MTX Thunder 8000's wont fit in hole cut for 10's!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Broomall, PA
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS; 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Brougham
Engine: LH0 3.1 Liter V6; YBN 2.8 Liter V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4; TH-440
MTX Thunder 8000's wont fit in hole cut for 10's!
Yo guys,
I just got my MTX Thunder 8000 Subwoofers, after a whole big mess of an ebay transaction, and I go to mount them up to my box, they dont slide in like my Orion Cobalt's did. They go in until the spider dish gets bigger in diameter and they get stuck, so I have a one inch gap between my subwoofer mounting ring, and my wood on the sub box. The box is by Pro Audio, custom made for a 92 Camaro (or any thirdgen coupe for that matter), and made out of Particle Board 3/4 inch. What should I do to make it fit? I was told by other people to raud (sp) out the diameter of the speaker so it would fit. I only need a half an inch or so bigger hole so these puppies can slide in and blow my windows out. The box is carpeted however, maybe it will get caught in the rauder. Any ideas let me know, thank you guys.
I just got my MTX Thunder 8000 Subwoofers, after a whole big mess of an ebay transaction, and I go to mount them up to my box, they dont slide in like my Orion Cobalt's did. They go in until the spider dish gets bigger in diameter and they get stuck, so I have a one inch gap between my subwoofer mounting ring, and my wood on the sub box. The box is by Pro Audio, custom made for a 92 Camaro (or any thirdgen coupe for that matter), and made out of Particle Board 3/4 inch. What should I do to make it fit? I was told by other people to raud (sp) out the diameter of the speaker so it would fit. I only need a half an inch or so bigger hole so these puppies can slide in and blow my windows out. The box is carpeted however, maybe it will get caught in the rauder. Any ideas let me know, thank you guys.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,231
Likes: 1
From: Manassas, VA
Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Sure you can add more. IF you want to be creative with fiberglass. 
>well routers can be expencive, unless you take it to a home depot of something and ask them to do it for you. They might be cool about that. Well What I would so is
>if you do it my way you will need the following
>An American made tape measure 5.00
>Jig saw from a pawnshop 15-20.00
>Blades from home depot 3.00
>If you dont have safty glasses now would be a good chance to get some 5.00
>bondo and the hardener that mixes with it. 4- 5.00 for both
>if you see a router for 30 bucks get it instead
1st, get some kinda white marker
2nt, Turn the sub upsidedown and draw a line around the sub.
3rd, While the sub in in the same place go ahead and mark the holes and drill them. It would be good to circle the holes with the marker so you know where they are and dont cut to far.
5th, get out the old tape measure and measure the distance on the sub between the screw hole and the backside of the sub that the box will be touching. Shouldnt be all that much. Once that is done measure out from the new screw holes in the speaker box to the center of the whole speaker box. Mark it for each new screw hole that you drilled. Now play connect the dots and draw a circle from all these markings. This will be the new hole.
6th, fill the old holes with bondo. (use mixing directions I use about 4-5 dropps of hardener for each square inch of bondo)
7th, Get a Jig saw from a pawn shop and some extra blades from home depot. Use the new blades not the old one that the used drill came with.(It could snap and stick you in the eye, if it does get a pic of that and post it here
) Well measure it about 2 or 3 more times so that you can be real sure before you cut the wood cause you dont want extra work. Now hack at it!
Its really easier than it sounds. Just measure as much as you can.
>well routers can be expencive, unless you take it to a home depot of something and ask them to do it for you. They might be cool about that. Well What I would so is
>if you do it my way you will need the following
>An American made tape measure 5.00
>Jig saw from a pawnshop 15-20.00
>Blades from home depot 3.00
>If you dont have safty glasses now would be a good chance to get some 5.00
>bondo and the hardener that mixes with it. 4- 5.00 for both
>if you see a router for 30 bucks get it instead
1st, get some kinda white marker
2nt, Turn the sub upsidedown and draw a line around the sub.
3rd, While the sub in in the same place go ahead and mark the holes and drill them. It would be good to circle the holes with the marker so you know where they are and dont cut to far.
5th, get out the old tape measure and measure the distance on the sub between the screw hole and the backside of the sub that the box will be touching. Shouldnt be all that much. Once that is done measure out from the new screw holes in the speaker box to the center of the whole speaker box. Mark it for each new screw hole that you drilled. Now play connect the dots and draw a circle from all these markings. This will be the new hole.
6th, fill the old holes with bondo. (use mixing directions I use about 4-5 dropps of hardener for each square inch of bondo)
7th, Get a Jig saw from a pawn shop and some extra blades from home depot. Use the new blades not the old one that the used drill came with.(It could snap and stick you in the eye, if it does get a pic of that and post it here
) Well measure it about 2 or 3 more times so that you can be real sure before you cut the wood cause you dont want extra work. Now hack at it!Its really easier than it sounds. Just measure as much as you can.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Broomall, PA
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS; 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Brougham
Engine: LH0 3.1 Liter V6; YBN 2.8 Liter V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4; TH-440
Are the MTX Sub dishes just really big or is my hole too small? My Orion's barely stretched over the hole, but these were cobalts, very VERY cheap. I want to know before I cut it if any other subs are compatible because I dont want to destroy my box should these subs break and I choose to get a different type.
Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: Yardville, New Jersey
no no no, don't trace the sub. It's harder on a box that already has holes. This happen with my Xtants and my AlpineRs...i cut the hole too small then i sit there with a file for an hour getting the holes bigger... find the diameter the MTX8k needs to mount and cut the hole to that size with a router or something....unless you feel like using rat tail file for an hour or so...
- Andy
- Andy
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 1
From: Central CA
Car: 89 Black GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Got to the link that is your sub and look up the specs on the mounting diameter.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...rs/T81044A.pdf
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/T8104A.pdf
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...rs/T81244A.pdf
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/T8124A.pdf
Brian
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...rs/T81044A.pdf
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/T8104A.pdf
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...rs/T81244A.pdf
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ers/T8124A.pdf
Brian
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
man, your a wuse when it comes to do it your self stuff huh? i just took an electrict jigsaw to mine. and i made my own box, so if is screwed it up i would have had to start it all over. quit being such a coward and do it, it's not that big of a deal
*note* this is not intended to be a flame, i was like this once too, but i got over it....
*note* this is not intended to be a flame, i was like this once too, but i got over it....
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