i have 2 jl w6 12's in my camaro with a old school power 300 rockfordfosgate hooked to them and i have a Q-logic box to fit in the whole in the back and i dont think that i am gettin all that i can out of them should i build a box all the way across in the trunk/hatch, and i have a old school power 150 to should i hook that up to them to.

 

For starters what impedance (ohms) are the subs running at?

Second, You should save your pennies and buy 2 matching amps... around 500w each. get yourself and optima red/yellow top battery, and a distribution block. Dont run anything less then 4 gauge wire to the back.

Heres what the back seat of my camaro looked like:
I had built a custom box with 1.5 cubic feet of air space in each side, had 2 12" JL W6's. In the back seat (the pic below) I have 2 500.2 amps with a punch link to make it appear as one, 4 1.0 farad caps, and a fuse/dist. block in between them. I was running 2 gauge wire to the back on a 100amp fuse and had a 150 amp alternator and optima red top battery.

-Jim

 

forgot to attach image, lol

 

i wouldn't use caps....also you don't need 2 amps, u can just run 1 bigger one (it doesn't matter) there's box plans around here somewhere floatin around for the dip area........

 

whats up with all this don't use caps stuff? they definetly make a difference. especially since car audio amps use POS switching power supplies. the power supply is the most inportant part of the amp. A stiff power supply will allow the amp to perform its best. It will allow the amp to supply greater current to the output transistors. Besides bass is harder to reproduce because it is a slower wave than the rest of the audio spectrum.

Caps are a good idea.

 

most JL subs run at 3 ohm, if you use 1 amp, and crank it up enough, it will overheat and potentilly destroy the amp. most amp manufaturers can detect the cause of the problem and won't warranty it because it was wired improperly.

If the subs are running at 3 ohm, which i assume they are, you need to get an 2 amps that can handle a 2 ohm mono load, or purchase 1 larger amp with another 12" sub and wire the sub box to a 4 ohm mono.

If you dont understand how to wire DVC subs, or need help, feel free to IM me

 

3 ohms? never heard of a jl sub running 3 ohms.
On my jl's there was no option to run them at 3 on the manuel for them.

 

I read that a few times and I'm still scratching my head..

 

the make differnt ohm ratings on different subs. the reason for a 3 ohm rating was to allow a triple sub box to be mono'ed out to one amp. a lot of people that bought JL subs never realized a difference and bought dual 3 ohm subs thinking they were 2 ohm

 

I know for sure they did it on the W7 line. According to JL it was because a 3 ohm coil was due to sound quality (except the 13w7 which has dual 1.5) To me it looks more like a marketing thing. This gives you more of a reason to buy JL audio amps as the put out the same power @ 1.5-4 ohms.

 

i had 4 12" W6 subs running at 3 ohms