there is a middle ground, the 12w3v2 now is side vented, and sounds GOOD!!!


adam

 

so is this one better than the w0's?
how many watts is each one of those pumping out?

 

they should hold 300/400rms.


adam

 

wow this is the first time i've ventured to the auio board i like your guys ideas i have three jl w-0's but they're in a box that fires at the glass you guys have some good ideas i have them hooked up in parallel through a rockford 500 mono i hit a 141.3 last night at a db drag

 

so would runnin 2 12w3v2's from a 250 watt mtx amp be wise? or should i stick with the j0's

 

Go with the W3's. That would be interesting. I'd like to hear how it sounds. Do you have a box setup for the 12's though? It's gonna be really tight.

 

yeah 12s box.....although for tight......i angled my box 2 in to fit the damn volfenhags subs in there.........actually, tonight i tried flippin the sub upside down to see if i could hear a difference and the sub is so deep that my hatch wouldnt shut by about 3 inches

 

Go with the w3`s that is what I had in my last setup and you will be very pleased with them mine are like three years old and I got them used from some idiot who tore the surround on one and it finally gave out the other day after a year and a half of being like that.

 

Definitely go with the W3's if you have the funds available. It would be a wise investment. The W0's aren't a bad one to buy either, especially if you'd have them firing down. I'm sure the W3's though would sound a lot clearer. Check it out at your local Best Buy, Circuit City, Tweeter, or anything like that. Lemme know how it turns out.

 

there wasnt a big difference with the w0's firing up right? cuz with my box they would need to fire up

 

Well, to me they sounded better firing downwards. I guess you could fire them up also in your case. It's all in your opinion. Were you there when I tried to have them fire upwards? Everyone was saying that they sounded better facing down.

 

hehe yeah i was the one who told u to flip em to see if there was a difference

 

generally when you fire a sub downward or back towards the rear of a car, it will hide a little distortion so you can turn them up louder, without it sounding like crap.


adam

 

Yes, you also tend to get some of the same kind of effect by putting them in a car with a trunk as opposed to a hatch.

 

I have a good plan for that box idea... I have a fully black interior and I could get some black carpet and cover it and make it so you can just take the carpet off, but it would make it look more like a flat deck, with no seam between the box and the gas hump... I love your idea dude!

BTW, do you have pics of how it fits to the back? under where your light is?

Thanks....

 

I will take some pics of the way it fits in the trunk and how much clearance is between it and the hatch piece that extends back into it. Should have them up by this weekend.

 

My set up in my old Iroc. One Kicker Solobaric in a sealed .75 cu box, and a autotek 5ch 550 w amp

 

And another... Everything fit extremely well, And the sound was incredible for what is was.

 

Wow man, that box with the subs down and the amp fins up is sweet! Is there any way that you could get me some dimentions or something like that so I can build my own! :rockon:

 

Am I not the only one that thinks distortion is bad? Not just for sound quality purposes?

 

No, but any low end sub or one being powered by a low end am or something is going to have some distortion even if you arent pushing it to its limit. If they didnt then no one would buy the high end. I myself get really irritated with crappy sounding speakers. I did notice that when I had my old subs in the trunk of my other car that they sounded better than when I had them in my T/A. This is because you dont hear as much of the noise from the cone that is not base/distortion. I have honestly not heard very many systems(highs, lows and mids) that I thought sounded truely clear. I have heard a bunch that sounded good enough that I could listen to it without it bothering me, but when you hear one that is completely distortionless and everything is tuned and mixed right it is just awsome.

Ben

 

if you are pushing for spl you ARE distorting. simple as that, the trick is, to keep that distortion as close to zero as possible at as loud of a volume as possible.

a sub will live a long life if you keep it FREE from distortion, if you keep it minimal, it will give you a long LOUD life.

not saying you have to overplay your subs, (because then id be responsible for some moron cranking his/her subs until they popped 'cuz that guy on the internet said to for loudness)

errr, i dont know how to say it, but when you know, you know, just use your ear and THINK about what your system is doing.

then again, i am also not the kind of person to hear something wrong with my system and drive all the way home without checking to see what it is, i turn it OFF until i can diagnose it.


adam

 

I did this in my 91 RS I had in high school.

Good thing about it is that it hides distortion that lower end systems tend to put out, and that it does reduce rattles.

I bought a pre-fab box for my car for 2 12's and put my RF XLC's in it, and my old school punch 125.2. Kinda dissapointted in the output of it so for **** and giggles, I flipped the box over. Fit like a glove and sounded great.

Later,
Herb

 

I hope you guys realize how short a life your subs will have without being able to move... its like a bandpass box, kids who just get into subs get em cuz they pound, but they rip the **** outta your sub and they are overly distorted... a box facing down may pound like nothing else, but its not worth it believe me. heres mine, i get very little rattle, tho i still wanna dynomat the back... i think i get less rattle cuz its so deep down back there.

 

pic

 

a properly built bandpass box will not destroy a sub, nor distort it. however, most people just buy the premade ones and wonder why they sound like crap. bandpass boxes are some of the most difficult boxes to make correctly, therefor few actually do it. i have a sealed setup, much like the one in the previous post. however, i am looking to build one similar to the original poster's setup. if your sub has enough room in front of it and behind it, it will not get damaged. besides, how are any of these boxes going to destroy a sub. best way to get the most out of a box is to corner load it.

 

What are you talking about?? These subs move just fine. They don't rest on anything. The box is designed so the subs don't hit on anything. They just fire downward into the little box area in the hatch where my amp sits at.

 

The downfire box is a really good idea. I had a 94 Z and I flipped the box over one day and it was the best thing I ever thought of! I want to do what you did becasue i'm in the middle of builing a box right now. Here is my problem; I have 2 fosgate HE2 12's. they are deep mounting subs. You have 2 shallow 10's, any ideas to make mine fit in a similar position without sticking up?

 

12's can work in this idea. All you'd have to do is change the top and bottom boards a little longer and make the angle smaller. If you notice on mine, the tops and bottoms don't go all the way to the plastic pieces by the hatch pulldown. I did this on purpose so there wouldn't be a lot of pounding by that plastic. You can do it if you still leave a little space there.

 

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Nathan\My Documents\My Pictures\New Folder[/IMG]

hey pat.. awesome setup... I give you credit on an awesome idea... i have t-tops and my set up now is just in the way... i have 2 12" pioneer 1241C 1000max 500 rms subwoofers... and the JL 500/1 amplifier... audo bahn 1 fared capacitor... well I would really like to pursue your idea... if you could please message me or post it here with ALL the specs for each angle... Like what kinda measurments you all used to make it... that way i have a starting point and I will expand out from there for my 12's... i have a few ideas in mind it would just help though to have all your measurments to get started.... thx so much ... i'll be sure to let you know how it goes....



also... you said you had that heat shield rattle... someone here sprayed that expanding foam **** up in there... from my personal expieriances that was a horrible idea.... that foam expanding spray will hold moisture terribly causing premature rust and problems... that is from my past encounters... just a word of advice...




Vetter

 

sorry about the blank pic there... my goof




Vetter

 

There is a drawing I made up in this post somewhere for my setup. Also, I found out why the heat shield rattled so much. It was missing a couple screws, so that was pretty much an easy fix. If you still have any questions, lemme know and I'll try to help out as much as I can.

 

ya you guys wanna know another way to maximize bass .... and this works as a security device so to say..... on my sub box now it goes down to that ledge then goes all the way down into the well there.... in each sub compartment i drilled a 3/4 inch hole through the box and then through the bottom of the car... i then put in a 3/4 in... bolt with washer on bottom side and a washer and bolt the inside of the box.... then wrenched that box down solid to the frame of the car.... to get to the nut you have to remove each sub... so theres no way anyone could steel my box at least... subs ya could.... but with having it bolted down its solid with the car and increases bass by 120 % i couldn't believe the improvements.... that box is down so tight you can't even tuck wires under the top board ledge... just a thought for those of you maximizing your bass.



also pat... how many cubic feet are each compartments of your box you have now... ?? just so i know what i'll be working with cause now my box goes all the way down to the bottom of the well and each side is 1.4.... thx




Vetter

 

this isn't a flame, but are you sure it's bolted to the frame and not the floorpan ?

 

*cough cough*

excuse me everyone I stand corrected... yes, you are definatly right Logikal. not bein a ßitch or anything here but your right... the box will be bolted to the floor panel there... yes that metal isn't as strong as a fram but when you have two large bolts going through it into your sub box and have them wrenched tight it will pull the box downward into the well and the box already fits snug so now its just being smooshed into the well area making it just as much a part of the floor pan as the floor pan is.... and that floor pan is solidly attached to the frame of the car making the box practically in unison with the frame giving maximum bass and sending out some vibrations of amazement... kinda a iffy thing depends how you think.. this is how i think... thx




Vetter

 

Dont think heat would be a problem at all, i mean, sure the amp is covered but you have two subs farting right on its face whenever its turned on. Better then any 12v computer fan choped up into a car audio cooling app. IMHO.

 

yeah the subs will be "farting" on its face but they will also be "farting" the warm air the amp creates.

 

I really want to try this, I'm only going to use one 10" sub. I'm worried about damaging the sub though. What if I cut a hole in the plate to let some of that trapped air out of the well??

 

Then that would be called a port my friend. Talk about bringing a post back from the dead!

 

ITS ALIVE!!! lol

Would it really be a port though, cause the sub will still be in a sealed box.

know what i mean??

ps thanks for the quick reply!

 

like this:

 

I think you would be making a band pass box in that order then. Where as you have one sealed chamber and one ported. Your idea is'nt a bad one, it would just take dsome math to figure out how to get it to sound right.

 

ah i see, thanks for your help.

So much for that idea. I dont want to get into anything to comlex, oh well

 

just to clarify, i'll only be running one 10" in a small box. Are you guys sure there wont be enough airspace down there? Plus the plate wont be airtight or anything. I'd really love to have everything hidden like this.:hail:

 

I believe its more like 10 db is a perceived doubling of sound. 3 db is the smallest perceivable change in output to the human ear. I can't get my mind around how it could be 'nite and day' difference with only 2 db on the mic? Perhaps a little output, but nite and day?

bmoney

 

That setup is really nice but if your window isn't tinted and you don't have a louver, then you are just asking for it to all get ripped off.

 

that in my opinion is the most retardest thing.. i dont like it one bit ... the reason you dont hear any rattleing i will show you,,,250 watt JL Audio sub amplifier , there ya go .. only pushin 250 if that.. theres always ways to fix rattleing problems without having to shove ur subs down inside the trunk area with all that closed in space.. yuk....


here ya are not much rattles except the doors.. which is fixable. but i did blow my alternator so i need a new one...oh well

 

I think firing down or backwards will always sound better than off the glass.... for deep bass that is

 

Nice setup!

I'm glad you got the rattle sorted out.. I was just about to ask what you were thinking, to put tape on your exhaust lol.