The TPS was also checked and it's voltage was within the recommended range.
As for the cold start injector ,first chance I get to disconnect it,I will,just to see if it makes any difference.
Thanks Again
Ron
Lets start with the tune up, ALL has been replaced; plugs,cap,rotor,oil,oil filter,air filter.The timing was checked and is fine.The starter was replaced,the alternator was fine,the battery fully charged.
Im waitng on another distributor because the old one was rusty inside.So when that is done ,I'll let you know what differnce it made.
The weather hasn't been to good to go outside and work on it. As for the posting,I figure the more places I post,the more luck I'll have at getting a response.
I always use gas line anti-freeze with injector cleaner in it.I'm also waiting for another MAF sensor.The IAC was removed and cleaned and checked for calibration.The TPS was also checked and it's voltage was within the recommended range.
As for the cold start injector ,first chance I get to disconnect it,I will,just to see if it makes any difference.
Thanks Again
Ron
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 5
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I noticed you didn't mention a fuel filter. Have you replaced that one as well? Also, have you checked your fuel pressure?
As for the MAF, generally you get an SES light if there is something wrong with the MAF. Are you getting any SES lights? And, even with a bad MAF, you can often get the car to start - it just doesn't run well.
A "leaky" fuel injector will soak your plugs but because you lost your fuel pressure, requires the fuel pump to work for a while before it properly pressurizes the fuel rails. Thus it will often be hard to start.
If your fuel rails loose all pressure in a short period of time (less than 24 hours), I would look at your injectors. I would install a fuel pressure guage on the Schraeder Valve, note the fuel pressure, turn on the key (and listen for the fuel pump to start) and note the fuel pressure.
As for the MAF, generally you get an SES light if there is something wrong with the MAF. Are you getting any SES lights? And, even with a bad MAF, you can often get the car to start - it just doesn't run well.
A "leaky" fuel injector will soak your plugs but because you lost your fuel pressure, requires the fuel pump to work for a while before it properly pressurizes the fuel rails. Thus it will often be hard to start.
If your fuel rails loose all pressure in a short period of time (less than 24 hours), I would look at your injectors. I would install a fuel pressure guage on the Schraeder Valve, note the fuel pressure, turn on the key (and listen for the fuel pump to start) and note the fuel pressure.
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