hhahaha

yeah dude Im glad you didnt continue with the wall, no offence, but they are ugly, and the only ugly thing about your car is the engine which is being changed but your new idea is good....haha good luck with it:lala:

 

thanks man.. ditto on your motor:lala: lol

 

haha not for long its not my fault though.....my dad didnt want me to start with a v8

 

you are actually gonna do they v8 swap? man that's a lot of work and its cheaper to find a v8 car and just build it up

I'm very interested in the turbo 3.1 setup that doward might have in the future

 

v8 swap.. find a used 350( couple hundred) and build it up( maybe around $2k) and you have a 350 in a car with a better rearend gear and a 350 with more horsepower than if you bought a v8 car for cheaper...

 

everything I've read is that you need an entire v8 donor car do it properly... and its hard to do it for anywhere near 2k...

you need the mounts, tranny computer, harness, and springs... at least from the v8 car...

If I was gonna go v8 I'd go computer-less... but there's still the annoying thing like, having working AC and cruise control and stuff like that... which many things will unfortunately stop working.

dont forget, you need pretty much all new components... not sure about starter, but the alternator needs new mount, and a lot of other stuff...

The best I've ever seen is for $600 I could buy a junkyard-rebuilt 350 from a trans am of a similar year... complete with ALL accessories, and manifolds, harness, and computer.. no tranny... but for $600, I should have done it... instead of the $2,000 rebuild I paid for my 3.1.... he would have given me a tranny for another 200 bucks... but you would still need the mounts for engine and tranny, and I think the driveshaft is a different lenth(correct me if I'm wrong)

plus the rear-end is a different ratio for a reason, I think you'd be better off going with a real v8 rear end... hell maybe you could find a donor car with all this and even disc brakes on the rear.

 

if your putting a performance motor in .. you wunna go with new performance parts anyway...so would you rather take your V6 put like 2500 into motor and like 5-700$ just in the swap.. or buy a 5000$ car

 

well... i needed new springs so thats not a deal.... i got a 350 the needed a lil work for $250 and the 700R4 bolts right to the v8 or v6. you dont need a computer if you go carbed . dummy engine and no problems yet

 

i would figure the tranny would crap out real soon after a v8 is attached to it

 

well. teh 700r4 is the same all around.. but if you're dumping 300+ hp or torque.. yea you arent gunna have a much lived trans.. t56 wanted...lol need money

 

yeah

IM goin with

The 350 vortec i have shootin 350+ at the wheels

Ls1 rear end /driveshaft

T56 tranny


All in a v6 Rs... insurance will be cheap, plus my plain clean gfx that i like will throw off the "z28 omg it must be quick"

 

my 305 isnt afraid of 350s.... althlough a caddy cts handed my *** to me.. then my exhaust fell off... and i had to pull over. from what i hear.... the caddy had around 400-500 hp and a t56.

if you are just drivn your car or showing it i think that the back seat setup will be sweet

 

I didn't realize that the t56 was so common

 

i have yet to see one but from what i hear.. i got pwned by 400-500 hp 6 speed luxury....

i also raced an evolution VIII with a nasty blow off..... he creamed me and served me with potatoes. he had that" too fast too furious. kit sew blow off

 

I am still hoping that something will happen with that turbo kit Doward wants to sell us!!!

go v6!!

if I had 200 hp I'd be happy forever

 

"go v6" how bout no... but thats your opinion.. anyway.. i also got served by a cadillac...some boy like we were side by side its like he hit nos or sumtin bam

 

I head its called a "Gas Pedal^tm"... he may have used it on you... its really not fair if you ask me.

 

i'll use a famous quote


"Mr. Gorbachav... TEAR..DOWN..THIS..WALL!!!"

 

ha i did tare it down dont worry

 

I would certainly not tell a person to do something simply because I like it ... to each there own. Do what you want.

With that said, here is my actual experience with a semi-wall vs. the "box in the well" in an '85 F-body. Back in the day (late '80's) I had two forward firing 15" Rockford woofers directly behind my back seat. It wasn't a full wall, but as you can imagine, there was only about 3" above the box. The pro woofers were powered with a RF Power 300 and would hit a 141db. I got tired of the obstruction and pulled the box. I built a new one with the two 15's facing upward at the base of the rear window. To get as much volume as possible, the box was about level with the back seat and went that far forward. The woofers nearly touched the back glass when you shut the hatch. We put in the same song (yes, this was back when "Flashdance" was king), using the same meter and I fully expected to loose a couple of db .... It hit a 142.5db, I was blown away. I talked to several people and the concensus was the woofers facing the base of the glass was creating a "horn loaded" woofer similar to those Klipsch uses in their top home speakers. This allowed a better coupling of the bass frequencies to the car resulting in the increased spl.

Like I said, do what you want, but don't discount the benefit of that massive back glass our cars are blessed with!

 

make sure you're locking mechanism and weatherstripping are all in good shape, or you'll get mad vibrations... hell you will probably always get more vibrations in the well, that's one reason people go with the wall---plus it's a conversation waiting to happen.

 

if you have t tops.. any kinda sub enclosure will rattle the car... infact since i put the system in my car.... EVERYTHING rattles..

 

yeah... I just stick thick paper towels behind every panel... then I use locktite on all the screws... seems to help... don't know if I would ever go dynamat tho

 

im thinking of using thick grease in the t-tops, should keep the locking mechanism from rattling too much( which is most of the rattle anyhows)

 

my biggest rattle is the door locks, and just loose plastic panels