Why is my sub doing this
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Why is my sub doing this
I have 2 pioneer IMPP subs with DVC hooked up at 2 ohm. My sub on the left when it hits you can see it move some but the one on the righrt violenty moves up and down any reason why it is doing this it has been doing it for a while. The bass sounds fine i just fine it one moves and then one violently moves
I have neglected my car for the past 2 years i neglected allot of things on it actualy but now i am able to work on it again and want to get everything going right on it
I have neglected my car for the past 2 years i neglected allot of things on it actualy but now i am able to work on it again and want to get everything going right on it
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
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does it move violently all the time at random, or does it do it in response to the input? In other words, is this thing just flapping around, or is it moving the same as the other one, but just a whole lot more?
Next question. How are the subs wired? Do you have all 4 coils in a series/parallel configuration with the amp bridged, or are you running 1 sub per channel off the amp?
Next question. How are the subs wired? Do you have all 4 coils in a series/parallel configuration with the amp bridged, or are you running 1 sub per channel off the amp?
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
I can pull it out and double check it but when i did it i wired it up exactly how my other one was wired.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by FAST RS
I can pull it out and double check it but when i did it i wired it up exactly how my other one was wired.
I can pull it out and double check it but when i did it i wired it up exactly how my other one was wired.
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
I have it set on mono. I also tryed turing the filter on to LPF and off and that made no difference.
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From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
Try switching the RCA's & / or L & R channels off the AMP...
As long as wire is same, it could be one of the cannels on the amp..
Rafael
As long as wire is same, it could be one of the cannels on the amp..
Rafael
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Thread Starter
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Get this I began to take off 1 RCA cable and both speakers were still going with just 1 RCA cable hooked up and the one speaker was still doing the same thing. I then switched wires same thing Tried the different RCA jack on the AMP same thing. Could the amp be bad?
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From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
It's running mono... correct...??
Are the speakers hooked up to 1 channel running mono
or to left & right running mono?
If they are hooked up to left & right try switching them...
Also, check the gain on the side that is pumping the speaker up...
it's either the amp or speaker / wiring...
Raf
Are the speakers hooked up to 1 channel running mono
or to left & right running mono?
If they are hooked up to left & right try switching them...
Also, check the gain on the side that is pumping the speaker up...
it's either the amp or speaker / wiring...
Raf
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Its a 2 channel amp.
Right now it is running mono here is how i have it set up.
I have my left and right RCA wires going from the HU to the amp.
Then i have my left speaker hooked to the left side and right wired to the right side.
I tried adjusting the gain this weekend and it made no difference on that speaker.
When you say try switching them you mean swithc the wires that go to the sub from right to left to left to right correct?
Right now it is running mono here is how i have it set up.
I have my left and right RCA wires going from the HU to the amp.
Then i have my left speaker hooked to the left side and right wired to the right side.
I tried adjusting the gain this weekend and it made no difference on that speaker.
When you say try switching them you mean swithc the wires that go to the sub from right to left to left to right correct?
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From: Readsboro, VT
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Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by FAST RS
I have it set on mono. I also tryed turing the filter on to LPF and off and that made no difference.
I have it set on mono. I also tryed turing the filter on to LPF and off and that made no difference.
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Im not sure what you are asking but here is how i have the subs wired to the amp
The left channel is wired to the left sub the right channel is wired to the right sub. now how i have my DVC wired on the subs them selves that i cant remeber since i wired them a long time ago but i do remeber wireing them both the same on the sub i think i did + to + and - to - then ran the wire from the amp to the sub. In all honesty though i am not 100 percent sure how i wired the DVC on the subs to be 2 ohm i basicly just copied how they showd it in the manual.
I have 2 subs i think i left that part out.
The left channel is wired to the left sub the right channel is wired to the right sub. now how i have my DVC wired on the subs them selves that i cant remeber since i wired them a long time ago but i do remeber wireing them both the same on the sub i think i did + to + and - to - then ran the wire from the amp to the sub. In all honesty though i am not 100 percent sure how i wired the DVC on the subs to be 2 ohm i basicly just copied how they showd it in the manual.
I have 2 subs i think i left that part out.
What jim is asking is (assuming these are dual 4 ohm speakers) are you sure (which means take both speakers out and check them) to see for sure how you have the coils wired. If they are dual 4 ohm coils the you need to conect both positives to each other and both negetives to each other for each speaker. You say you think you thats how you have them, you need to know for sure to eleminate this as being a problem.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I'm asking for a couple reasons.
If he's got one sub with the 2 coils wired in parallel, and the other sub with them wired in series, the one in parallel will be getting 4x the power and will have much greater excursion. This situation will also result in both subs having a controlled excursion that's in line with the input signal... just one being greater than the other.
If both are wired the same way, and since he doesn't have the amp bridged, that can basically rule out the subs as the problem and point to the amp. If the subs have controlled excursion, with the amp running in a stereo configuration, it can be something as simple as mismatched gains, it could be a problem with the source (screwed up balance on the pre-outs), or it could be a bad amp or bad signal.
If the one sub has a wacky, wild excursion that doesn't go along with the music, and can't be heard, it means there's some sort of subsonic mess, which can come from various amp or head unit problems.
But, since he can't answer the questions I keep asking, I can only speculate.
If he's got one sub with the 2 coils wired in parallel, and the other sub with them wired in series, the one in parallel will be getting 4x the power and will have much greater excursion. This situation will also result in both subs having a controlled excursion that's in line with the input signal... just one being greater than the other.
If both are wired the same way, and since he doesn't have the amp bridged, that can basically rule out the subs as the problem and point to the amp. If the subs have controlled excursion, with the amp running in a stereo configuration, it can be something as simple as mismatched gains, it could be a problem with the source (screwed up balance on the pre-outs), or it could be a bad amp or bad signal.
If the one sub has a wacky, wild excursion that doesn't go along with the music, and can't be heard, it means there's some sort of subsonic mess, which can come from various amp or head unit problems.
But, since he can't answer the questions I keep asking, I can only speculate.
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
I will pull the subs tomorrow at my lunch break. I can rule out it being the head unit since I just put a new one in this weekend and with the old one it did the same thing. The amp only has 1 gain control on it.
Sorry i cant anwser the questions you are asking im trying my best its been so long since i have messed with my stereo i have forgotten allot.
Sorry i cant anwser the questions you are asking im trying my best its been so long since i have messed with my stereo i have forgotten allot.
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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FAST RS, why not bridge the amplifier?
depending on your voice coil configuration, this will elimate that horrible stereo problem.
hook up the positive of one sub the the L+ on the amp, and the negative of the other sub to R- on the amp, then just connect the subs with their remaining connections.
you can do this, assuming you have a bridgeable amp that is stable at 4ohm-bridged... also we are assuming you have the standard 2ohm speaker load, otherwise you have to do a bit more math.
depending on your voice coil configuration, this will elimate that horrible stereo problem.
hook up the positive of one sub the the L+ on the amp, and the negative of the other sub to R- on the amp, then just connect the subs with their remaining connections.
you can do this, assuming you have a bridgeable amp that is stable at 4ohm-bridged... also we are assuming you have the standard 2ohm speaker load, otherwise you have to do a bit more math.
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
I will look up the specs on my amp its an older style kenwood 600 watt amp.
What exactly does bridging do? I have heard the term many times but have no clue what it means.
What exactly does bridging do? I have heard the term many times but have no clue what it means.
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From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
Bridging... instead of 2 channels playing 300 watts each, 1 channel plays 600 watts... It basically combines 2 channels to make 1...
But if one channel is bad (possible the malfunctioning speaker) bridging it may still cause a problem...
But if one channel is bad (possible the malfunctioning speaker) bridging it may still cause a problem...
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Ok cool now i know what it means for some reason i thoght it ment combineing 2 amps to make 1 amp dont ask why.
Still gotta pull my speakers out and check them didnt get a chance at luch and i have class the rest of this week but as soon as i pull them out i will check the wireing and switch subs from left to right to see if its the sub or the amp.
I do remeber for the longest time the right sub did push allot more then the left i almsot want to say it did it with my old alpines but i can not remeber.
Still gotta pull my speakers out and check them didnt get a chance at luch and i have class the rest of this week but as soon as i pull them out i will check the wireing and switch subs from left to right to see if its the sub or the amp.
I do remeber for the longest time the right sub did push allot more then the left i almsot want to say it did it with my old alpines but i can not remeber.
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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I'd say that there's a 99% chance that it's bridgeable into a single 4ohm load.
and yes, he should find out where the problem is first, I was just suggesting it because running subs in stereo is a waste.
and yes, he should find out where the problem is first, I was just suggesting it because running subs in stereo is a waste.
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From: BC Canada
Car: 89 Firebird
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First disconnect your subs from your amp. Take both subs out of the box. Take them inside.
Measure each of their resistances to make sure you are getting the same for each sub. Just have them on a table or something sitting on the magnet, not on the cone.
if you get different resistances then remove your connections between the coils, measure each coil seperately. Just in case one of them is damaged, this should ensure that you have 2 good subs with 4 good coils.
Once you know the subs are good, connect the coils in parallel with eachother on each sub if you want a 2 ohm load per sub.. or in series on each sub for an 8 ohm load per sub.
If you want to be sure, double check the resistance on the completed connection for each sub.
Next, check the wires that go from the subs to the connecting cups on your sub box. Make sure you have no fried wires, bad connections etc.
If all checks out, make sure the wires and connections comming from your amp are all ok.
Once this is done, hook it all back up either stereo or mono (bridged) to your amp. See how things look there.
I hope this helps a little. I also hope I didn't step on anyone's feet.
Measure each of their resistances to make sure you are getting the same for each sub. Just have them on a table or something sitting on the magnet, not on the cone.
if you get different resistances then remove your connections between the coils, measure each coil seperately. Just in case one of them is damaged, this should ensure that you have 2 good subs with 4 good coils.
Once you know the subs are good, connect the coils in parallel with eachother on each sub if you want a 2 ohm load per sub.. or in series on each sub for an 8 ohm load per sub.
If you want to be sure, double check the resistance on the completed connection for each sub.
Next, check the wires that go from the subs to the connecting cups on your sub box. Make sure you have no fried wires, bad connections etc.
If all checks out, make sure the wires and connections comming from your amp are all ok.
Once this is done, hook it all back up either stereo or mono (bridged) to your amp. See how things look there.
I hope this helps a little. I also hope I didn't step on anyone's feet.
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From: Here and There, Kansas
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Hey, does your box have a divider in the middle? if not, then could be the one is blown or came unhooked (not moving much) and the other is not (movning correctly). Just another thought.
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Ya i have a divider in the middle of the box. I will pull it this weekend and check it out hopefuly ive been very busy gettin ready for the CA smog ****'s




